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Paul84

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  1. Hi all. What do you all think of an alternative to my roof design. I'm doing a rear single storey extension across the back of my house, the picture below is an existing extension with the double Roman tiles on, since the pitch is higher than my new extension this is the current situation in the picture. The 8x2 you can see horizontal is the wall plate on the house. The plan has me repitching this side roof so it is up and over. Is there anything else I can do to save the time and money.. another pic to follow.
  2. It's not built ProDave, the pitch is already struggling without lowering the rafters. I've got Redland tiles which can go to 17degrees. Don't know what you mean by vapour or airtight layer, the roof will have the membrane fitted obviously, I was wanting to put a service layer in to fit the led downlights if that's what you mean.
  3. Hi all, I've read a few posts on the vaulted ceiling insulation, notably a one on the first page about large vaulted ceiling. It got me thinking about the best methods for my roof as looking at the drawing it looks minimal for insulation. It's a 4m x 8m room with 4.5m bi-folds on the outside wall and 4 standard veluxs in the ceiling. It's going to be the main area of the house and I'm now thinking I need to pay more attention to roof structure. The rafters are actually 50 x 200 with 400cc and I'm putting double Romans on the outside. What's your thoughts people.
  4. Hey, Marley double Roman tiles are planned, I've got the Marley rep looking at my plans this week to give me a spec list. Redland also do a double Roman which goes to 20degrees. So plenty choice. Guess the underlay doesn't really matter then. Thickest for cheapest.
  5. Hi people, What is the better choice here, Danelaw underlay DLR120 or Cromar Vent 3 light 95GSM? I'm doing a 8.5m x 4m lean to roof with 20degree pitch for my extension. Would a thicker DLR150/180 be worth the extra money or is it just a waste. Thanks people.
  6. Can someone check for me the previously posted NHBC depth calculation. I've got the type as a moderate water demand and they don't go deeper than 2.5m even if 1m from foundation. I'll look again tomorrow and measure the distance again to see if I do need this raft. Other second views appreciated.
  7. Hi Venkat. I used mybuilder website before coming on here and suggest that's a good place to start.
  8. Hi Russell, Thanks for the reply. I definitely have 1 drain which will need checked for route but until we get down there I don't know. When the building inspector signs each stage off surely it doesn't matter what it cost it's done to the same standard otherwise it wouldn't be passed.
  9. Question; what are the dimensions of the Z bars, any recommendations for companies to supply steelwork.
  10. Hi Peter, thanks for your comprehensive reply. I didn't know about that for UFH.. Top of concrete to current finished floor is approx 200mm. I said the same to the SE but my neighbor has conifers 1.5m to one small section. Crazy but he said I have to do a raft. Ground is my back garden, currently lawn.
  11. Hi Bitpipe. Yes it's for an extension. I plan on putting UFH in but the images are what my SE has done and I'm not wanting to change it now really. Unless others can really recommend what your saying.
  12. Hi Mr. Punter. Yes that's all inclusive price. I've not done this before no, I just wasn't expecting these prices. Got another quote coming this weekend.
  13. Hi everyone, I seen this forum when searching about raft foundations. Who knew how expensive they would be, I've been quoted £9k and £7.5k so far so I've looked at doing some myself and splitting it down to individual jobs, e.g pay a guy to dig it out, get someone in to show me how to build the metal work, get someone in to do the concrete. Obviously all checked at stages by building control. What are your thoughts on this people? Raft is 8.5m x 4m. 600 wide edging down to 1.2m, slab is 200. It's for a single storey extension on my house. Or if anyone is based in North East England give me a shout.
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