mvincentd

At the end of the day it's only going to affect colour, not texture...so you need to be happy with your concrete surface as it is, otherwise you'll need to factor in some level of grinding work.

Adowax is shuttering release agent, but i'd struggle to discern it particularly from any other wax (including ear)...so don't waste the money for just a little bit. Fosroc conbextra gp or maybe hf ....these are civil engineering grouts so local merchant unlikely to have. Its what my SE wanted me to use for a similar situation.

I saw a set of side hinged Tekentrup doors today, 2.5m wide brick to brick...losing65mm each side to frame so 2370 drive through. https://www.teckentrup.co.uk

In your situation as drawn Vijay you could put a wicket door into the lefthand garage door rather than bash a whole new opening to the side. Or if as you say its going to be one large garage door you could use a side slider like Hormann HST with a preset that just auto opens it a 'personnel width'. I got a quote of £5800 inc fitting &vat for a 4.6m wide by 2.2 high. Am struggling with these conundrums myself currently too. Hormann personnel garage doors are not secure by design, but their sectional doors are. The personnel doors aren't cheap compared to the sectional doors. However we plan to use the personnel door more often than our front door, treating the 1st quarter of the garage much like a porch. We have a 4.6m opening & I plan to put a 1m personnel door, a 0.6m 'decorative infill panel', then a 3m sectional door. My front door is a couple metres to the left and the opening is 1.6m which will be a 1m front door & a 0.6m 'decorative infill panel'. Trying to get an aesthetic match through front door, personnel door and garage door without breaking the bank. Hormann seems like sensible middle ground. BUT the personnel door isn't secure by design. I think it's possible to swap this to a Latham security door and ral colour match (some compromise to aesthetic matching but minimal as we are trying to keep everything very plain). Going this way would make the garage sufficiently secure that the adjoining door into the house wouldn't strictly need to be secure by design I believe? It would still have to be fd30 and I believe u-value 1.4 or better? A door that's all things....sbd fd30 u-1.4 seems to cause furrowed brows wherever I ask for one....to the point i'm thinking i've misunderstood my requirements. All in all i've caught myself out with some unexpected expense, not giving due consideration to all the implications of garage door, front and rear garage personnel doors, and adjoining house door....and aesthetic matching to nearby main front door.

In basemented sections I went for external insulation, dpm, reinforced concrete wall...that's it, a spot of clear sealer on the walls and i'm decorated. You could dot n dab plasterboard on if you prefer a more traditional aesthetic. Be sure to carefully detail all areas where external insulation has to transfer to cavity or internal.

Aluminium frames with PUR insulated cores that pass all the CWCT tests, and provide unified profiles with all your other windows, at Velfac prices; idealcombi Futura.

https://www.watco.co.uk/paint-and-sealers

Are they coated differently, ie foil or not.

How long do you think you'll need temporary cover? This was monumentally stressful for me all last winter. I started out thinking it was just a few weeks and so didn't put enough time and effort into the 'temporary' setup. I ended up using 800sqm of dpm repeatedly trying different solutions and reworking it. If you make a tent be sure to give it a good pitch so the weight of water...or snow..doesnt 'dish' the dpm into the framework and create individual swimming pools!

"If anyone has any suggestions for anything other than aluminium" Your architects renders suggest a 'poll-less' system of pure glass in which case this kind of thing; https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/barrier-sabco-aluminium-side-fix-2500mm-balustrade-rail-kit-15mm-glass-aluminium-cover-247278?vat=1&shopping=true&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIprqW3qao3QIVqbztCh3TzQS9EAYYBiABEgIVxfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds With no vertical poll to 'clash' with window frame colours the off-the-shelf aluminium or stainless colour might be ok.

Ace. Love the curved corners. Interested to know the structural detail of the roof?

Precisely the job I have to get a quote on tomorrow for my mother.......was this a recent price you are recalling? thanks

@vivienz Garry has been to mine and i've suggested he talk to you because the screw piles might turn out to be one of those early 'architects assumptions'...your journey through foundation systems might prove very relevant to him. Garry drop by and i'll lend you Housebuilders Bible, The self builders guide to project management, and give you a stack of Selfbuilder/Build It magazines.

....the machines were turned off at 11.45pm on mine when the batteries to the mountain bike head torches ran out....

