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The conditions should be nowhere near as damp as a cellar Ive damp proofed barns like yours with a membrane and no drain Remember to fill each hole drilled with sealer before knocking in the plug Also your plugs should be set out with the dot and dab in mind 300 apart vertical 600 across Good luck

Sounds like a plan This is a cellar I did last summer Similar to to your plan With a perimeter drain around the edge We use a 50 mil I stud stood 15 mil off the walls

We have recently sealed some lifts before putting a ceiling in below Hears a couple of pictures We put a band of acoustic sealer around the perimeter and trapped the membrane with 35 mil angle shot fired to the peeling and block work

I think most on here go online Google or YouTube

Plus one with Rus You can’t fill and joint onto timber You could tape and joint Abito PB Just as solid as MDF You can fix directly to it like timber and a bit cheaper than MDF Or you could router a chamfer on the MDF edges to give you a nicer looking finish It all depends on what you are trying to achieve not using PB

Yes no problem Yes you would apply the HP12 directly to the EPS About 3 mil thick Then press the fibre mesh on to the base coat Run a trowel I’ve it then give it a light skim coat of HP12 ( Backing coat) Then after about an hour give it a ver light scratch You can apply a 10-15 top coat any time after 24 hours Hope this helps

I always use HP 12 Its a bit more Water resistant

If your asking can you render under the dpc onto the eps The answer is yes I am often asked to do this I normally say put stones or shingle against the render Or if you decide to flag run dpc against the render to flag to leaving about 10 mil sticking up

Ah I see the membrane must be above dpc then ? No gas membrane on ours

I’m not a fan of trays around the bottom of a building Do you really need a tray at DPC level ? Or was it included by the Architect like ours I decided not to have a perimeter tray for the reason that you have highlighted

I would check that with highways We ended up paving the whole 450m2 drive But originally the plan was for a tarmac strip like yours and gravel for the rest We contacted Highways and they stated any hard surface would be fine Cobbles pavers etc As long as it wasn’t loose

I think the price would dictate why I’m never asked to price site work at double what I pay for K

Did I really say I’ve never heard of Johnson’s ?

I’ve never come across Johnston K are the market leader by far I’ve used K on a weekly basis for over 20 years Cem rend before that The thing most like is batch matches are good There are loads of renders that guarantee no cracking Like most guarantees the onus is on the installer So pick a good one that will quickly sort out any minor problems We Give a five year no argument Guarantee

I run a render business K rend produce a variety of colours and finishes Most are virtually 0 maintenance If you use a reputable contractor By that I mean a contractor that has jobs local to you That is happy to show you round Not the guy that has skimmed your house and does a bit of render every now and then

Rules have recently changed While your Architect perhaps isn’t an expert on drains He should be up to date with current regs Your other option is to contact your local authority

70 is very high Special self builder rate

A little bit has gone on most things I’d check her prices Shes about double what the diy stores are charging

100 mil acoustic will greatly reduce noise

Part of my job is supply and fitting fire protection While TF hotels Student accommodation is really good With fire stops at every junction Smoke shafts running the full height of the building The fire protection is poor on TF houses While most work towards high airtightness Fire protection isn’t minimal Whiles ours is brick built I still installed fire baffles in all ceiling lights and the sockets that are in the few studs It doesn’t matter how many layers of plasterboards there are if there are sockets and switches fixed to a timber pattress

This one loo is on one of our sites Used by around 30 men You definitely wouldn’t want to do number 2s in this Especially after six hot days

I worked on a shop conversion a couple of years back I went down to the basement where the site manager and worker where having there lunch Asked for the loo and the site manager told me there was an open six inch drain and could I push the board back over 5 minutes later I popped my head around the door and asked if there was any toilet paper There was a five second pause before everyone laughed Very tight site Most where directed to Sainsbury’s Ten minutes walk away

If you are going for a sand and cement it should be 75 mil average 20 ton will cover 150m2 Pumped concrete will be 50 mil and metred So you will pay for what you use

I use Fluteplas We cut a sheet into 200 mil strip Just cut them off flush and leave 75 mil in the screed Once the screed has set

Yes exactly like that We mainly use them for shadow gaps and where a board butts up agains an ally frame Tap onto the cut edge of the board and staple the webbing every 200