Construction Channel

I think we may be confusing the application here, I assume @recoveringacademic is referring to the plate he is fixing to the side of the wall, not a plate he is putting on top of a wall. just to be clear but i could be wrong, FWIW we bed our plates on as well, (the ones on top of walls) treated 4x2, concrete screws about every 500 and 1200-1500 long plate straps every 1500, but i think this is not what Ian is asking about

it appears i may have put this in the wrong thread, this is for plates, not rim joists

It all depends what VCL is being used normally we would just use thin gauge polythene but as we all know not a lot sticks to that. So I assume he has specked you a suitable product that he can guarantee will adhere to both the foil faced PIR and to the ply.

Your architect is very good at drawing pretty pictures. But I don't think he was overly worried about your wallet. - it is drawn with firing pieces (tapered bits of wood fixed to the top of level joists) - the tapering of the insulation was just to create the gutters. E.g you would cut out a 6" wide channel at the low end starting at 0" deep in the Center of the roof and ending up 2.5" deep at either end where your hoppers are. - he mentions useing marine ply. Our bco has always been happy with 18mm osb 3 which is possible 1/3 of the price. - he also mentions no mechanical fixings or second layer of ply above the insulation. Just suggests "sticking" the VCL to the marine ply then "sticking" the insulation to that and then "sticking" the roofing material to that. The last part I can understand and should be fine with the correct insulation board but the the other bits I would be a little sceptical about. - also for your wall plates fix them down about every 500mm with concrete screws and then every 1500 with plate straps. ( the plate straps at least should be in your spec.) also yes to the half laps.

I don't know what you're talking about..... you cant really see it from the floor but we both know it's there,,,,, I had to do something with the 2 different slates I was using

Well that took a LOT longer than expected. I shan't bore you with writing the details of all the balls ups I had with getting the rest of the slates I needed but finally the back is slated. Now It's just the little mono pitch to slate, lead work, ridge, cast the cils, fit the windows and doors and I will be officially watertight ?

Essentially yes. What you linked are the screw version of the bolts he has been specked to use. Slightly different application but the principal is the same. The question is whether the cost of Ian already having the bar and the resin creating some kind of a "seal" out weighs the ease of using thunder bolts and the questionable difference it will make in "airtightness".

Dunno really. That's just what it has printed on the Simpson version we buy. I have seen a few people useing screws but our bco isn't a fan of that unless it's in a place you can't swing a hammer. I assume it has things to do with shear strength but I'm sure other people on here could give a more informed opinion. Re: the airtightness I checked that thread just after I posted. Whatever you put in is going to make a hole in the S+C slurry (assuming that is the plan). I can't see it being that much of a problem. If you really wanted you could put a dollop of CT1/fix all in the hole before you wind the bolt in and/or stick some tape over the bolt head. The advantage of the thunderbolts being "self tapping" is they should be pretty bloody tight in the hole.

I signed up to Fibrewifi.com yesterday and so far im very impressed, 15mb/s up and down (was only getting 6 down and 0.3 up on the land line) 100gb monthly allowance for £15/month, yet to see how good it is in adverse weather but they claim it should only lower the speed, not cut out.... the box is fairly small (about the size of 200 fags) but they can use a dish if the signal is worse. it all depends if you have line of sight to a mast I realise they dont operate in your area but possibly there is a company that does. https://home.airband.co.uk might be worth a look

well, it seems I'm late to this one as always. the self-tapping coach bolts I think he is referring to will be these (called thunderbolts round our way, great name) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-M8-M10-M12-M16-HEX-HEAD-MULTI-FIX-THUNDER-CONCRETE-BOLTS-SCREW-ANCHOR-FIXINGS-/112336280362 you may already have the bar but the resin isnt cheap, and it is a lot more labour intensive to put in so may be worth considering just buying what was specced, as Russel said be aware that you want "jiffy hangers" not masonry hangers for this application, also they come in many different sizes e.g for 2" wood they come in both 50mm or 47mm so make sure you get ones for the finished size of your joists, they also come in long and short leg versions, for a 200mm plate I would suggest getting short legs as when they wrap over the top of the plate it becomes an issue for the flooring, also these "should" be fitted with min 30mm twist nails (my least favourite job) but I would recommend 40mm as you will hit your fingers less. IMO the grey egger Peter used is a better product than the peel clean stuff if you are intending for it to get wet, https://www.egger.com/shop/en_GB//PROTECT-EGGER-Protect/p/PROTECT https://www.egger.com/shop/en_GB//PEELCLEANXTRA-EGGER-Peel-Clean-Xtra/p/PEELCLEANXTRA yes glued on both joints and joists, but I cant see the advantage of not screwing it down also but each to their own, I am a little confused about the airtightness bit, how are you planning to make the rest of the wall airtight?

fair enough, I just wondered

I have got to ask, Why does it need to be fixed to anything, could you not just cut down the legs off a side table and sit that on the counter with the microwave on top? fixing anything to the wall units is just asking for trouble IMO

is that £100 per joist or for the lot? if its per joist i wouldnt bother as it hasnt been specified, If you wanted to be fancy you could buy a tub of treatment and coat the first 300mm ish of each joist before you install them. Iv never worked with them so it might be best to find someone (on here) that has and see what they did, technically internal timber shouldnt need treatment........

Yes purely because of the initial outlay, the idea isnt bad but it will NEVER pay for itself, a few hit and miss vents may not be a bad idea but actually pumping the excess heat into a garage. I very much doubt will be cost effective

Im a chippie that decided to put a brick skin on my timber frame. I think the short answer is that were all idiots and thought it might be nice to change it up a bit.....

in fairness to Naj he did post in the introduce yourself section I can't say much about the rest of his posts as ICF is not my favoured build method, but as for his name, he did at least explain himself

that was just the way i was taught, admittedly we only used cavity bats, may well be different for solid boards.

Ties should be every 2 courses for blocks. And every course around reveals.

Ahhh. Very clever.

I assume you mean this stuff https://www.permagard.co.uk/stainless-steel-helical-spiral-bar-3-metre?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0ejNBRCYARIsACEBhDM0NP8lWl6ogOx0ixgLWua25136-J0ovgBODu1VOfv5d3kspzP2kDYaAgxiEALw_wcB if so you are going to do well to hammer foot long lengths of that through OSB, even with a pilot hole i reckon they will bend more often than not I thought the same about just cutting up some " builders strapping" https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/en/products/fixing-band-0-9-thick-x-20mm-wide-x-10-metre-galvanised?utm_medium=google_shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0ejNBRCYARIsACEBhDNjKo3YyIpnZknszaqL3HSfktQi574aRmzAydhTWkVKIYyNdheLCrkaAoLtEALw_wcB considering the metal the official frame ties are made of I can't see it would be any weaker. it'll be interesting to see what BC would say about it...

The great architectural critic Ian Nairn coined the memorably ugly, but useful, expression SLOAP (Space Left-Over After Planning) http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/architecture/9589588/A-fast-track-to-cities-in-full-bloom.html googled like a pro

+1 to needles if you can, you would do well to get a strongboy to catch the whole 400mm wall, also they are not great for anything other than brickwork, unless of course your stone facing has nice straight lines to drill into. might be different if your floor joists go into your internal skin, in which case just prop the joists and stong boy the external skin....... 200x100 needles should be fine but you might want to go down to 600-800 centers. the more props the better IMO

I suppose we should mention a dry screed will take longer to cure......

it depends on how upright your walls are, if they are PERFECT then you may get away with it. if they are slightly out even a bead wont save you.