Construction Channel

I take it that one is going to get dealt with on Tuesday... at first i would agree, but i am almost sure the last one we did didn't have them, annoyingly it was a good few years ago and i can't even remember which job it was on so it would take me ages to find the original SE's drawings even if i did know how the offices filing system worked. Im on good terms with the local BCO (who conveniently used to be an SE) Ill give him a ring in the morning for a chat, and if worst comes to worst i will call him out to check the steels on another job and do a nice little sketch for him. My money says he will just tell me to put it 40mm under the RSJ and get on and weld it, all depends what kind of a mood he is in,

as a minimum we always put a double stud between a corner and a door lining, so 90mm ish, I wouldn't worry about the rest of them but the one you have at only 50mm I would bump out if you can

unfortunately the lump of steel i happen to have lying around is actually an RSJ so the inside edge of the foot is sloped essentially i have 2.1 m of 178 x 102 x 19 I have just pulled out of someone else house, and i also have 2.1m of 140 x 10mm flat left over from another job. considering the IG lintels we have put in over much bigger openings seem to made out of tin foil in comparison I am sure this will be more than man enough to take the load. (its not even taking the roof it just needs to take about 15 courses of bricks) i was just hoping someone else might have a SE's drawing i could steal to keep BC happy. TBH if no one chirps up with a drawing in the next half hour It will have to wait until tomorrow anyway so i may as well just call the BCO and ask him if he would be happy with it or does he really want me to get an SE to spec it............. I really should have called him earlier but i forgot

Hey everyone, Quick question before I either start trawling through old drawings at work or have to ask an SE I need to little over a set of french doors (1.8m wide) In the past we have used an RSJ (probably actually a UB) with a steel plate welded along the bottom for the front skin of brick work to sit on similar to this highly technical drawing question is has anyone got a SE's spec or drawing of this to hand as in how much the plate has to go under the RSJ or could it be butt welded with a few cleats from the web to the plate? IF not i will have to find the drawings at work somewhere but i would kind of like to weld this tonight if i can. TIA Ed

Yeah I heard it. Take a box back with one strip left in it and tell them how disappointed you are.

We might make it look easy but I can assure you NOBODY wants to be doing it.

50mm ring shanks??

has anyone tried them in hardi backer? I assumed it was similar stuff but looking at those pictures they look more like Wedi board??

Im afraid I'm with Nick on this one. Pilot it first but make the pilot only as large as the shank of the screw e.g the threads will still bite into the board. issue with not piloting and countersinking is there will be times where you end up drilling out the stud with the screw trying to sink the head. 6" centres sounds plenty close enough to me Not fussed about the S/S part if I'm honest, if the manufacturer says the Knauf screws are fine that would be good enough for me. also worth noting that you want to make sure the board is hard against the stud when you start. as there is no bare shank on that screw they won't "pull in" very well

I would put some insulation in there if you can afford it. I assume you have already achieved your U values in the cavity but it probably won't hurt to improve on it. this wants to be breathable, if this part is waterproof e.g polythene your frame will "sweat" i would try to utilise your ceilings if possible. you may be able to run you pipes in the screed but I usually see them put in between the ceiling joists. (if you have B&B you may need to add a service void below) black splash the whole thing (paint it with a couple of coats of liquid waterproofer,) there will be other ways to do this part but i recon this will be the cheapest option. IDK about the rest but i hope that helps

I'm still struggling to understand how this has happened in so many places. the bends in the wall may have been to do with the tiles on the odd occurrence but it makes no sense on this scale, the fact they don't have a full bed for the tiles worries me even more. I dislike people "dobbing" patios let alone bathrooms! how did you go about the contract? was there a snagging list? if they have used plasterboard screws they won't have pulled through like i suggested in my last comment as they will all be proud. (backer board is a bastard to get into without a cutter head) This is not my field so probably best to let Nick to sink his teeth into this one But if the company you used has any kind of reputation to uphold. call them back in to see what has actually happened and see what excuses they try to come up with. someone has f*ked up somewhere and if you paid for a professional job there is no reason you should end up bleeding for it

how soon after the walls were built did it get boarded and tiled? My only thought would be that maybe the studs have shrunk and pulled the screws through the board?? it is a bit worrying that it has happened so often though. I think you have got to take at least the broken tiles off and do some investigation. + one to a strong magnet just to see how many fixings are behind the in tact tiles

