Hobbiniho

wow that is absolutely horrific, having completed lots of adaptations for the local council i always tried my best to get the job completed quickly and always left a good job, as there was always someone that was wanting to get home, i hope for all involved that the council take action against the contractor and get that redone quickly

i kind of agree with what has been said although if you are just marking out for strip foundations then being a few mm out wont matter, what you need to do is go to the architect and ask for a proper setting out drawing with diagonal sizes written and it must be from known points, drawing that i have used in the past have all the sizes and diagonals for the outside of the blockwork underbuilding (suspended timber floor). that might explain the reason the sizes appear to start in the wall as it ignores the external cladding?

if you are looking for a info on timber frame then search for TRADA, they have a book called timber frame construction, you can also find lots of free info online showing typical details etc although these should be specified by your structural engineer, the timber frame for a square box with attic trusses is very simple, but if you start adding split levels, massive glazed walls and "architectural features" it starts getting a bit more complicated and will need to be spec'd correctly

yeh 5-6mm is about right it is usually dictated by the hinge side, you dont want the hinges rubbing on it

it should list a "deltaT" usually 50 or 60 i.e the flow temperature is 50 or 60 degrees c above room temp, what type of heating system do you have? i presume you have something with a low flow temperature because you mention UFH, it is possible to use a correction factor to calculate the output at your selected flow temperature

it also depends on what blade you have fitted generally hand held circular saws or "ripsnorters" as they are called here has a "rip" blade which has fewer teeth than a "cross cut" the clue is in the name, the "rip" saw blade rips bits of wood out (kinda like a chisel) as can be seen in your photo, whearas the cross cut blade cuts the wood, the angle and shape of the teeth is also different between the blades and generally the cross cut has loads more teeth, the more teeth the cleaner and sharper the cut generally, i suspect you have a rip blade fitted hence the poor cut, nicking a nail or two and damaging/ blunting it wont be helping any either

using the numbers you have posted and using a bulb tariff of SC 20.44p and 14.543p per KWH which is what i am on having recently switched from SSE to bulb, and a bit of fag packet maths and extrapolation, not counting seasonal variations on usage you will save £237.75 per year by just switching away from SSE to bulb that is a saving of 65p a day before you even look at changing any usage

you could use mdf and take a chamfer off all the edges giving a "v" at the joint, its a nice easy thing to do and looks ok if you plan out the joints carefully. I can remember doing this in a local powerstation because the old plasterboard walls and celing were cracking because of the massive amount of vibrations, we went back a few months later to do other work and someone had filled all the joints, most of the filler had cracked and fallen out

can you not just plaster it square into the window? will leave a nice simple clean line. there is also nothing stopping you fitting timber ingoes and facings, i have also seen mdf with a pencil round fitted that protrudes out past the plasterboard by about 5-10mm then the wall is just plastered upto the back of it, how is the rest of the house finished? might look weird to have this different

you will need something to create a "drip" otherwise all the water running down the cladding will just run down the window below

the way that we do it up here is to completely plasterboard all the long walls in 1 continuous run, these are usually ones along corridors etc then plasterboard the smaller ones, hopefully this picture will make it easier to understand, you have the benefit of using fewer studs edit: drawing is obviously not to scale

i am having much the same problem with the property i am refurbing except i live on an island with only 4 MCS installers and i cannot get any of them to quote as they are more interested in doing new builds, i have had to go to neighbouring orkney which has 6 MCS installers and looks more promising but not got the quote yet, the interest free loan coupled with the RHI payments means that my system should pay for itself

generally internal partitions go up after the ceiling is finished, so you would fit your underboarding, brandering @400 centres including dwangs to catch partitions, plasterboard ceiling then erect your partitions the only partitions that should attach directly to the structure are structural ones which should already be fitted, there is no point in adding 80mm insulation and then cut massive holes out of it for all your partitions as you are just adding lots of cold bridges

yeh i wondered about the cost spiraling aswell but the architect was very keen to build a house in shetland as the "self build" market is pretty much the only way that houses are built up here, in the end the price jumped up by about 20k in the 6 months the planning took and my sister had to walk away having only spent lots of her time and the cost of the planning application, i think thee architect was just expecting her to stump up another 20k on an already expensive house

my sister had a house designed by danwood and they were happy to change lots of things for her, including adding a porch and making the house bigger to meet crofter grant sizes for rooms, what they werent good for was sticking to the budget or giving her the correct information about the process which resulted in my sister not being able to proceed with the build due to increased costs after the 6 month planning process which was blamed on brexit

the tracks are only held up by a couple of "L" brackets, the door can be fitted then when plasterboarding is done the tracks can be propped up with wood and the "L" brackets removed and then reinstated after the plasterboarding is completed

i agree with every one else, the pitches for the roof have to match i would also be making it as high as possible leaving maybe a 100-150mm gap between, the angle of the roof will have no bearing on the floor space

ok thanks guys, im at work so its windows 10 got it sorted now cheers, just have to figure out the u values now

when i right click on it and click rename it doesnt show .txt it just highlights the name

iv downloaded your heat calculator but im confused as to how i go about renaming it, if i just right click on it and click rename it just leaves it as a text file

looks like you (your installer) need to follow the MCS planning standards, which basically does the noise calculation to decide if its permitted development or not MCS planning standards can be found here https://www.microgenerationcertification.org/images/MCS_020_Planning_Standards_Issue_1.2.pdf i am currently waiting for quotes to install an ASHP to a property that i am refurbishing although no measurements were taken of how far away the neighbours are but there is an extension and a nissen hut between my ASHP location and the neighbours

just to add to this topic, quite a lot of guys local to me use mapress fittings for copper/ stainless and generally speaking hep2o is used elsewhere. I’ve used hep2o and never had any failures.

generally they are fitted directly to the structure page 39 of this technical guidance show fitting options dependant on what size of door/ track system you have ordered https://www.garagedoorsonline.co.uk/download/Hormann Sectional Technical Manual.pdf if you batten/plasterboard/skim then fit your door you will have plasterboard in contact with the render or you will have to board the "ingo" with cement board etc before plastering, do you have a drawing of the make up of the exterior walls?

is it a sectional door or a roller shutter?

ok i am not sure what make he is proposing, i have had a look at the dimplex ones and they look quite nice also found the mitsubishi ones and they just look like storage heaters ?