Nickfromwales

Dee, all you had to do was check a few phone boxes and you've have found our sordid website. Good to hear from you . He decided that this was a path he'd rather not tread I'm afraid. I believe you can find him on the GBF . I do miss the grumpy old git

Ian, your not the antichrist. Don't be so harsh on yourself eh? . PS ✌️️

Shows they work Better stuck to the magnet than inside the boiler

Let's answer the op then. If the 38mm battens are through fixed at regular intervals where the WC fixings reside, then I see no issue, but it is a lot to ask at such small points TBH. Adding a horizontal wall plate, as I've done with 7" timber in my pics, would straddle 3-4 of the 140mm frame studs and give you some serious rigidity. Show your plumber the pics and see if he is OK to cut sections of the counter battens out and fit a similar plate arrangement. For belt and braces I then fitted the 40x40mm UniStrut and punched timber locks through the UniStrut, wall plate, air tightness OSB layer and into the frame studs. To demonstrate how good these fixings were, I stood on the front edge of the extra long projecting WC pans, after mounting them to the frames temporarily through a disposable plywood baffle ( to represent the PB and tile layer ) and bounced up and down on them. You could park a car on them ( 3 X WC's on that same elavation ).

You've answered your own question then, no glue it is. . I'd also reconsider sheets of OSB instead of T&G if your remit is to be able to lift the floor for any reason. T&G is a right pita if you want to lift sections without damage.

Can't you simply replace the WBS+BB with an oil fired unit? Simple, cheap enough to run, and idiot proof ( if your making sure they don't run out of oil that is ). How would you integrate E7 / E10 other to provide heating ? Would you fit an electric boiler ?

I was lured here under the promise of free beer.

Yup, that all makes good sense. . "Carry on"

@ryder72 Will your WC's be as I've pictured, eg, part height with a shelf top, or will your framework be floor to ceiling ? Do any cables or other services already reside in the counter batten spaces in the bathrooms ? I need those questions answered tbh so I can advise further, without going off down the wrong route, but at the moment I'd be looking at removing the 70mm PIR and removing all the 38mm counterbattens, and then over boarding the whole wall with 25mm ply, screwed through to the 140mm frame with 120mm self cutting heavy duty wood screws, repeated at 200mm centres. Then fix the frames directly to the plywood. ( The point that takes all the stress is the top fixings of the frame which go back to the wall, and there's a lot of 'pull' on those. If those dont get fixed properly then the frame will move and the plasterboard and tiles will move with it ). After the frames are fixed, refit the 70mm PIR over the plywood, around the WC frame, and you'll then gain around 83mm of floor space back to the room too. Is that an option?

This is how I did them . Have a look, and I'll add some details tomorrow.

Page 20 for flue optuons Page 23 for distances / clearances etc ?

Bugger. Forgot about those. Any sensitive stuff between the stopcock and those? Softener is, isn't it?

By the time you get the reading, the 'damage' would be done. Thats why they're mandatory on a multi-block / control group for an UVC. . SAPV's aren't cheap, a PRedV is ? For £15 I'd want to cover my install. Just saying

£15

Those pics aren't free FYI. Worth every penny though .

Meeting

Business

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In that case, I'd be happy with no PRedV, but I'd fit a 5 or 6 bar cold mains prv as a failsafe if it were me. That's a good recourse-mitigation measure against manufacture based warranties being refused .

I've got some pics on the iPad. I'll post them later + method after my "high powered business meeting" ?

Consider a plume management kit... Many different configurations are possible. ?

Annular 50's are what I use in the gas nailer to put flooring down if I'm on site on day rate. But, I make sure the glue is swimming, and that I stand, both feet, either side of where each nail goes in so the deck is tight to the joist. I prefer screws hence my patter in the Ebuild link. .

'Gassing' the appliance makes it a lethal device. You 1000% cannot and should not do this, REGARDLESS of how competent you consider yourself. Interrupting the gas supply is an offence, unless you can demonstrate that absolutely NO other 3rd party, including family, will EVER set foot inside that property. There is some bullshit loophole that people keep quoting about being legal when its 'just for yourself', but unless you have one key to the property and you can fully assure the H & S E that no other individual can enter then it's as I said, bullshit. Take a reality check, please, and go and do something else instead. Get your LPG GSR'd engineer out and pay him to do it. Anything else is lunacy.