Construction Channel

That’s the plan at the moment. Flush with the outside edge of the timber frame. And before you say it I know the easiest way would have been to return the bricks but it’s far too late for that.

you clearly didnt watch my videos about the chainsaw mill did you, if its wood it will be either oak or ash, (probably oak) and iv got both available by the forest load

I have got some fascia laying about I could cut the lip off. Ill have a mess about on the weekend in the daylight i did consider anthracite but decided I would only be doing it for the sake of "fashion" so. no also one of the main advantages of white plastic is it would help drag the light in hopefully, I have minimal windows to please the planners so any extra light I can get would be nice. I was also worried it may look sterile. but then there is a fine line between looking sterile and clean. I like the clean look, I may not maintain one but i like it Im still not sure about cement board, It will need painting same as render eventually, plastic would match the window which is acceptable to me and wood would match the boards inside which is still ok, anything else i fear will look "out of place"

all this time i have been happily ignoring the problem the plan was to fill the cavity with PUR say 100mm back and just mount the window in the brickwork like a normal person. but the more i have been looking at it the less i like it, the PUR would be just to close to the end of my cavity tray for my liking.

TBH i will have to have a better look but the flush stuff doesn't seem that common

hmmm, I think the only true answer would be "not sh1t" essentially i need it to look like the old barn but that didn't have windows and all the surrounding building have just brick reveals, but they didn't have a cavity to hide I like this, only thing would be the maintenance, I realise it would be minimal but i am trying to avoid any at all. I will have to have a good hard think on this one though, Iv got oak for days, and wood is technically "what i do" that was what i was thinking when i said "cement board" problem is on the rear wall i need it to go to about 250mm to cover my cavity trays, i suppose they do a soffit that would work.... no. It will need painting eventually and TBH i prefer either the wood or the plastic...... hmmm wood. Thanks for the help

Born and Bread... you don't get much more local than me unless you start venturing into Norfolk .....or Cornwall, and they sound strangely similar...I wonder whats going on there?

Howdy Everyone. I'm looking for ideas on how to "deal with" my external window reveals. this week i have been making the formwork to cast my cills which has brought back up an issue I was happily ignoring. To be sensible I need to have the external edge of my windows and doors flush (ish) with my timber frame else all my heat is going to flow into my ventilated cavity. this will leave roughly a 100mm cavity and then either 4 or 9 inches of brickwork. shown here badly now I have never seen how anyone else has got over this with brick. it would be obvious for render or cladding but brick??????? only thing i have thought of so far was to try and emulate this look initially, i thought to render it as they have but then I need to fix something to thin air over the cavity. then I considered using some kind of cement board as that would bridge the cavity well but it would involve painting so not going to happen, the current plan is to use a flush plastic fascia (windows will be white plastic) https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/16mm-upvc-magnum-flat-fascia-board-cover-5m-x-150mm-white.html I would mitre bond (superglue) it to the window and ct1 it to the brickwork, the plan would be to still leave some of the brick showing (30-40mm) to hide some of the "discrepancies" of the back wall. anyone else got any good ideas? I would normally just try it but I can't find anywhere without a delivery charge on "flush fascia" so if i buy any i will buy enough to do the lot TIA Ed

Ahh looks like you a bit further east than I guessed. But still only about 20 miles. My mother went to school on headingham which can’t be far from you. Ah yes. And welcome by the way.

.... North Essex - Suffolk border....... north of Chelmsford....... my money says were close.. how far from Saffron Walden are you??

so you're a milwaukee guy eh...... this is always a fun one on site. AFAIC its pick a colour and invest.

im lost, 49k ly is nowhere near 74 Mpc. I wouldnt normally be bothered but i have made the special effort to learn what a pc is for this one so could you please be clearer with your explanation

So about 74.4 Mpc not that big really

does it include jokers?

And somehow It’s still full to the brim. ?

as its such a long length, could you consider laminating a narrower timber between sheets of ply?

Sounds like you have 2 weeks to fill it to the brim

I only put 11mm on mine. Plus I am assuming that Ian has got a pile of 11mm laying around he is looking to use up.

Dont give her the key?

second thoughts, you could ply the roof first. then it really wouldn't matter how strong the battens are, also you could use up more of your timber making the counter battens.....

I would have said any "complete" wood preserver will be fine for this application, http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/ronseal-total-wood-preservative?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4eXPBRCtARIsADvOjY15vy6ETIi1ecRNY7Uq0DdKVEVGkcI6LLmdIRDVZ2bCfE0gUdS5AlcaAiGpEALw_wcB can you not use the 4x2 for your internal walls? realistically you are going to need about 16-20 battens for the whole thing if that, (depending on the size of your slates) how long is the roof and are your timber lengths big enough to do it in one hit? also, dont forget you will only get 3 full inch battens per 4x2........ your going to do it anyway aren't you so I really don't know why I am trying to convince you otherwise

yes, and it's infuriating.

got to love that opening picture. Every bit of PPE they could possibly wear except goggles and ear protection, and the only recommended PPE for the paslode that is also in the picture would be.......... good picture though, very dramatic,,,,,,,

For us the standard solution is a skill saw

its probably possible to order it in, but i have never found any on the shelf.