Nickfromwales

That's the stop gap iirc, long term you'll be off the manifold

Bingo. Whack it on the towel rad and select the temp to suit your marital status

@Onoff What's the temp range of that pump / blender you picked up off eBay? Btw, using a naff old dangerous towel rail as an example of how the new bathroom will be is a bit daft tbh . The downstairs towel rad will be as hot as you design it to be, so you just engineer the solution around the remit and then you'll get the desired result. Simples. As a reality check, get a towel and hang it on a coat hanger. Put that in a heated room and watch it dry all by itself.

Go for a towel rad, as a regular rad will just overheat the room imho. Your missus will be suitably impressed with the UFH, to a point where you can ask "cream or custard for your humble pie, dear?" .

You've got me thinking now about how much easier a steel frame would be for my up coming manshed. Great thread, I'm watching closely. ?

It's also down to the type of boiler which is there. If it's not suitable for direct connection you may need to integrate a buffer to make it so. . Breaking out and removing the slab isn't that much grief, just labour and muck-away intensive, but the resulting product may not be any more efficient unless you address the fabric heat loss ( draughty / Swiss-cheese esque build ) but if not too bothered then it's reasonably easy to achieve with a few quid chucked at it. Heat loss calc is essential as the radiators may be able to produce more heat than the UFH for each given room / space ( so beware of that ).

B and Q trade point had similar for £40 which I snapped up. It's still going strong and that's mixing tile adhesive in full bag to bag-and-a-half quantities which isn't easy going. I may buy that one if the B and Q one isn't available any more, just to have a second 'clean' machine for plaster only. +1, good find. .

Half dozen blank completion certificates would guarantee your safety

I've been carrying out building work for years . 2 x 4.5m steels and 1 x 4.9m steel going in end of the week. Another day in the office, except I need about 8 guys on site for grunt. . Met Knowles and the gang on the swansea big build about 18 months or so. That was a crazy 9 days ?

Don't forget you can buy useable baths from 1500mm upwards. Captains baths are usually 1500-1600 long . I would do away with the bath tbh, and accept that a family with small children won't buy. Doesn't sound like that's your target audience anyhoo. Id do everything in my power to put a shower room upstairs, no bigger than needed, and fit ( retain ) a downstairs WC with wash hand basin only. Forget the downstairs shower IMO as no buyers will be expecting two bathrooms in this size house and will deffo not appreciate the lost space / size of the rooms sacrificed to achieve that. Make sure there is good ventilation and only part tile so your buyers can change the colour with different paint.

Don't forget we have a market place section here mike . Pop any other items in the 'wanted' section, and check there's nothing you need soon on there 'for sale' too .

Don't be sorry ......it pays the bills. .

Results all 'round. Historical regs have been granted as the flats have been existing for over 3 decades. No need for sprinklers, full epc and mega sound proofing, ( and probably more ). Phew. I am, however, fitting insulated PB on the external walls, full filling the 1st floor joist voids with 200mm of acoustic roll, fitting 15mm FR PB to the ceiling, then counter battening perpendicularly and fitting resilient bars. That will then have acoustic ( blue ) PB fitted, so sound deadening should be more than sufficient ( I hope ). As the 2nd floor flat is accessed from the basement rear door, the one which will be the sole means of access for flat A and flat B, there is a requirement for a smoke velux at the head of the staircase. As the top flat has a high ridge height from the upper landing level, I'm unsure as to how best 'make that work'. There is a strong possibility that the client wants to move into the top flat herself and have the attic as the master bedroom, so I'm assuming I can't take the additional ( new to attic ) stairs above the original ones as there would then be no scope for an openable window off the primary means of escape. Getting BCO to call out again next week to get some input and approvals so I can crack on. Basement flat has the original full rear elevation knocked though and supported by steels ( done over 30 years ago ) to extend the rear out. As I thought, the steels are too short and insufficient in size for me to cut and weld onto to extend them, so SE has been out and I get the calcs for the new steels in the morning. £2k later and they'll be fitted. ? Have taken it upon myself to fit steel in the box bedroom so I can take the original fireplace out, thus making the box bedroom a decent bit wider. What difference will a couple more days of smashing and bashing make eh?!? Off tomorrow to buy the steel and get some genie lifts and acrows delivered ready for the tribe to turn up . If you don't hear from me again, we needed more acrows ?

+ 1 A valuable addition to the forum. . Welcome aboard, hope you don't suffer from sea sickness as it gets a bit choppy here now and then

Bit late to this party as I'm 350mph with work at the mo ? No problem whatsoever going under the walls, just sleeve or insulate it and you'll be fine ( 100mm wall transit would be 300mm of cover. 100 before - 100 under - 100 out the other side ). Loop method is the anti-Christ unless your in spreader plates, so go reverse / inverted whenever possible.

That method is for wooden floor as your finished floor. . The only thing I'd add to that scenario is fitting some fluffy ( Rockwool ) under the plates to make them slightly proud of the finished height. That way, when you fix the wooden floor down you'll be forcing the plates against the fluffy and ensuring good surface contact between the plates and the wooden floor. If you look at Frogeyes pics above you'll see how the plates naturally want to sag so that needs addressing with either method, eg fluffy or staples.

This method That allows you to cross the posi joists without cutting into them. Just remove the batten accordingly.

Dip under the top rail of the joist. Not ideal, but if you commission ( purge ) properly you should eradicate any air locks / pockets. Once full of water and treated properly with inhibitor ( X100 / similar quality product ) then it should be fine. Air vents ( automatic ) on both of the manifold rails is essential. .

With my rubi cutter there is next to no waste. I really struggle to tell which side is factory and which side I just cut. Money well spent . @daiking changing to a pukka blade will help a lot.

If your boiler stat was set too high then maybe. The cylinder would only have heated to the set temp of the boiler, so anything above 70oC may have started a bit of excessive expansion plus it would have been sustained so perhaps see if it all settles down now ?

FYI. My combi continued to produce oodles of hot water during this episode.

First and foremost, FIT THE UFH FIRST WHENEVER YOU CAN ! Retrofitting from underneath is simply hard work. @Bitpipe was in the same boat as you, but I managed to nudge him into 'doing the right thing' and he put his plates and pipe in as the build went up. MBC lads joined in and helped ( took over iirc ) to lay it and it saved a LOT of grief. The ideal set of events would be to allow for your posi-joists to have an 18mm batten atop, and then plates. The batten is required to allow you to cut the end for the pipe to transverse joist space to joist space as posi-joists can't be cut. Not a problem with regular joists btw. The main thing, either way, is to make sure the plates are fixed up nice and snug. I use an air powered stapler to fix them to the underside of the deck material so the heat transfer ( promoted by surface contact ) is as good as it can get. The only real tip for fitting from underneath is make sure you have a pipe decoiler, make sure you have at least 3 people on it, and don't be in a rush to do it. Pulling in 100m of pipe is a pain, kinking the last 10m piece and having to pull it all out and start again would be soul destroying. . Cut a few short pieces of pipe and get used to the minimum bending radius, ( before the pipe kinks ), by trying to form 180o bends in the sample pieces. That'll give you an insight into how far you can & can't 'push' the pipe.

Simple folks, just insulate every other pipe in the congested areas . 9mm wall armorflex will be ample.

The only thing missing is a cape ??

Yup. Just until you can see it's not got another full revolution left to go. "Plumbers eye" aka "Use the force".