Nickfromwales

Also, it could be a simple as the filter in the PRedV having accrued flux / solder / grot from the main, as iirc @ProDave suggested.

50 litres per min flow rate is great. 11/12 is average, 20 is good. Can we have some pics of the TS and peripheral plumbing plz. Does the cold go onto the TS in 22mm pipe? Also, do you know if plumb-o-nugget fitted a pressure reducing valve? If so, that's the first place to look for increasing the flow. I went to a job where they had 10 bar incoming mains, it was like a fire hydrant. The original installer had fkd up and didn't put the PRedV in the right place so the UVC expansion popped and flooded their £1m house from upstairs down I rejigged the plumbing and fitted a secondary PRedV at the stopcock and it was factory set to 3.5bar. I put a gauge on so the customer had a confidence register to assure them it was working fine, and I left them to it. I had a phone call from them saying that they were getting very low flow to the kitchen sink and showers so could I come back. I found the PRedV was strangling the flow more than it should have ( 22mm valve ) so I increased the pressure to 4 bar. This made a huge difference and they were pretty much as good as before I turned up so I'd deffo look there. Buy a gauge and stick it on the bath tap cold connection. With the hot running very slowly ( no pun intended ) adjust the PRedV very slowly and allow a few seconds for it to alter and equalise. Hopefully it will be as simple as this. If there one and it's set at 3 bar, try at 3.5, and if it's set at 3.5, try at 3.8 first. Raise incrementally until your happy with the flow but don't go too high. We still need to know the pressure off the outside tap tbh.

For example only Edited to add : You can buy unions which will allow you to separate the blender and pump from the rails if space is tight. I did this on a previous install where I needed the whole thing to fit in a corner. Rails went to the left, and then unions took the rail flow and return into the corner and across the back wall where I then reconnected to the pump set. Bingo.

A 12 port manifold will accept 24 pipes You need a 9 port manifold.

I've squinted at the pics a bit more, and it looks like a 25mm x 22mm stopcock to the left. Is that right?

Tightly bound Armorflex insulation, two layers of self adhesive sealed 9mm, would be bombproof. Trace heating is way overkill. The main problem would be protecting the insulation from physical / rodent abuse, so can these be capped some way?

If that's what they're designed to do, then why worry? Yes, it would be better for them to be tucked underneath, but hard driving rain will still get to them so they'll either take a battering or they won't. Seems from the installs I've seen that they will, indeed, take all that the elements can chuck at them and still perform admirably.

To clarify some details here further A red pressure vessel would be non-potable, so would relate to the primary heating circuit. The pressure gauge on that would have absolutely nothing to do with the flow rate of hot or cold water within the property. The nominal pressure for a sealed HEATING ( primary ) system would be 1-1.5 bar. That pressure would be almost identical to the gauge on the system boiler as they'd be the same body of water. Not sure what you mean here tbh. The dhw system is cold mains fed when you've got an unvented system. If you had a leak, it would hardly affect the terminal flow rate unless it was a torrent. A torrent is quite easy to find, so assume this can be ruled out. The pressure drop in a sealed heating system would only cause the boiler to switch off, and again, would leave the hot and cold flow rates completely unaffected. You need to survey the mains before recommending an accumulator. If there is insufficient static pressure, the acc would never fill, at which point ( like my current job ) you'd have to fit a break tank, a cold mains booster pump, and then the acc. Any unvented install should have a 22mm cold mains 'backbone' running throughout the house. This job has a TS, so is in essence an instant water heater. This should also have a 22mm cold mains backbone ( all cold pipework done in 22mm bar the last outlet which can be in 15mm off the 22mm ), but should also either have the majority of the hot done in 22mm, or have radial plumbing ( individual runs of small bore to each outlet from a centralised manifold ) in order to alleviate resistance from the pipework and deliver maximum flow rates. From the pics, it's clear that the plumbing may well be mostly done in 15mm. @Shell820810, do you have pics of the hot and cold connections at the TS? Also, can your hubby conform how much 22mm hot / cold pipework, if any, has been installed, and to / from where ? Ta.

See the pics Can I see a side view, close up, of the left hand stopcock. And also a clear pic of that pressure gauge as it is now. Ta.

