Nickfromwales

Intergas gets a good mention here, but as I've stated here, and on EB, I'm a Baxi or Vaillant man myself. I've been around boilers for over 20 years and have based my findings around breakdowns / failures, longevity, dhw production and price. Viessmann are over priced IMHO, and likewise for WB. They both survive off their pedigree and following IMO, with WB being just synonymous with British Gas. Vaillant are very robust, well built and reliable machines, which seem to be free from any early / mid term failures. Baxi are my instant second choice below them, should budget be a constraint. The Baxis are a little cheaper but are also very, very reliable too and have equally good dhw flow rates. The vaillant 938 ERP is a heat-store combi with the equivalent dhw output of a small UVC. They're incredibly good at supplying hot water and don't suffer any delay in producing dhw, as regular combis do. If you want to be able to shower whilst other hot / cold outlets are used elsewhere in the house then this is the one to have

Self build meets CSI Miami

I disagree with your plumbers. The buffer will do little when the house needs heating from cold, but when the house is up to temperature, and that heat is being maintained, it will become quite important indeed. If your boiler is left to short cycle, which there are no measures to mitigate afaik ( and the whole reason a buffer is implemented ), then it will also drop below the point where ideal condensing temperature is achieved, thus reducing the boiler efficiency accordingly. If a buffer is used, preferably in the airing cupboard so it kills two birds with one stone, then it can be fitted with a cylinder stat which will dictate the temp that the buffer gets maintained at. The hysteresis of the cyl stat will allow you to pulse heat from the boiler, at it's user defined flow temp, therefore allowing you to set that cycle to happen at the optimum temp for maximum condensing efficiency to be achieved. Its not a good idea to run Ufh directly off a combi boiler unless you intend to implement a heat loss circuit, such as paralleling the towel rads to heat in unison, as a form of passive buffer. If you have any reasonable dhw demand then I'd consider a heat store combi tbh, and look twice at the claims from WB about the dhw rates! Their own website had my last 'Worcester insistent' customer cross-examining me as the 30kw combi clearly stated that it was typically suited for a flat or small 1 bedroom house . When I stated that a baxi 28kw gave excellent dhw flow rates, so a 30kw equivalent should be an improvement, said customer made me look at the wording for myself. Barking mad. I'm a Baxi or Vaillant man myself, and don't personally rate the WB boilers.

You're right, apologies. It's open flue that's dependant on adventitious air from within the dwelling Balanced will rely upon the seals of the combustion / burner chamber for air tightness but should be ok for PH as its not allowed to leak products of combustion into the dwelling aka air / gas tight. Most system boilers would be RS tbh, so choosing well should mitigate most of the concern. The issue of the air tightness of the penetration for the flue, from inside to out, still remains the key to keeping the house 'sealed'.

FYI balanced flue appliances draw air from the room and use convection or fans to blow the fumes out to atmosphere.

A new boiler will be called an RS ( room sealed ) appliance, unless you choose a balanced flue which I presume you wouldn't want. The combustion chamber, air in / fumes out ) is all entirely sealed to the outside atmosphere via the coaxial flue. Airtightness will only be compromised by making the penetration for the flue. I'll post some pics of the last MBC build where I had the same thing to do.

Just ordered this one from eBay which arrived today. Was going with your one until I saw it had a longer lead time from the land of the bratwurst . If you turn the pressure down then the small vessel should suffice, but I'm pumping into a 200 ltr acc on my job from break tanks. Maybe an idea to fit some flow restrictors in the bog inlets to reduce the flow velocity a bit.

If i put the main light on in the living room I get things chucked at me. Table and wall for us ( her ).

PVC is cheap enough tbh, and if this is in sight I'd rather it looked consistent if it were me .

Are you using a medium sized accumulator as a buffer? Much better than pumping direct as the pressure / flow switch will be quite coarse on its own? I'd deffo avoid the submersible and pump from upstream. Easier to clean / maintain and less crud to reduce longevity. Its 'suck' for me

lol. Bodrer adhesive for me. Ps @TerryE, have you discovered asbestos in your new build or is that a fashion statement ?

There would be a significant 'shoulder' if you used that upside down. Its a no I'm afraid . I genuine can't think of a job ive ever done like this, without using a sleeve.

It'll go into cast and leave PVC out the top, but I'm not sure of it'll do the other combination. Why are you going back to cast? Just renew the vent in PVC ?

It can if it saves Dave £100

Set of jump leads, a bit of digging, and violá......off grid with as much free juice as you want .

For £15 you can't really argue, but my OCD is kicking off with the hose going up.

Post a pic Dave, you know you want to

Just bin those and buy some standard flexis ?

The Soudal family of products is good quality and I use them regularly, mostly the L/E foam. We are all complicated, strange creatures of our own reasoning. ?

I'm still unsure as to where it's actually leaking from sorry. Is it where the sections join ?

I don't use white CT1 for ANYTHING. It goes near custard yellow. I will only, and reluctantly, use colour matched silicones to give a job the cherry on the cake IF I can't do the cosmetic / final sealing with a clear bead of CT1. This siliconing is done over a fundamental seal and accepted as 'sacrificial' sealing for aesthetics only. That can be quickly and easily removed and replaced as the silicone gets tired / grotty. The reason for the mix of makes is that I've not actually seen a clear Sikaflex tbh ( and haven't really looked for one either, for whatever reason ). Also, comparing the two, I maintain that Sikaflex is unrivalled for use as an adhesive, complimented with excellent 'sealing' properties, and stays white. You could quite easily tool and finish white Sikaflex and have it as the final product on display, but definitely not so with white CT1. Fwiw, the colured CT1's seem fine and maintain their colour so a shame the white goes 'off'. Hold the press....Bingo I'll get some and give it a whirl.

£300 doesn't sound too bad tbh, once you factor in all the grief you'll be avoiding trying not to fit one Simple, straightforward, looks the nuts and is a 10 minute fit. Get your wallet out me thinks

A picture with an arrow pointing to the leaking part would be helpful