Nickfromwales

Jewsons have seen me twice in 10 years prob. Once it was for egg mould skirting which I needed regardless of price there and then, and another time where I laughed in the guys face and put everything back on the shelves before leaving in disbelief. I explained I was in the trade and they asked for me to open an account. No ta. I don't use credit accounts anywhere and much prefer to pay for my stuff as I order it so I can agree rates AS I purchase, not argue after an incorrect bill arrives 30-60 days later . A word with the area Rep sometimes helps but the lines of communication are often crossed at best with anyone you don't use routinely.

Yup. The soft line are a very nice rad.

Yes, An assumption of ground floor, sorry. Re the moisture from the screed, at the very worst you'd benefit from treated timber for the sole plates IF you start the framework before the screed has fully dried ( about a day per 2mm unless it's stated other ). If the screed is surface dry then most adhesives would work but I particularly dislike GF as it forms a skin pretty much as your applying it ?. If the house is slightly cold / humid then it's really unsuitable TBH. Fwiw, single part PU actually benefits from moisture and it helps it cure.

? Been 20/7 last week so I'll update re trim cutting etc ASAP ?

Use clothes pegs 30mm apart and line up the trims. Run some insulation tape over the joint to stop any excess bond from escaping and stitch it with spot welds of mitre bond. Wait 5 mins and remove pegs. Repeat for the gaps in between any shes a good 'un. ? Edit to add : obviously you'll need to cut the mitres on the front strip and assemble this during the tiling process as and when practicable.

Screed will be soft as butter 24 / 48 hrs after laying. You need at least 2 days before walking / heavy traffic ideally. Thunderbolting into screed that's less than a week old will be useless as the bolts will just turn into drill bits and tear the screed out. As far as grip fill ( GF ) is concerned, you'd need to put some under the DPC and on top to get any actual purchase as the DPC will separate the timber from the screed. If I was looking for any kind of bond TBH I'd use D4 PU glue not GF as it expands to fill the voids, stays 'open' much longer than GF and is far quicker to work with. GF would be a last resort for me, if I didn't have anything else in the van . I take it there's either no UFH or no Ufh pipes at the sole plate positions?

I would simply whack stop ends on the terminations and pressurise to cold mains max potential via the manifolds. Will they be in at the point of initial testing?

That's a good option if you have less than the target test pressure available. @TerryE, are you doing continuous single radial runs?

Make sure you've got some long ropes , and some heavy set friends to hold them

I'd prob tank the top of the bath boxing and upstand. With a good seal fortified with clear CT1 that would be belt n 2 braces. You'll be buying a tanking kit anyhoo, so just buy a large kit and coat the ply top with liquid membrane. SBR may be another option, but I don't use that typically for tiling.

Yup. And they're always not worth a w**k unless you've spent big bucks on a brand name bath. Multitool them off with real care if they're in the way.

Yes, we should clarify that . Having those pushfit bosses straight after the bends would be fine, or at any other point in the runs. Basically, stick 'em where you like .

Sorry. +1. The boss should be about a metre from the invert so the contents of the pipe aren't doing a loop the loop where the boss is. That's more of a consideration if the soil is coming around a horizontal bend then hitting the boss location, but if you've only got vertical drops to the invert then you won't have any probs having the fitting I linked being the next component directly after the bend.

With 50mm pipe that would simply never happen, I've got scores of private jobs done that way and not one complaint. They're all turbo wastes too so have very high l/per/min discharge capacity ( so 1 1-2" ( 40mm ) waste would not suffice, even on its own tbh for anything other than a very very short run to soil ). NEVER tee the two showers together, these must go on their own runs. Combining those runs with basins is fine, but never two showers on the same pipe afaic. Teeing a bath into a run with a shower and basin is pushing it, but if you have sufficient falls between each item or a good continuous fall from end to end, even that will work with an 'all 50mm' run to soil. Tee off the 50mm with 50mm pipe for the shower, and run 50mm as far as you can before reducing to 40mm, and for the basin, reduce at the 50mm tee to 40mm and run 40 as far as the vertical rise to the basin BEFORE reducing to 1 1/4" ( 32mm ) which will guarantee you never get anything coming out of the shower. If reducing to 32mm at the vertical rise, do so with a 40mm elbow with a 32mm reducer in the top of it. The sooner you upsize the pipe, the sooner you get the 'air break'. Im not a fan of strap on bosses tbh. The ones I linked are all solvent for the wastes ( if you select the one you buy accordingly and ask for the solvent inserts as required ) and push fit on the 110mm side so are very forgiving, easy to fit and no dodgy huge holes to drill and de-burr and then try to line the boss up spot on to. Fwiw I use SOBosses but only where I can get at them, or, if I've no other choice ( like on an existing / retrofit where I cannot get to the pipe to alter it ) but then I want the boss cut into the top dead centre of the pipe. Inwould never design SOBosses into a job where all the connections are under the boards / inaccessible, as the ones I linked are just far better, easier to fit, and far more reliable IMHO

Hi, and welcome to the forum. We have a few members here who have designed their own homes, so if that's an option and your feeling brave, then feel free to ask as many questions as you like . Just choose from the topics for the one that's closest to your enquiry and start a new thread. @Sensus will no doubt chip in as he's one of the experts in that field who reside here. Regards, Nick.

This one is the most problematic I'd say. It looks to have a coat of tanking / liquid DPM on there to me ( the black stuff ). Youll need to hack / scrape the plaster off this area as it's clear they didn't prep / apply with the correct procedures which is why the plaster is coming off in such big chunks. The first question is why the tanking was applied ? Is this an area below DPM level or with built up,ground outside ?

Always good to have the heating working properly at this time of the year . If that turns out to have cured it, can you update the thread to wrap it up please . Simple solutions are the valuable ones !

Never EVER is that a bad move. Beats the shit out of doing things twice at double the cost If you look at the fitting, it clearly has a line dissecting the two halves, and also a number of holes where integral moulded clips spring into to hold the two together. That tells me that this is DEFFO not designed to be used other than with gravity as its friend. Aside from that, I'd just never even consider using that in such an orientation, just from my gut feeling that it would end badly. I'd recommend fitting these and making the waste off with solvent NOT push fit wherever possible. You can happily run a single 2" ( 50mm ) from each bathroom with everything combined. Eg bath and basin combined, or shower and basin combined, as long as the pipe work is of course 50mm all the way from the T to the boss. Air admittance traps on the basins like these anti syphon ones will take care of any issues with the drop from the basin to the invert ( where it meets the soil under the floor ).

Replies will likely follow your attachment .

Agreed. My bad. ?

Looks like I'm minus an arse cheek. Sounds like the clock isn't turning ( Friday afternoon on the ars-sembly line ) Buy a new one and should be the end of it, but can you not take it back for a free replacement?

Also, can you check that at least one of the black wires is live @230v ( with the boiler supply switched on ).

Can you put a multimeter on 3&4 to check the switching action? Also, I take it you've moved the slider on the clock face accordingly ( on / timed / constant ) ? What exactly is the boiler doing / not doing?

Yup. Use square or radius ( quadrant ) for the horizontal runs, but ONLY use square for the vertical. Where two horizontal radius trims form a corner you get what I call "the dagger", the point at the corner. In a metal trim this is a flesh eater. If you come vertically with the 3rd radius trim you cannot form that corner ( unless you use a pre-formed 3-way junction piece from the same trim supplier ) without it looking like a pigs breakfast. However, if you come vertically with a square then it forms a 90o and marries up perfectly to the dagger point, making it a neat, safe junction.