Nickfromwales

Just glad to be providing a service.

Ok. Boiling tap with blended instant hot water for the kitchen sink, with one assuming you'll have a dishwasher?. Write the expense of the tap off against the cost of the HRC and associated pipework / complexity and running costs. Go for radial plumbing throughout and consider a cold mains accumulator to reinforce the flow rates if your incoming supply is less than perfect. The delay to ensuite 1 will only be apparent when you run the basin hot taps after a jimmy riddle / other. That can be reduced by running them in 10mm. The baths and showers will be relatively high flow rate outlets so by the time you've turned the tap on fully and selected your favourite loofa the water will be hot. The thing to observe is reducing the amount of large bore primary pipework prior to the manifolds for the hot feeds. FYI, I previously plumbed a similar sized property and ran a HRC for just the basins. That worked well as there were a few satellite basins ( WC's ) which would have suffered otherwise. I chose to run a well insulated HRC and also decided to continue a spur off the HRC down to the very far away kitchen sink ( pretty similar to your layout tbh ). I ran the HRC at 50oC to keep the temp,high enough for 'dish wash' and then put individual TMV's ( thermostatic blending valves ) at each wash hand basin to reduce the water temp to make it comfortable for hand washing, negating the faffing about between hot and cold.

Let me dart the last 2 kids then I'll come back to this

Nope. I think this thread NEEDS a night off.

2 day ban for you

I don't think your two concerns are directly related tbh. Having good flow will have nowt to do with a hot return circuit ( HRC ) or standard plumbing, either will be dependant upon pipe sizing, incoming cold mains pressure and flow rates, and your chosen dhw production unit having a good flow rate through it. Which room is the kitchen under.? Can you post the other floor plan please

Tres bien, Rodney.

I really didn't want to embrace this tbh, but seeing the 'shed-in-progress' I have to chomp some humble pie. It actually looks quite good.

Sounds better. It adds a lot. More plumbing, more components, you'd still need a generic rad in the top room as well as the dump rad as it'll only dump when the system overheats so you can't use it to heat 'when you like' . Open pipe needs F&E, without it you'd be all sealed so a much less complex setup and much easier to integrate things with / to. I'd go for a TS not a buffer ( whilst an uvc is dedicated to dhw ) so you can get cold water uplift and pre heat the water going into the uvc. That'll aid downsizing, and help out massively when Pv isn't generating.

I didn't want to say it, but I'll certainly second that tbh. . Hes going to the merchant for advice, which is bad on a good day.

You'll find they'll be well seasoned by now and take a lot of 'abuse' eg having Ufh. I'd favour that existing timber over new stuff all day long. .

Ok Having the TS in the attic could be a problem. With a solid fuel heat source you'll need an open pipe 'vented' primary heating circuit servicing that arrangement. That means you'll need a large galvanised steel feed and expansion ( F&E ) tank at a minimum of 1m above the top of the TS. Next problem I see is running heating and hot water via the TS for when the ashp is being used. The space heating should ideally be able to run direct ( via a small buffer ) from the ashp to the Ufh. Otherwise the ashp will need to constantly run at high temp so as not to cool the TS and render it useless for dhw. Lets go bite size on this . Thoughts so far?

You won't be using those boards Experpt..... " ProWarm™ BACKER-PRO insulation Boards are ideal for two primary purposes; as a superior waterproof surface to fix wall or floor tiles and as a first class heat insulation for underfloor heating systems. ProWarm™ BACKER-PRO insulation boards are particularly suited to underfloor and under tile heating applications. Installation below underfloor heating systems on an existing un-insulated concrete or timber sub-floor will greatly reduce heat up time and running costs." Youd be better off with a quality plywood, but I'd probably recommend that you fix engineered flooring directly over the plates. I'd bond them down rather than mechanical fix or floating, so they have a good contact for heat transfer but still some movement.

Looking good. Hoping to start my manshed soon, getting quite jealous of your bats new house .

Will that be wise if it's a ventilated void?

Ventilation heat loss from below the floor will be a big factor. How much space is there between the underside of the joists to the ground? 50mm of cellotex / similar will be quite inadequate imho. Draughtproofing the insulated envelope ( NOT the ventilated void underneath ) will be of paramount importance. Can you not remove and backfill with insulation and concrete / screed?

http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/12249-deadly-summer-overheating/page__fromsearch__1

Heat store 938 and a small buffer for Ufh would do you proud . Fill yer boots

With no Pv, I'd try and get away with a Combi. If you deffo go LPG, id recommend a heat store Combi like the Vaillant 938 which is as close to an UVC as you can get without having a cylinder. Heating can be via a buffer in the airing cupboard, and that'll allow your low grade heat to feed off the boiler with ease. How many bathrooms, and what's your DHW requirement? Couple on your own or 3 teenagers?

Reminds you of the last time you came home pissed

Anyone got Andrews email? He's not showing as registered here yet.

Still not a bad height .

I knew we should have patented that concept "This time next year, Rodney, we'll be millionaires".......??????

Tres bien .

Time to put the sheriff badge on me thinks. Say nite nite .