Nickfromwales

@JanetE Go for the plastic coated soft copper and endeavour to be 'joint free'. Remember that you'll have to remove the coating to get a bending machine to fit the radius . Re-cover with yellow electrical ( pvc ) tape, no probs there. You can mount the LPG bottled remotely, e.g. behind / alongside an outbuilding, or right at the rearmost quarter where they won't be seen. They don't have to be against the house, and fwiw, I'd prefer them well away from the skin of my TF house in case of a leak. Go for the best of all options :- 1) Fit small bottles. Lower line of sight for the 'cover' as you haven't got one single 5' bottle to try and hide. 2) Fit an auto-changeover arrangement with 2x small bottles. No running around in the rain with a spanner whilst the sprouts go cold. 3) You won't need to buy a gauge as you'll see the auto changeover indicator has 'flipped' and then just change the empty at your convenience as you'll know it's spent. 4) Soldering LPG is permissible ( quick google finds the regs ) in a fixed installation. Do not have a compression fitting where it's not accessible or in a void of any kind. You may end up using the gas hob more than you expect as, personally, I dislike cooking on electric, so think twice about a single bottle arrangement .

;)

Buildhub owns the rights for the book, so I'm hoping it'll sell more copies than Jordan's "legs wide shut".

1 minute at 8 chuffing bar would show just about anything. Crack on, I say. .

Multimeter is the first bit of kit you need. At the moment your just fumbling around in the dark . Get a reading off the battery and come back to us. Can you connect all the 12v stuff up directly to the battery and see if the charger actually did charge it? If not, can you check the fuse on the output side of the charger?

+1. Fit the pipes, let swmbo have the rug of her dreams ( "operation peace 'n' quiet' ) and fit a substantial floor board without worry. One previous job I did had posi joists with UFH pipes in Alu spreader plates. 22mm weyroc over the joists, then 6mm ply, then tile adhesive and then porcelain tiles. The only complaint was it was too warm in there. Heat will find its way through, trust me, and the rug is a very small area .

The alternative is to just say my name 3 times

Ness, I hope you're in good health.............. You know the drill, and great to have you back on board. If you wish to direct a question at a particular member, just type @ and then you'll be able to type the first letter of the members username and it'll pop up on a drop list. When you select it they'll get notified that you "mentioned" them in a topic. @Ness just like that. We've a much better board here with some great functionality, so posts and questions rarely go astray ( like they sometimes did on EB ). Now go back to intently staring at the foundations,

Tbh, the BCO has been good as gold. I'll not push my luck any further as we've been allowed historical regs for the basement flat which has saved a fortune. 2017 regs only kicking in on the upper floor as we're now doing an attic conversion ( so new works ) .

Change the akward to reach screws to hex or torx drive so there's less chance of them cam'ing out and getting stuck. Hex drive would be my choice here. The vado is a very nice looking tap, is the hard sale down to cost?

a) Fill it to the brim to simulate you sitting in it whilst it's full. b) Once solvent weld has gone off that's the end of the show mate. You'll be able to tow a car with that, a few knocks won't matter a toss. Adding glue will just create a skin which won't do anything whatsoever and will just peel away once cured. A bit more to this one. In your left hand you have the 'plughole', and two rubber washers. I usually ditch the upper one and make that up entirely out of sika. The conical one is where the thinking is applied. Does the conical one fit the profile of the bath reasonably well, or does it hold the waste off the floor of the bath a lot? If the latter, then I'd ditch that one also and pack out with sika. Tightening the fitting will displace any excess sealant so just load it up according to the gap you know exists + 25%. The only important part of that marriage is the underside of the 'plughole' being sealed against the upper face of the hole in the bath. The seals are a secondary consideration IMO, BUT, if the rubber seals just happen to match the bath perfectly you can get away with a sealant-free installation that doesn't leak. Doesn't happen very often btw as these are universal wastes . The rubber seal on the waste arrangement is a pretty good seal on its own. Hand tight, that probably wouldn't leak, it's just down to the accuracy of the finish where the underside of the bath has been ground down to create the seat face. I'd apply just a very thin smear of sika to the underside of that seal ( removing it from the waste to do so ) and then refit it loosely. Then apply another smear to the ribbed face ( which will be in contact with the bath ), with another smear on the bath underside itself, to soak up any imperfection in the casting. Once you've done that and are ready to assemble, the tricky part is to pass the plughole through the various openings / seals etc WITHOUT getting any sealant migrating to the inside of the plughole or waste. Look through the centre during installation to ensure this is so. LAST important note is not to allow ANY rotation of the waste during FINAL tightening. The reason for that is the rubber seal on the waste is now lubricated so it'll get pushed out of position by pressure and motion. Pressure ( created by the plughole getting rotated into the static waste during final tightening ) is fine, but movement during this process is fatal. Remember not to over tighten too, as the sealant will recreate the job of the seals it replaces, and do a better job. Just a smear on the ribbed face will be more than plenty. As this never sees any pressure / weight of water, it needs almost nothing other than the factory arrangement. Hand tight and nowt else. These are bombproof. Same with the plastic trap nut. Just be sure to de-burr the inside of the waste pipe at every joint to stop hair from snagging ( which I'll bet my left nut you've already done anyhoo ). Only thing I've ever had go wrong with these baths when new and out of the packaging is a leaking jet / inlet / outlet, where some goon has used it to lift the bath / struck it at some point. A soak test will show this immediately, ( over a couple of hours ). Running the pump with the bath full is the only way to check for leaks under pressure. Have some anti-foam droplets ready.

