Construction Channel

Essex for a monetary value of at least 4 figures. ??

eBay them individually. You could make farsands.

I know nothing about the legal side of this situation. But I don't think they are being unreasonable. I would read all the small print of their document just to make sure they arnt trying to shaft you. But I would think they are just trying to cover their own ass. e.g the renderer stands on his rake, tries to "sue" you for an unsafe workplace and you then try to pass the bill on to him because it was his rake. The world is becoming a fickle place and I can't really blame him.

If it helps it displays fine on an iPhone. Nice work.

It allows space for the round bit of the hinge.

I don't mean to be a fly in the ointment but I fear you will be disappointed. Skimming is the only acceptable finish IMHO. ?

Personally I am not a huge fan of oak veneered MDF. It's incredibly easy to damage (at least the stuff we used was). If I wasn't machining all my mouldings and linings I would go for softwood linings and pre primed MDF mouldings then paint the lot white.

We have done a lot of jobs where they have oiled oak doors in painted linings. staining softwood to try and match is probably a bad idea.

Sorry I seem a bit late to this party but we generally. Screw linings and pin mouldings. I cant see how nailing a lining would be a good idea at all. Mitre bond the architrave and external skirting corners. Only level the hinge leg then set the other leg with a tape and sight it through to make sure they are true to each other. Have fun but it's worth spending the time on the linings instead of having to shoot the doors in.

get a boot scraper while you are there, you don't want to be getting the door mat too dirty if you can help it

I would agree 4 ah is as high as you really need to go. With a sharp blade the skill saw lasts well on them. Only tools that really hit them hard are the grinder, planer and recip saw. Unless you are planning on useing either of those you could probably get away with 3ahs

"steered" and "wander" are interchangeable, depends which one you were trying to sell

i cannot comment on the 85mm one but i can highly recommend the 165mm, We have quite literally built entire houses with very little else

That in the trade is called "Jobs F*ked"...... not really, if that is a soil run you are going to need an inspection chamber anyway ( i would have thought,) cut the clay pipe to the left and right of the gas, install a small chamber to the left of the pipe, infill to the both sides with a short length of plastic connected with an ac4000 (rubber connector) break out and rebuild the corner of the existing chamber with a chamfer and let the new pipe come into the 11o/c inlet of the new chamber..... Easy. that is assuming the original run is flowing left..... if not refer to my opening line

Could you not link the two buildings with just a canopy? (2 steels and a small pitched roof) then run the pipes at high level and insulate the hell out of them. Then just use the ground ducts for the wires?

almost a shame to paint it really.

Slap a couple of these on the side just for good measure

well i am thoroughly lost, what exactly is this CDM thing? and why are we all suddenly deciding to talk about it? Is this just another branch of HSE i have got to choose to ignore??

I knew I should have just welded it. 40mm of plate underneath the beam welds top and bottom. I don't know what you were worried about. ? He was in a good mood this morning

Barney's suggestion probably isn't a bad one then, it is also probably better to go with a decent company like tool station so you can return them if they start to cause an issue, there are probably cheaper ones on ebay but i wouldn't be surprised if they are close to out of date and then the returning would be more of a hassle.

wouldn't like to recommend any if I'm honest, we've been using universal recently as thats what comes with the nails we buy, in fairness we haven't had any issues with them gumming up yet BUT you hear so many bad stories about it i don't want to be they guy who makes your gun need a service. then again the bad stories are probably circulated by the paslode PR team so you will probably be fine with whatever cheap gas you can get hold of

funnily enough i suggested putting a timber head under it and some props. but people (especially bricklayers) don't like it when i make smart arsed comments on their sites so i got ignored and went back to hanging doors on one of our other jobs........ to be fair it held but it has still got a sag in it now. iv been putting props under my 1500 lintels at home just because they are so bloody flimsy.

how do you know this?

short answer would be because that would cost me money. The insulated part is irrelevant where i am using it because it is on the outside of my cavity (timber frame - ventilated cavity - brick skin (where i need to use the steel)) as for certified source.... you may well be right but I'm hoping he won't care, the steel i have "stolen" was one of a pair, and the other one he has let us use in another part of the house i stole it from so as above it all depends what kind of mood he is in, If I'm honest i am not a fan of the lintels you can buy because they are made of such thin metal. earlier this year we spanned a 4m opening with an IG lintel where the lip you laid the outside skin on was made of 3mm steel if not thinner. It bent like hell as they were laying it but as that was what was specced everyone seemed to think it was ok. I would be much happier laying on a 10mm plate

Whats the worst that can happen?