Nickfromwales

Who designed / supplied / fitted your kitchen, if you don't mind me asking ?

You should be Wrens head of design. That looks more sensible than the last £11k effort they scraped together .

Wait until you have to carry it somewhere. ? Shes a beast ? but it's the bollocks.

Excerpt: SOIL AND VENT Ring seal soil and vent fittings to BS 4514. 110mm sizes to EN 1329-1. PVC-U. The nominal pipe diameters refer to the outside diameter of the pipe. Imperial/metric equivalents:3"/82mm and 4"/110mm. ?

Most likely. 100mm is most often found in ventilation, with 110mm being something totally different and best to avoid confusion ( particularly when ordering ). Typical 'wall' thickness for 110mm stuff is circa 3mm so 100+3+3mm. That 106mm if your not sure

A domestic shower can't be terminated to a non-vented outlet ( such as a tap ) It uses the open outlet do deal with expansion. The Steibel units seem the obvious choice, and with such low demand I'd make sure I bought the modulating one. Remember that will need a chunky supply cable ( 6mm t+e minimum but 10mm best if the run is long ) and a local isolation switch. The difference between a water heater and an instantaneous water heater is one stores heated water in varying sizes ( volume ) and the others are close to zero waste as they heat only the water you use ( like an electric shower does ). Site the heater between the two draw off points if possible to minimise the runs to each outlet.

And cheaper

Good to see you taking the shortest route to completing the bathroom

Yes. Dewalt call it a "troughing guide". Or was it the salesman? Can't recall now...... 4 minutes in ??

A good practice, I've found, is to get a line marker spray-paint and mark out the size and shape of the kitchen units. This is particularly handy when you have an island or complex shape so you can check for free flowing circulation space between the cooker, sink and fridge by walking the 'room' to see how well it works. Dont forget your cat 6 and coax cable if your planning a TV in there, and remember to plan early for the extraction ducting if installing one in addition to the mvhr.

Technically it would be 110mm, but agree, 150mm is way OTT.

It would be the only version of Big Brother I'd ever watch

I get where you're going with the step. The LED strip will be part-in the void left by the 'stagger' I guess, but what'll you do to finish the tile edge ? I'd prob do that tile cut and then turn it around so the factory cut is facing the void and the cut you make is against the trim, and then mitre bond an L shape trim to it to give a clean edge. I'd do a drawing but I'm on coffee #1 and just can't be arsed yet ?.

+1

I've got one of these, as well as a 4mm pass / 23mm rebating planer, BFOff router, and god knows what else that will try and take me out if I ever turn my back on it. When I use that chop saw, it's with the same concentration and respect every time. That would remove an entire hand without you even feeling it. I also use it to cut aluminium and brass tile edge trims, for the laser precise cuts, and it gets the heart pumping I can tell you. The one tool i strongly distrust / dislike / whatever is the 18v circular saw. Powerful enough to do all I ask of it, but underpowered enough to catch and bite. This lifts the saw up and out, backwards, straight towards you. My golden rule with the circular saws is never to be behind it, but always to be beside it and out of its path, should it decide to 'do one'. I put my 230v circular down a while back whilst the blade was still at near full wallop. Only problem was I hadn't used it for a while and the first cut saw the blade guard wedge at top dead centre leaving the full blade exposed. When that hit the concrete floor I nearly shat a brick. Must have travelled at least a metre in about a half second, but with my lobster like grip only tightening as my stupid brain refused to let it go . Watch yourselves people, as power tools don't take hostages.

And can I talk you through taking the cover off and taking a pic of the back of the clock? Those grasslin clocks are just about as reliable as you can get, so I'd bet my arse it's wired ( arse ) backwards . So, with the power switched off.......... The pic you've taken of the clock shows a silver screw. It has a matching buddy the other side. Loosen and remove them and the panel will swing down. You'll see a square panel at the back of the clock which is the retention 'plate'. It'll have two smaller screws at two opposite corners.......remove those too. Remember how it comes off as its a pita to get back on . Once the screws have been removed from the plate lift it off. The clock is now free to move and certainly will. Take a pic of the wires as clearly as you can and post back. My money is on the number one common fack up, which is the 230v mains connected to the volt free contacts of the switch, and the switching pair on t'other ( motor feed ). Other than that it could be that they took the short cut ( avoided connecting it ) and left the factory 4-way moulded block in there ( which connects the switching pair together so the boiler will work for heating and hot water as normal, and isolates the mains feed also ). Go get your screwdriver.

@Calvinmiddle Did it work, and then stop working?

IP cameras you say? I'll take the night watch, safety first folks

Tidy. Everything I can see there I can cut n shut. . Thanks for the pics. ?

Thanks. I want some for my boys room. Is that 4-core cable, and can you cut and alter it?

Do you have a link to the ones that keep their colour through power on / off events please? ?

That is looking a LOT like a bathroom.

? ☔️

They're not going into your spam email are they?