mvincentd

I did the Nudura course and that left me with the impression you could apply direct but it was very important to do a very fastidious job of roughing up (Cant recall technical term) the surface.

I have to for planning, and want to anyway. They are not ‘fit and forget’ so if you’re not keen on gardening I’d suggest not burdening yourself. That said, they aren’t necessarily too demanding on maintenance.....depending on what look you want. Sedum can look pretty dead in winter......people think it’ll give constant year round green appearance. Wildflower won’t offer much in winter. Meadowgrass is pretty good, but needs more growing medium depth....means more roof build up, more weight... We want a roughty toughty mess so wont worry about weeds, but if you wanted well manicured you’ll end up weeding just like a garden. You’ll half run-off so reconsider any rainwater harvesting ideas. Ballpark £7k for my 150sqm flat roof....but that’s the ‘green’ element, materials only....the roof also had to be engineered for the weight and the membrane had to be specific. There’s an ‘approved’ approach to creating a green roof which you’ll need to follow if you want any waterproofing guarantees from your roofer....this makes it difficult to diy a cheap alternative.

https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/insulating-the-outside-walls/

I burned half of mine today.....cut in Feb and now so dry it took nothing to get it started. The dodgiest bit is adding piles of leaves once it’s burning well.....they tend to get taken by the updraft and if they’ve managed to catch light that’s not ideal. Im now bagging the leaves and let them compost. Be careful...I’ve a lot less hair on my face after 4 hours of burning today, but feel lucky to still have eyelids.....wind changes direction fast!

Just check ‘he’ hasn’t already included in his quote to flash this .... if he’s looked at the job to quote you already i imagine either he’s taking responsibility for it or he’ll have looked you in the eye and made you aware of what you’d need to provide him so he can achieve a waterproof roof .

Basement?.......so the slab/wall junction is underground and earth retaining?.............you're too late for retarder/pressurewash but if it was my basement i'd want both a scabbled surface to key to and a waterbar so i'd find a way to create it. You're aiming to end up with a monolithic structure, not something with a weak seam exactly where water is likely to be.

Idealcombi quoting 8 weeks usually but add 3 right now due to summer shut down.

I told Protek which bc I was using and said I wanted them to tie with them for the inspections.....Protek at the time didnt have a partner bc all the near my build so they were happy to forge a new relationship. You being in London might not have that luck as they'll already have a few bc partners. My bc wouldn't extend to london so no use to you, but fyi i'm paying a pretty nominal sum extra to them to cover admin of passing reports to Protek...cant remember but £300ish.

Protek are letting my building control (private) do the inspections AND letting them be the judge of what inspections are needed......resulting in no additional burden over standard bc anyway.

Yes relaxed......another annoyance with my architects who imposed it on my build unnecessarily.

We had a holiday let which was remote to us and so at the end of each guest stay we'd send a cleaner in to prep it ready for next guests. 80% of guests would fiddle with controls to the extent that the system would not then work according to the instructions we provided.....and the cleaner would not always be able to fathom how to get everything reset. Keep it simple.

My Protek structural warranty a year ago cost £1500 including inspections....thats for a £480k build cost 240sqm complicated underground flat green roof house in a dorset village. We recently investigated some interim financing via both mortgage and development finance....we didnt follow through on this so I cant be conclusive but it didnt seem Protek were a problem for any of the financiers.

..make sense as the brutality of the pour could i guess dislodge it. If that co' doesn't want to sell you it try Resapol http://resapol.com

Do you mean like Sikaswel, as these people sell: http://www.arconsupplies.co.uk/waterproofing/swellable-waterbars Did you drop a baton in the slab to shutter a trench for it to sit in, and use retarder on the slab where your walls will cast onto? About half way down this blog post you’ll see what I mean (as applied to walls) http://2gomadindorset.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/wall-pour-strike-eat-sleep-repeat.html

I translated this comment from someone posting on their Facebook page.......oh well! The investment does not pay itself in the lifetime of the users. Waste of time and money, do the math. Let's start with the simplest ones: 9 Liters of loss per bath = 0.005 € (considering an average tariff of 0.56 € / m3 (with VAT at 6%) and not taking into account the increase in average annual inflation figures). Launch price = € 330 = 66000 baths 66000 baths, considering one per day (365) = 180 years 180 years old, even if the family was made up of 4 elements, everyone took a shower every day, it would take 45 years to pay the € 330 of the initial investment at launch price. Now think about how many baths would be needed to pay the investment at the market price close to € 700 ?! As no regular household remains cohesive for 45 years (parents and children) and the equipment itself will degrade long before reaching this level, it is considered to be useless and dysfunctional equipment. Water saving could be a good reason for the acquisition, but other methods of discipline can be taken with greater gains for the environment, economy and people, without having to spend a single €. The very ecological footprint of the production and distribution of this equipment removes any merit in relation to the supposed function. Final calculation according to the title of the article: "Hoterway: hot water from the first second, or how to save MIL liters per year", which is the same as saying, save € 0.56 per year (1000L = 1m3), based on this information makes even worse the initial calculations that even being very optimistic, since it now takes 147 years to pay the € 330 investment, this in a family of 4 elements, each having the average life expectancy of 76 years and canceling the variable disintegration of the family after the emancipation of the younger members. In short, a lousy investment for either party, unless it's to be a long-term investment up to the 8th generation.

Some prices on their kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1376341462/hoterway-hot-shower-from-the-first-second

It’s the English translated version of a Portuguese website, apparently a kickstarter funded product originally.....haven’t found any pricing or if they meet any uk regs that are relevant to it. If sensibly priced though, a decent idea I thought.

While looking for sunamp info i've stumbled on this; https://heaboo.com/en/hoterway-premium/ Anyone know anything of them??

Think Crittal struggles to meet new build requirements.....more for renovations. idealcombi Futura+ have thin profile and seem amongst the most competitive/decent quality/high performance

Presume your neighbours house or other buildings are some distance from same boundary? My bldg regs just approved this easy to apply stuff for any wood on my ‘tight to boundary’ wall (circa 600mm) (.....wood within 1metre must be fire treated): http://www.fireproofspray.co.uk/flametect-c-wd-for-wood-clear-flame-retardant-68-p.asp

Yes, i've done it with both gas and elec. One note...having nicely prepped a boundary wall with 2 recesses for gas and elec' meter boxes, i then discover i'm not allowed to put anything else in the elec' meter box (this has been discussed here before) but also must have a switched fuse between meter and house due to distance (I THINK thats a requirement after 5 metres). So i had to wedge a 3rd box alongside for that switched fuse and double socket for builders supply.

Remember Massa going upside down spectacularly in his Williams (I guess 3 or so years ago)....the roll hoop was 3d.

...i'm too puny to spend more than 5 minutes on a Kango and not be shaken to dust myself. Don't underestimate the task if they fail to spread it thin....breaking 6" is a bit different to breaking 2"...i watched a tough labourer sweat over 1/2 cube for several hours.

Not a crazy option though. I had 4 pumps and 4 dumps on my build, of which 3 dumped with little regard for instructions.....they’re just intent on getting cleaned and home at that stage in the day. If you can’t spread it around thinly you’ll easily spend £100/m3 hiring a man and kango to bust it up.

Sorry but i'd suggest this might be risky advice unless the pipes are sitting in a castellated tray or similar which protects them. Triassic says he's..... .....so chances are they're tied to mesh. In this case they can be subject to quite a point load sandwiched between the mesh and a workers wellie while he stomps blind through concrete. Without pressure in the pipes they can crimp (and restrict flow) easily enough.