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I normally fit all the plasterboard edge. beads around the skirts and openings Making surer to set the with a lazer regardless of floor levels Then simply cut a gauge the size of your gap and skirting and use this when you are tiling You have to do a bit of self levering prior to tiling

No you are fine to put the heating on The problems we have is empty cold buildings goin from 10 to 25 Once the tiles are laid and grouted For 24 hour Put the heating on set at 16 max Then add a degree per week

I used it on my fibreglass roof Brilliant stuff From memory the 18 layer foil is equal to about 300 mil of rock wool

We had exactly the same dilemma when we started our build With the bird season aproaching we needed to feel 25 ten mtr trees and some hedging Planners and the cil chap we’re fine Telling is that cutting trees down didn’t constitute a start Heavey machinery breaking ground was the example I asked if removing the slates off a building we needed to demolish would be a breech The reply I recieved Was no as long as the outer walls are left standing there won’t be a problem

I’m quoting for large jobs 15 months in advance As Dave pointed out there is a big difference between a quote and a estimate Most of my materials come via Gysum So I know when there is a price increase and how much and factor it in You are right to request a breakdown of any quote I’m not a big fan of the online estimators But perhaps I’m set in my ways With all the Brexit uncertainty it is difficult to product material rises But any quote should be firm Shen it comes to labour I would sit down with the third chap Seperate his laboure cost and ask him to breakdown his material quote including his 10% supply charge and agree to stand material price increases Then everyone knows exactly where they stand Also it is worth getting everything down on paper There will be some extras It’s difficult to estimate how deep foundation will go Propblems with drains etc There nothing worse than feeling like your being cheated for you or your builder

Warm up will supply and design Pretty easy to deal with also

You might be right I’ve been laying screed since I was sixteen never covered any screed Perhaps you can on a tiny bit like yours It would be very difficult to cover a 100 mtrs plus laid in a day

It looks to me like it has been laid high Covering a screed is ant necessary There definitely should have been an exspansion joint between the two floors The flexible plastic type that you simply cut back when the screed has set if the screeders coming back Its a good start offer to pay for the self leveler If he sorts it out He should have it perfect in an hour

Your far less likely to have problems with the builder fitting the kitchen Than Joe blogs via the kitchen seller Who is under pressure to finish in a day Hope all goes well

To true if your employing a joiner for your build Who has good attention to detail Get the kitchen supply only and ask him to fit Though Wickes and wren are not keen on supply only we called in Wickes over Christmas to match two replacement units to one of our rentals We were told that they couldn’t give prices for indidual units Though there was a sign stating 50% of fitting I asked if the fitters where on half money for January

Problem with that is that they all say we have our own fitters But the reality is that they use whoever is available and pay a fraction of what you are being charged

I agree Ian There are some really good fitters out there But it is pot luck who you get I fitted ours myself as I thought it was a lot of money to spend to have it messed up Our last kitchen I fitted about seven years ago It cost 5k from BQ My wife assembled all the units and it looks as good today as when it was fitted Fitting and more important the finishing are everything

Wren arnt Great But in saying that we spent £18000 on a German kitchen and quarts worktops Supply only While the kitchen looks great several items arrived damaged four weeks for replacements to arrive from Germany Somthing worth considering I’ve fitted quite a few Howden kitchens Very rate to have anything missing and most things are stock items Though there sales technique for a one off requires a bit of patience

I was in a glass lift in a very smart hotel in Dortmund The lift was packed with German businessmen and me It stoped between floors and there was that Elephant in the room moment I learned forward looked down at the logo and Said in my best German Ah made in the U.K. It certainly broke the ice

Doesn’t it make you sick how good the Germans are at everything

I use tons of adhesive each year Always flexible Same with the groute

PVA has had its day Every few years we have problems with soundblock boards Sucking in like blotting paper SBR is the only sealer that can cope Weather it’s tiles or render Its all about killing the suction on the surface To stop your adhesive or plaster drying to quickly A couple of caps full in each tile adhesive mix will also help

I’ve used composite cladding on a couple of property’s about five years ago Really good to use Very simalar to the oak slay tiles in apperience I sometimes pass there and it looks a slick as the day it was installed if was quite new on the market back then From memory I think it was called Teko wood or simalar I can’t remember the actual cost as it was an exstra on a much larger job The client was impressed with the look

SBR is as good as a anything and much cheaper If we used the recommended primers We would have no room for our tools Most are pretty good But you can’t go wrong with SBR We normally mix it at 3-1 But you must let it dry completely before use

I agree most sites will guarantee Brickies 200 per day Even in winter 350 per day is not unual In good weather A good plasterer tiler Framer can earn 300 per day right through the year and more The difference between site guys and the my builder guys is enormous OST of the Brickies I know don’t have a labourer The motor is.vertually always cylo and lifted onto the scaffold with a Telehandler Along with bricks and blocks Though a CSCS card is a must Yiu won’t get past the front gate without one Simply route your City and Guilds out and apply to take the test

If someone climbs over your fence and falls down a hole You are liable You must have liability insurance that covers you If the insurance company seems that you have not taken adiquate precorsion Ie a low fence They won’t pay out and you could be procecuted The high fencing that you see around all building sites Are compulsory Buildzone Protec etc will all do a basic liability insurance that will give you piece at mind Mot cheap But the first thing on your list before breaking ground Then a big fence ?

You best using the Heras type mesh fencing It’s very Quik and easy to erect And easy to move on a daily basis for delivery’s and such Security is one reason But the main reason is H&S a physical barrier to stop anyone wandering on You really need to enclose the entire site If there’s not a fence in place

Your feet need to be planted firmly when core drilling Even above a ground floor window You neeed to put a secure deck up My advise would be to get the bathroom wastes and fans done while the scaffold is still in place If you are rendering You can get everything done from the inside prior to rendering It always makes me laugh when we visit the build shows and they are selling the adjustable ladders Bbbb or whatever aproved It is so unusual to see a step ladder onsite now As someone has already stated Access only I can still rember roofs on sites being felted and tiled without any scaffolding Just one piece pile ladders Scarey We all need to be careful As one slip could end our selfbuild

Does anyone know if the vat on our stove and hearth will be claimable It is shown on the Origenal house drawings

You don’t need to tank unlesss it’s a wet room You can use a thin layer of flexible adhesive prior to put your hardy down if the floor is a bit uneven But bands of baker glue will be quiker and.Better Two tube per floor Which ever you decide you will need to screw the backer down every 150 Before tilling you will need to seal the backer with a 3-1 mix of SBR Don’t use unibond or simalar Your floor should be done after the walls and toilet and sink left out till all is complete Hope this helps