Nickfromwales

Plasterboard one side of the studs and then just stuff it in there. Cut it into smaller sections and lay it widthways and it'll stay in place without help. Or, do half length drops and glue the tops with aerosol spray glue ( like carpet glue ) and it'll stay put. Fine fishing line is a method I use for overhead work, in conjunction with a staple gun, zig-zagging at ~600mm intervals. Staple on the sides of the joists, not the face, to keep the joist faces clear.

I'm sure it's 230v as you'd not be able to run differing voltages in the same ( 3 core + E ) cable

Electric for me too. Just to have less noise is a major plus tbh.

Thats why your bathrooms not finished yet

Bond them to longer lengths of plywood Straight, and even depth.

A lucky, and priceless insight then

Can you take a load to a local woodworking shop and ask them to run them through a table saw ? Perfect mitres and should only charge a few quid for beers.

I'm a big fan of tile skirting. No paint, no maintenance and look great. What do you need a mitre saw for?

The Hepworth stuff is much better than the JG, for both flexibility and for the range of fittings. The stainless inserts are also much less obtrusive than the JG SuperSeal inserts. Hep all the way.

6th? I have to ask, what was the first one like ?

You'd have all the slack you want as it would be having a new strapper ( piece of new cable ) between two boxes

Knock the mains off, and give it a light sand with some sandpaper and see if the inner cores are either exposed or damaged. Post a pic back with the blackened stuff removed

Better explanation here

No probs re the wiring diagram Basically a TS is usually heated or hot 24/7. Pipe runs from the TS normally go from the upper 'flow' tappings and return again via the lower 'return' tappings. Any run of pipework from those points will inevitably rise or fall along the way, and that makes convectioncirculation possible eg there will be a 'draw' of heated water from the TS and it'll circulate through the pipework completely naturally. Same way that old heat only back boilers would heat a copper tank, eg via two large bore ( 28mm ) circs which required no pump to get the heated water up and back. Quite often these systems had basic central heating systems connected via 22mm pipework and that had a pump to get a higher velocity flow. Quite often there would be a customer complaining that radiators were heating up ( upstairs only ) when only hot water was selected ( eg summertime ) and that was caused by this convection crawling through the pump. An anti-gravity ( single check non return ) valve would stop this with ease. The additional ZV's I mention for each Ufh circuit you have provides the same anti-gravity mitigation, but selectively, ( as in you can run upstairs whilst downstairs is off and vice versa / all off / all on ) via electronic control. Clear as mud?

If the outer pvc is only scorched then I'd leave it tbh and just 'whip' it with white electrical tape. You could do more harm that good cutting and linking it through so if it's not burned to the actual coloured cores then don't go any further. If you want to protect it, just buy a choc box and use that as the mechanical protection. The first pvc layer over the copper is electrical protection, and the outer layer is for mechanical protection only. . Hence the phrase PVC/PVC when ordering cable types.

Most things do .

TLC sell them in smaller quantities

Just put the boards back down . If there's no leaks and the water is getting where it's supposed to then it's ok to leave it imo. .

The foot soldiers are usually just drones tbh, and dependant on which one you get you can just direct them accordingly. Usually tea and biscuits to start can help.

Fwiw I think you'd regret trying to go wireless. Have you tried to get a mobile signal in the new house yet and compared it to standing outside?

Why don't you get them to connect it any old way with a bit of slack, eg say the connection is going in the attic bedroom. Let the massive thunderbulbs connect it and bugger off. Then yank it back out and fish it in through the duct / wherever. Simples. They are a bunch of awkward useless idiots, more so on the admin / logistical side than the guys on the ground, and were responsible for 99% of the problems we had when installing new business telephone systems. That included leaving solicitors and doctors surgeries without incoming calls / no connection ( when converting from analogue to ISDN etc ) at all for 24hours or more etc and really not caring about it. They're a bloody nightmare. Let them come, do their usual crap, and leave. Then you redo it your way. .

Intumescent collars on the duct at the plenum / ceiling junction? Simple and effective as a terminal means of control. If the mvhr fan gets shut down then doesn't there still exist a path between plenum and atmosphere? If so, would heat / convection circulation then naturally draw through the ductwork, regardless of whether it's extract or inlet?

I'd seriously consider smaller ensuites to 1&2, and have the soil and vent pipe outboard unless it can be first fixed sympathetically to the new split design. I'd also look at two windows, one and one, and making each one say 300mm wide x 800mm high so both rooms get natural light and an opening window for fresh air circulation. Having any bathroom without a window isn't preferable IMHO. Go for smaller cube or rectangular showers and if there's room left at the end of each one them, then that's the best place for the towel rads so you don't burn your arse when brushing your teeth. Some very good advice from @Ferdinand there. , particularly like the idea of first fixing the study for conversion later down the line. Deffo go all ensuite now, as converting the study later will get you ready for retail sale comfortably. You could even use that as a sales tool " you choose the suite and the tiles, and we'll fit it ready for you to move in ". Leave some strategically places hot / cold / central heating pipes in the ceiling void of the ground floor 'mother of all mower sheds' for attachment to later in life, likewise with a gas / large electric cable for the cooker ( if it ever becomes self contained eg you take to long building it and YOU end up living with the mower ).