That's a result. Essentially taps are serviceable from above anyhoo, but if you can't get parts then this would negate the worry of how to replace them when they do go. So, can your missus have a bath now?

Nick. Can we stick to factual instances please, rather than simply stating such things randomly. A plumber could easily be accused of the same, in fact just about any profession. . Thank you.

I'm doing a flat where it's on the 2nd and 3rd story. BC have requested a sprinkler system and a protected lobby so I think I still have to fir fire doors. Is it common for sprinklers to negate the installation of fire doors? That would be a fine chunk of cash to put towards the sprinklers, and they're seemingly quite inconspicuous and unobtrusive ( as opposed to the horrible things I had visualised in my head ). Fire doors are pretty horrible in a domestic setting, so if sprinklers negate them then it should be something we look to discuss further here for sure .

Good Sense of Humour, ( so we can laugh at such injuries )

Welcome aboard . A gsh is a must here, so ask away and prepare yourself for the answers. We shoot from the hip but we keep to the facts , with a good bit of banter along the way.

Strange that he didn't identify the issue and provide a mitigation strategy in his return . He'd have known all about how far that timber could traverse before needing a joint so maybe next time you get charged for eye contact, bring that up .

I consider myself proffesional'ish, and that's EXACTLY what I've done for years. . The off-cut cut to fill at least 80% of the 'stitch', say 350mm off-cut for a 400mm gap, and then stick the two boards together accordingly.

I was just about to amend my earlier reply to say I forgot you had no attic so I gave a bit of a bum steer in this particular case. Indeed, you'll be better off liaising with the joiners & boarders to get the ceilings to go on last, and trust me I fully sympathise with Prodaves POV as it's the same for plumbers, if not worse, when your left out of the considerations of the build......( and then told to make the pipes and wires 'invisible' )

Yes, BUT, then the joiners have to anticipate all the wall locations and add much more timber to 'take' the ceiling plasterboards. So the ease you create for the spark ( & plumber ) gets offset against the nightmare you create for the joiners / boarders .

Every place ( 2 bed to 10 bed ) I / we ( family ) have ever rented have been treated as my own, or better. I think @Crofter's ethos is exactly spot on, and he should stick to his plan. If you aim for cattle that's what you'll get, BUT, if you go for a med / top price you'll get exclusivity and a much better tenant ( or 'customer' in your case ). I'd go for the solid wood top and just refinish it accordingly, with @PeterW's concoction to keep the red wine at bay. Get the idea of changing the work tops every 4-5 years out of your head and just fit a good quality oak / hardwood top that will develop patina and age with grace. Whats the cooker going to be? LPG or electric?

I've experience of this Siga tape and I can say it's incredibly good stuff. Compromise on the membrane all you can, but DO NOT compromise on the tape . Cheaper tapes which give up and start to leak will negate all the hard work you've done, and also the situation would become exaggerated by the fact you've got MVHR, so, give this the same respect you gave your founds and raft and keep the standard high. ?

Sorry to be the party pooper, but @Crofter, do a nice job, don't restrict your choice and bite the bullet. Get a 4m worktop couriered to you and do it properly. By the time you've sorted a router, got to grips with using it, bought bolts, colourfill and solvent etc you'll soon see the value in just buying the right top in and getting on with something of value whilst you await its arrival. Oh, and God forbid you sneeze when routering, as that'll be game over.

Happy days. Worth a bit of sensible cross examining sometimes . Thanks for updating the thread .

Not the cheapest thing to stick in the post though ?