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Jon H

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About Jon H

  • Birthday 02/16/1966

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    Cornwall

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  1. thanks again - i am replacing the floorboards so can do whatever seems best I assume that i need to stop moisture getting from warm room down into the cold ceiling in and below the cellulose to condense, so i want to try to vapour seal above the cellulose is that correct ?? What about from below up plasterboard then cellulose then taped osb sheets then my nice reclaimed floorboards above this (it will be very difficult to seal the reclaimed floorboards) all sealed at the wall as best i can
  2. I just had another thought if a put 50mm wood board on the rafters behind the truss and apply a thicker insulating lime render - the local product here has a good U value for 50mm - and really work this into the truss with a mesh on the side of the truss stapled to struss and board would this provide a good enough air seal this would then be continuous iwth the render on the walls = the ridge might be difficult as the top of the trusses extend onto the rafter space but i could create a little horizontal ceiling at this height
  3. Thanks for the input that is amazingly helpful and I understand the principle i think there are a couple of points - if i don't conterbatten the rafters (this was a plan to create a bigger air space to improve ventilation behind the insulation and if i used wool would stop the wool from blocking the space ) i could get at least one layer of wood board behind the truss running completely across i think there is a 75mm gap between rafter and truss - the thickness of the purlins - i know 50mm of board does not have a great U value but might be a compromise i guess as it would avoid the need to make a good seal with the truss, - you mentioned ventilation for the workshop do you mean a PIV system i guess through the wall to try to reduce moisture in the workshop? This is the second floor of the barn the ground floor is further workshop/storage space- the floor of this room is therefore wooden with joists - i plan to put a ceiling in the ground floor and fill the space between floorboards and ceiling with loose fill cellulose as the ground floor wont all be heated.
  4. Hi thanks for your input I am planning to glaze the slit windows just single pane near the external surface with oak frame and getting double glazed aluminium windows and doors for the rest - i plan to use the space for workshop and heat it, so was keen to get some insulation in the roof, I guess i was hoping that the eaves ventilation and ridge vent would allow for ventilation up between the rafters behind the insulation to keep them dry and whilst a little bit of moisture will come through the lime/woood/wool roof into this space without a VCL it should also pass the other way out - the room should have a generally dry atmosphere no water to the building so just me breathing out moisture and i wont be in there that often, do people think i should use a VCL ??
  5. Hi i'm doing up this old barn, to be kept as a workshop so no specific building regs applicable as not a habitable building My plan is to use an insulating lime render for the walls, but i was wondering about the roof we had to put new felt on, so the traditional slate roof has been taken off new felt applied (bitumen for the bats) and eave and ridge vents system included. I plan to keep the original scissor trusses but want to insulate at the rafters. The rafters are 50mm x 50mm the purlins 100x100 i only want to use a maximum of 100mm insulation as i want to leave the trusses completely exposed. My original plan was to counterbatten with 25mm battons to keep a reasonable gap for ventilation of the rafter then use 50mm wool and a 25mm wood fibre board and then lime render/plaster - so no vapour layer as i wanted it all to be able to breath a bit. However a few people i have spoken to seem surprised I'm not using celotex 100mm strait onto the rafters and then VCL and plasterboard. I guess with a barn of this age i was concerned that using modern plastic products seemed wrong and the principal of using breathable materials important. - Would value some views on the pros and cons of these
  6. So we have about 100+ cases 7 full large box files for each would take longer than building the building and less fun. also the beauty of sips building is once we can shred all these in 5-10 years then we can then cut a few holds for windows/doors and convert it into a garden room gym etc is in the top corner of the plot has great views. I guess it might be a building asset and will need to pay VAT back or something at this point.
  7. Thanks for a very quick response very helpful - the files are currently stored in a barn with big high security locks and solid stone walls with no openings good security and she is indeed registered with ICO and this is compliant, we did have the files stored before externally at a unit but now we are in the middle of nowhere in Cornwall there is nothing locally she often needs to refer to the records as cases progress so needs access. the new store will not have any windows just some ventilation and made from SIPS panels with wooden cladding and a strong door and security locks and thus will meet the ICO guidance - she has special bespoke insurance for the records as you are correct not covered by our house insurance. Increasingly the data is electronic but a lot of NHS records are still paper only sadly particularly the hospital records
  8. Hi I have tried to find a post that deals with this but failed so sorry if ive missed this, My wife works from home doing medical legal reports (she is a GP) after every report she has to store her files for 10 yrs or so by law, these are building up alarmingly so my plan is to build a store in our garden solely for this purpose (we have got advice from planning that its a permitted development) i'm going to do this myself as a SIPS garden room type project. My wife is VAT registered for her work and i wondered what the VAT position is for this do i buy the materials and claim the VAT as we do for paper and toner etc or can i buy material with no VAT and i guess the building costs are legitimate expenses and can i claim for my time as DIY builder ?? - i realise I maybe should be posting this on a tax forum maybe but wondered if anyone had experience of this
  9. Wow that looks a great job - do you think the gravel/sand/membrane/insulation/slab idea will work not seen that before ?
  10. Hi - my first post - I have spent most of my like as a keen DIYer refurbishing and extending a couple of houses in the past. We are just about to buy a farmhouse which has 2 separate 2 storey stone barns on site one which has been converted to garage and flat and is okish and the other not touched although in good state with intact roof and generally dry inside few cracks in the walls but nothing thought to be too serious. We are not planning to get planning or formally convert this barn the top floor is one open plan room with a nice wooden roof and slates - we will just repair the walls repoint etc and repair the roof as required and use as a store or party or play area for extended family. The ground floor however has a good sized room with solid concrete floor this is not flat but slopes down to a central drain and drains to an external soakaway the barn has animal stalls in it and i guess the floor was designed to be easy to wash the stalls down for mucking out etc. I would like to convert this room to a dry warm machine workshop for a lathe and milling machine and other machine tools. To do this i need to create a flat dry insulated concrete floor and dry walls. The stone walls appear dry at present but have clearly been wet in the past and as the barn is half in the hill the outside ground level is half way up these walls as the back and one side so water will presumably easily penetrate through the wall from the ground on the other side. So i was thinking i need to somehow dry line or tank this room. After doing some research i wondered if it would work to put a studded cavity type system and utilise the existing drain in the centre of the floor. So i would line the walls with a studded membrane and plastic plugs I would then level the floor with simple gravel and a sand blind and then run the same membrane on top of the gravel this would allow water coming through the walls to trickle down behind the membrane into the gravel and find its way out through the gravel to the drain in the existing floor. I would then line the walls with insulation and plywood cover maybe even sips and then some insulation on the membrane on the floor and a new floor slab layed on top of this with some kind of sealed acces through to the drain to rod it if required. I have created a section plan below to explain this. Any views gratefully received.
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