Nickfromwales

My little 12v Dewalt drill was, without exception, lb for lb, the best tool I ever owned. It just kept going and going, and worked its ass off until I sold it after a few good years of service ( after I'd switched to all makita ). It went in working order, and I'd not be shocked if it's still going well. The new 10.8v stuff from both manufacturers are really good bits of kit for occasional use, and my mates own them and abuse the hell out of them but they come back for more. Theyre a little overpriced IMO, but if you go for the badge you have to pay for it

I hope you've got a treat lined up for your missus . I doubt chocs and flowers would put a dent in it though Hats off to you both, great effort. And +1 to child labour.

This is why your bathroom is taking so long.

Even better if they haven't battened yet. No nail holes .

The only way would be for the tool to have a built in battery which charged off a standard charger / plug but that would see the tool out of commission until charged again. A bit like our phones etc. Makita, and a bunch of batteries for me

@recoveringacademic Makita + twin fast charger with USB is the way my friend. ? 2 batteries charged from cold in 30mins plus my phone is on 100% all day thanks to the USB port inbuilt in the makita charger ? How much Bosch stuff do you have?

I could post you my one which works in my van ( charges the iPad albeit slowly ) to try ? If it works I'll buy another the same and you can refund me. Saves the Frankenstein chop . That said, I don't know if your solution may offer a faster charge rate ?

You can remove the 38mm batten without problems, bar one. The MBC boys usually gas nail these on so you'll be left with open punctures of the airrtight board. Simply apply some Siga / other branded tape over EVERY nail hole and your good to go. They serve no purpose other that to provide a service ( cable / pipe / other ) void, nowt for ventilation / other . Penetrating the airtight panel is fine as long as the screw goes in and stays in. Try not to put longer screws in than absolutely necessary so as to mitigate any minor interstitial condensation risks. A squirt of CT1 ( not silicone ) wouldn't hurt TBH but if this is supervised ( so these disciplines actually get observed ) then you'll be fine.

My cheapy Chinese fag lighter ones in my Pajero won't charge the iPad, but charge the iphones nice and quick. Rated 2.1a but the iPad just doesn't want to know. It sometimes says charging ( little ⚡️symbol after the batt % ) but either goes down not up, or says incompatible charger / accessory / other such 'Apple related' bollocks. Iphone works fine on any foreign adaptor, but I do always use genuine leads. I get more grief from wankers selling 'genuine apple product' leads which are clearly rip offs. I have Ebay sellers 'followed' now who sell genuine ones cheap enough. Our fault for going apple

The reason the iPad won't charge in the car or other PSU is that the iPad is 'current hungry'. Try an iPhone and I bet it'll charge fine.

Nope. The bolts on a close coupled cistern sit inside the cistern, and are fully immersed in fresh oxygenated water, as you flush daily. They rust, and yes they're bright zinc played ( BZP ) and shouldn't, but they do. Unless you pee battery acid, and haven't sealed the pan to the tiles, your BZP bolts on your wall hung pan & frame will live a long, happy life. ?

Deffo good enough for concrete, and I allow a day per 2mm for dry screed. See the customers moan when they have to wait for the tiles to go down. ? Got to go behind Everest and re lay one of their conservatory floors, ( laid in haste over liquid screed ), and not one single tile has stayed stuck down.

Your boy is living the dream. Who needs Toys r Us, eh ?!?

Is there an electromechanical option at all? Something I don't believe we've looked at yet, iirc? Or have we?

Perhaps we could have a bit more meaningful contribution please, rather than just bumping the previous 'information' . The management.

The reason it was blue and gritty...... Ta-daa

Did they do any prep of the surface prior to the application?

Did it / does it get sealed?

Deffo in the top plate. Better than compromising the 'tank' imo. You'll have to make the cistern as airtight as poss though. Have you thought of pioneering the "vacuum evacuator 3000" ?

That was a cracking deal, and they must have been shifting to get that pace ! Even better that it was a quality job. I did have a father son duo that were just machines. Start at 07:00 and finish by 14:00 every day. Gutted I lost touch with them. ?

I only open my mouth to change feet

Whoever is renting them won't give a shit TBH, and will no doubt just numb the issues with Stella. .

@divorcingjack I think your panicking over a quite insignificant item here. For starters, the cupboards / units have kick space so are immediately isolated from the floor, ( by the legs of the unit ), so the only 'worry' is over the bin. My bin, out of circumstance, is next to the kitchen rad, literally 70mm away from it. As I bought a good quality Curver bin with a good swing lid I don't ever smell any guffs from it unless the kids have wedged something in there and the lid won't shut. Bearing in mind that food waste is separated now ( at least in Wales ) so what exactly is going to stink? Relax, and move on to worrying about how expensive a floor tile your missus will take a shine to

At least the glass is a bit obscured. Not great if the mother in law is visiting and asks to use it "More tea, vicar?"

And a potato.