Number one F'k up Top info

Also, do you know if you have an outside tap which comes directly off your underground water main? Can you ask next door if you can check their supply ( pressure and litres per min flow rate ). The communication pipe that serves you both / all will be at the same potential for you and next door, so best to eliminate / investigate from the supply inwards.

Can you post a pic of the incoming supply, stopcock, etc plz. .

Agree that the quoted text just massively over complicated the setup. The only thing from your comment that I'd change, Dave, is where excess heat gets 'dumped' to. I really don't like dumping such high grade heat to anywhere where it can cause injury, such as a rad in the house, as it can easily get to temps of 80oC or above and a child / elderly person accidentally coming into contact with that would be a burns victim. I always look at fitting a dedicated heat loss rad, something like a 1800x700 double convector rad positioned in a cold attic space or similar void, where it can dissipate heat with no detriment to the house or danger to its occupants. Most modern TS's will have a T&PRV 'blow off' which will open at ~90oC, ( unless it's been purchased specifically without one ), but for a gravity install these don't operate for over pressure, but are good as a secondary / fail safe for overheat. They DO NOT negate a heat dump arrangement, but are better to have than not to have. They're not critical for an open pipe install as the expansion is designed to happen at the F&E header tank, and that also negates having to get a discharge pipe from the TS to drain. One stat at the midway point for boiler control, one at the top for excess temp heat dump control and Bobs your Uncle.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Try reading that from the first post and you may be slightly better informed .

Beware recommending automotive connectors for 230v as they're not 230v insulation 'integrity', neither are the automotive cables ( unless clearly stated ) .

I've just fitted some 120mm 9w ones in a small shower room ( IP66 ) and am hugely impressed by them. These ones And my DAB radio didn't go off when I turned them on ( my test for rf interference ? ). I doubt I'll ever fit generic down lights ( GU10 / MR16 spots ) ever again tbh.

Have you checked @JSHarris blog entry for the supplier of his?

I just make a bypass 'rail' out of 22mm which basically travels past the last flow / return connection and links back to itself. As long as you've either place the LLH in the airing cupboard or insulated it then the additional losses should be fine, what size is it out of curiosity. ?

Vigilant Ed rides again

No harm no 'fowl'. Geddit ?

Nope. .

What you got, 100%. Lower standing losses and physically smaller for the same capacity. Apologies for the seemingly bum steer but after you pinged me on EB I got onto the phone ( as you're aware ) and got to the bottom of what's better / cheaper etc and the spray foam is a slightly budget version of the product as your buying cheaper foam and they're not fitting the white powder coated case if they go that route. As above, the final confusion was Roger telling me it should cost more for the jacket, but then Trevor saying he wouldn't charge extra either way. With those cards on the table it's a no-brainer. Metal jacket, HP insulation and more compact product all the way.

Our 'policy' is not to allow commercial posting, links etc in new membership, so for your post to link to another site should really have been edited accordingly and one of us moderators would have PM'd you to explain why the action had been taken. As it's a link to somewhere neutral, I, for one, have let it slide. If, for example, it was a link to an aquarium supplier, it would have been zapped almost instantly and you'd have been warned 'off air'. @daiking responded with song, as his recent home improvements have left him on the edge. Feel free to update the thread if you get some better 'fish-related' replies Regards, Nick.

I need to create a new thread regarding the extra insulation etc as I've discussed this at great length with Roger at Telford and have been assured the standard ( hi performance ) insulation which is installed beneath the cosmetic metal 'jacket' would perform better than the extra depth spray foam. The confusion was around @Shell820810 's issue when hers turned up with no extra spray insulation, but the metal jacket, which shouldn't have been on it. It boiled down to the thicker spray insulation being cheaper than the high performance insulation and the metal jacket combined, so in essence you'd get a bulkier, cheaper to buy cylinder which had a loss of around .5kw per 24hrs. The exact figures escape me now but you deffo want to order the regular cylinder with the HP insulation and metal jacket. Regarding costs / savings I was assured by Trevor at Cylinders2go that there would not be any premium, regardless, when buying through him ( mentioning the forum and my username ). This is is for a 400, but I think the dia stays the same for a 500 but the height changes to 1810mm iirc. The naked tank is, I believe, designed to fit through a standard 760mm doorway . Just remember that the immersion / s need to face front so you can change them if necessary without removing the cylinder.