If gone through the full grind process to fully polished I don't believe they need any sealer. Powerfloats are hard to use a sealer on without defeating the object of the powerfloat and roughing the surface. Mine is also waterproof concrete so I have to use a topical (not penetrating) sealer. Watco do a powerfloat sealer that doesn't require any surface roughening. Absolutely......i'm experimenting for the hell of it but am actually happy already with the house showing the scars of its difficult birth....thats a personal aesthetic though and @MikeSharp01 might not have it in his minds eye, hence I was detailing my experiments more in the hope they might help him....i'm speculating his powerfloat has 'suffered' some of the same characteristics. Yes, probably a lot of parameters to add up to a great result..and a spot of luck also in the mix!

For mbc purposes I see no reason why the highest point of scaffolding would be higher than what they're building. The roof membrane installers should have a high hand rail...but given its single storey and not exactly urban they'd probably 'overlook' it, especially if you had air bags/crash mats.

My powerfloat had some 'failed' areas and I experimented with grinding those smooth.....however the moment a diamond grinder goes on the surface it creates a distinct edge....which i've yet to succeed in feathering off to the powerfloat. I also hired a slow spinning machine with 5 carborundum blocks on it...this was quite gentle so minimally affected the powerfloat while doing fairly well at smoothing the 'failed' areas. However theres typically unevenness at the transition area and it struggles with this, ultimately failing to feather. I'm still experimenting. @jack I love your result...fairly seamless transitions in and out of exposed aggregate....I just cant find the machine with the right balance of oomph/finesse. Assuming by 'polish' you mean powerfloat,....what are the bad bits like? I found the rough areas that didn't float well to be much softer and so responsive even to a p40 grade sanding disk on a 4" random orbital sander...it's just the bloody transition that I cant feather. Agreed, i've not been able to find examples of a grind feathering back into a powerfloat. Also wherever i've tried hiring concrete grinders its as if they know nothing of the theory of working through the grit grades....machines come with whatever disk is on it.

I have my fingers crossed for your powerfloat but think they're gonna need floodlights!

...if youre not using the smaller flexi ducting for mvhr remember to put the rigid stuff in simultaneous to the posi's or you'll be cutting lots of very short lengths later on!

As posi joists are a bespoke engineered solution i'd have assumed your posi supplier would be specifying and supplying the hangers as part of the package. Don't their drawings spec the hangers, and include a disclaimer against adapting/modifying without consultation.

If trimming is restricted to one consistent end only then the block line will not alter.

Imagine a blockwork inner leaf broken by a steel goalpost structure surrounding the opening for sliding doors. So mines made a tad awkward by faceted wall faces but it still demonstrates.....top pic shows combination of pozi bearing onto blockwork and alongside pozi in hangers on timber packer in the steel. (Just for fun add a steel coming off the goalpost parallel with poi's). The different bearing approach has altered the length of pozi and therefore shifted the webs. You then get picture 2 for your mvhr! For me this was my best positional option for the hole....nobody could calculate it in advance of placing the pozi's, ruling out a neat plasma cut circle in factory so it came down to an angle grinder in-situ. Picture 3 shows another instance of different build methods meeting causing a change in pozi hanging method (rc wall continued as blockwork).

Crendon did the measuring themselves on mine but it didnt prove entirely trustworthy so i'm glad i went for trimmable ends. Try to make all trims from the same end so your webs remain in line. On that note also try to discourage them from introducing a range of supporting methods, as that will also throw off the webs and potentially close the continuous service channels that are such a benefit.

i'm of the belief that regarding sound there's little between 2 or 3g....its the distance between the panes that affect sound??

When my first quote came in at £52k for vcl, insulation, membrane, trim...I spent 3 months procuring a more rational quote elsewhere for £32k.....for exactly the same product. In between I got quotes for numerous alternative solutions...none of them bettered the £32k i'm paying for my preferred option. I had a reason for distinctly preferring one particular solution but i'd say if your project doesn't have any specific foibles/requirements just go with whatever fully guaranteed system is being offered by a roof co' that you gel with. Every horror story about one system can be matched with stories about another. By 'fully guaranteed system' I mean that a roofer will use his preferred product and be 'ticketed' to install it, and the product will have a specification written (by the producer) for its installation onto your project...and they'll inspect the work your roofer does with their product on your project before issuing the guarantee. Note that if you then plan to do the green roof bit yourself there may be expectations regarding what your green layers are, in order to maintain the guarantee.