Construction Channel

id be more worried about the spacers you are going to have to make

this might be a prime opportunity for @Nickfromwales to get a days wage acting as a tutor .......

if you want to mess with copper (which i get the impression you do,) pretty much buy this, a can of gas , wire wool, flux and some solder, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monument-Piezo-Brazing-Soldering-Plumbing/dp/B0748NQRL7/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1513007230&sr=8-19&keywords=plumbing+torch you might need to add a 22mm pipe slice if you come up against any of it, otherwise, just the 15 included will be fine its probably not the best available gear but you don't need to pay top dollar for reliability as you would be very unlucky for it to fail on the amount of work you need it for...

there was a full 4", most we've had settle for a long time.

first good covering weve had in years I had the drone out so i made a video

as above, only one is correct in the first set

anything against Ikea? http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/storage-furniture/shelving-units-systems/bestå-drawer-runner-soft-closing-art-40348715/ + http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/childrens-ikea-products/children-3-7/childrens-storage-system/stuva-grundlig-drawer-without-front-white-art-70128689/ or you could have the push-open option

Can’t be because in the first set only one is correct.

I get this kind of thing on FB all the time. So I may as well let you all join in (note it is actually Saturday night @Tennentslager )

They probably just needed a holiday. Problem solved happy days

Have you updated anything recently? Have you added anything new? Have you tried turning everything off and on again? ( sorry I had to )

Assuming you are useing standard 6-8mm slates I would recommend getting a set of cutters like these (make sure they have the hole punch) https://www.roofinglines.co.uk/product/edma-slate-cutter-with-punch?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyKWhpP3y1wIV5grTCh1rMAnwEAQYEiABEgJY2_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Also assuming you are useing new slates you really won’t have to cut that much. Use a grinder and a diamond blade for your eaves and ridge slates as it’s quicker and the cuts won’t be seen. Then just use these for around any reveals. TBH as long as they have the punch on them you don’t even really need to get a slating hammer. You especially won’t need to get a nice shiny new estwing one like mine. ?

5 and I thought this was reserved for Saturdays?

no reason why you couldnt, Just ask @Barney12 how are you with heights?

Don’t panic. It’s not my house ?

It’s giving me a headache just looking at it. and no I haven’t mirrored the pictures. That is actually how it’s been printed.

I really will laugh if there is

that must have been very hard to write.. I can only hope you somehow get the break that you need. at least now the lurkers in the Scottish highlands know there is an electrician that is worth PM'ing for work

I’m with Peter. Get the steel fabricators/merchants to give you a price for either. I suspect galvanising will add a LOT as I doubt they will do it in house so there will also be another set of transport costs. Getting them to blast and prime is surprisingly cheap. This should stop the corrosion while in transport then you can put a couple more coats when it gets to site. Red oxide and a roller takes no time at all. You may need to look into itumescent paints though especially if they are not being covered.

I think Faye gave up on thinking I was a normal a looong time ago. AFAIC whatever helps you take your mind off it all should be thouroughly indulged in. I got into Youtube by watching other grown men play mine craft so I already know I’m sad ?

He is the one that got me into lockpicking in the first place and the reason I have any idea why my new locks will be very challenging to pick. Its strangely theraputic watching him poke about with his challenge locks.

sell it? Then it's their problem to move it does seem a shame to just break it down, its about the same size as my house, could you keep half of it as any of the things onoff suggested?

Ummmm no. It is still in the pipeline but when I made a list of things that took priority the brick was on about page 4. ?

Its been a while....

thanks for all the responses guys. Ill start at the top If im going to insulate the cavity I will use Celotex as I am already using it and will be a lot easier for me to get hold of. the issue i was thinking about with the cavity tray is this. if i fill the red area with insulation moisture could potentially track along the blue line (realistically it would hit the plastic closure and probably be alright but it still worries me. other option would be to only put 100mm in but then it would have less insulation than the rest of the house and would be a "cold spot" thats a very kind offer but iv got a bunch laying about too, my worry with soffit is the rounded edges wont look quite as crisp and it will be a lot harder to get the front edge nice and straight. its big enough for me to not want to do it also for some of the front windows i would have to corbel from a few courses down to get a header in the right place to cantilever, iv only just laid all those bricks even if i fit them in the brick skin (which is what i would ideally like to do) i would still not actually fix to the bricks, i would fit them with straps back to the timber frame which should get over this problem. hopefully my fantastic illustration will explain better. yes it is i considered flaring my openings, especially my veluxes but unfortunately that is about as far as it went, i could probably get away with a little, maybe the thinner thermal plasterboard. Thanks again for all the help, i really need to mess about with some fascia in the daylight and see how i feel about it, if it does look as hateful as i fear it might ill just have to bring the window forward, insulate the cavity and have a slightly colder spot. not the end of the world i suppose...