Just so you can read through it i will explain what i built, and in this case i think it will explain both sides of your coin (your builder friend seriously needs to think about his advice) I dug footings, the front side needed re-bar as it was so close to the pond but don't worry about that, the back side need underpinning because planners are a PITA but also don't worry about that, essentially i ended up with a flat concrete surface that i could build my building off. then i built both skins up to damp, then i filled the cavity with concrete so the top of said concrete sloped outwards (approx 40 DEG) with the inside edge of that concrete being 150mm below damp, my front wall was a standard (ish) timber frame with brick skin construction, so first course on the outside above DPC had periodic weep vents to allow any water out, inside course lapped the DPM with the DPC and then bedded my sole plate on top. inside skin had a timber frame on it (studs clad in OSB then breather membrane on the outside) built in panels, outside was just 4" brickwork with cavity trays, lintels and timber fillets above openings all tied together with "wall ties" (screwed through the OSB to the studs every 6 courses (2 courses on blockwork) and every 3 on reveals) (not every stud but there is no reason to skimp on things like this) simples back wall was a whole different kettle as i had to leave the original wall standing for planning reasons but it is worth noting it was a 9" wall (technically structurally free standing) in this case I built the panels on the floor, plied and covered them in membrane as separate sections then erected them (obviously leaving a cavity) against the existing wall, I will tie the two together as much as i can when i create the new openings. i would be mad not to. But If i wasn't creating new openings there would be no way to tie them together which is acceptable as it is 9" but IMHO is not a great idea. I have been drinking so I'm sure this won't sound as comprehensive in the morning as it does now but feel free to have a look through my videos, i might not explain much of it but it is all there if you look hard enough, I should note I am not insulating my cavity at all. all of my insulation is within my timber frame or inside it Ill probably edit this in the morning. HTH ED

technically he could build it in panels and put the membrane on while they are still on the ground, (I had to on my back wall) But its a stupid idea and you couldn't tie the two skins together afterwards anyway so as advised above, just don't do it....

Not really just talk to your local BCO. Im fairly sure they will say the same

Just don't do it, you want to be putting OSB on the outside of your timber frame even if you haven't been told to as it helps stiffen everything up (raking strength i think its called) the way your "builder" friend is suggesting has nothing stopping any moisture in the cavity getting at your structural timbers which to me sounds like a bad idea. Timber studs - Osb- breather membrane- ties bricks/blocks (rain shield) `edit: plasterboard - vapour barrier - timber studs ....ect

You really do want to do the frame first. I had to put my back wall ( timber frame) against an existing wall and it was nothing but a PITA.

Set up some profiles. Or in your case a lot of them.

It is possible on sketchup but probably not as easy/intuitive as dedicated programs. Also you would have to make a 3D model of the house first. Have you xonsidered photoshop? If you already have elevations it probably wouldn't be that hard.

Put it both sides. At least that's what I was taught. Just put a smear underneath. Then bed the next course normally.

Looks more like a rain water gully to me.

I thought it was a fairly bog standard thread for round here.

I dunny what more I can add to this.

Has anyone considered putting a "towel warmer" inline on the hot water feed to the shower. Wouldn't help drying anymore than just somewhere to hang a towel. But it would guarantee a nice warm towel when you get out of the shower.

towel weigh in day 2 including faye washing her hair and me not wiping myself down, F: before: 613 after 688 E: before 502 after 579 assuming we have a "similar" surface area. (roughly the same height, and certain bumps cancel each other out) looks like i have as much hair on my body as Faye does on her head