Nickfromwales

Right now I'm just about to secure work which will take me beyond June . What's your schedule ? PM or give me a buzz, you still got my mobile number ?

@bassanclan I wasn't a plastic fan, but after reading @JSHarris's conclusions on EB I had no choice other than to realise that it's undeniably more practical in certain installations. Having a manifold gives you the non-localised isolation benefits, part commissioning, and much better flow to the outlets vs standard / series plumbing. If you wish to reduce the number of runs / manifold ports simply tee the WC's off the bath cold or basin cold and run 15mm instead of 10mm. Remember that wall hung / concealed WC's will already have built in localised isolation so it's just down to having hidden T's etc where you can't get to them afterwards. Fwiw, if I were plumbing my own house from scratch I would 100% deffo be doing 'point to point' continuous runs of Hepworth plastic for a ( hidden ) joint free installation. It's a no brainer tbh, and even though I'm currently plumbing two 2 bed flats completely in copper as we speak, ( standard series plumbing so push fit joints are a no go due to size / practicality / cost ), I'd still convert when the job dictated it. With posi-joists it's just like pulling electrical cable in, and you could DIY first fix a large property, with a labourer to help handle the coils, in a few days. It also removes the risk of hot works which is a huge worry in a TF house. Have a sit down and reconsider your position with the copper, and that's coming from a die-hard copper fan. .

What about cleaning the excess off the tile face after spreading it around / in ?

Another 40 posts and you get keys to the BH executive bathroom .

I bet he does lol. Prepare to eat your words

I've never seen a taper board in less than 8x4.

Nope. That will move the paper further away and remove any purchase the screws had. Screwing into the plaster of plasterboard will be worthless in terms of fixing. .

A 5mm shadow around the flush plate sleeve is fine as it's only the tile you need absolutely snug to it. <3mm or you'll see the cuts around the flush plate, it's really that tight a tolerance.

The pump needs to be suited to the appliances max output ( sustained ) so sounds strange to me. . Most pumps can be set to their lowest setting on the side of the pump, whilst some are 'intelligent' and do this themselves, so quite bizarre TBH.

Yup. . Supply and demand. Try and sell someone £1000 worth of insulation and tell them it'll save £200 a year on gas and see what the knee-jerk reply is. I spec'd 200mm of cellotex under the last conservatory UFH floor, and then caught the builder actively trying to talk the customer out of doing it behind my back. Customer reported that they often didn't need to use the UFH as the tiles were quite comfortable in comparison to the ice cold existing slab inside the bungalow. "Draughty house sir? Don't worry, we'll fit much bigger rads".

It sometimes helps to stop short cycling, ( pump turning on and off repeatedly if the produced heat and flow exceeds the current demand of the load ) eg like you blowing down a straw but your finger is covering the end. Another use is to combine the output of two ( or more ) like sized appliances, eg if you wanted 2 X 15kw ASHP's ( to combine their output to get say 28kw output ) then you'd connect both of them to a low loss header so they could both pump / circulate to the header, modulating accordingly if required, whilst free flowing. Then another pump would be used to draw off the header to service the load in accordance with demand. I priced a job a while back which would have needed 3 ASHP's which would have been connected to a LLH, but not requiring their combined max output. I over spec'd the job so it could run off 2 whilst the 3rd was down for maintenance / repair but all 3 would combine for low output, long life operation. Good option for failsafe where one huge heater would suffice, but multiples would be laboured less and offer redundancy.

Anyone have any input on this ? Looks good, but may need to sell a kidney ? Discuss please ( @JSHarris I'm sure you've mentioned transparent / semi-transparent Pv panels for the side of your house ? ). @joe90, You'll remove the excess heat in your conservatory pretty damn quickly, so I think you'll soon see any attempt to capture that will be non cost effective IMHO. Anything you do capture would probably still not even cover depreciation and ongoing maintenance / future replacment of the heat recovery equipment, and would be damn obtrusive / ugly too. Id recommend some openers with electromechanical actuators linked to a room stat to just dump excess heat to atmosphere. That would stop the early morning / midday overheat from massively affecting the rest of the house, but it would just be a guess as to what it would do to the mvhr. Will this room have doors to isolate it from the adjoining room?

If its on brackets ( like gallow brackets ) then start from scratch and bin that one. Your SE won't be happy otherwise and that = no competition certificate .

Leave that one in, remove the blocks, and whack the new one on top of that one. Pointless binning it.

A tip for the future . If you want to notify someone that you've responded to a thread, just type their username in by typing @ then typing the first letter of their username. Like this @RichS ?

Sorry, I've overlooked this . Vaillant are pretty much consistent across the range, so it's purely down to sizing. A 24kw will get you a single shower room and heating a plenty. For a bath, you need a 28kw, but no more. You can go up from there but only if it's justified, all the way to the whopping 938 heatstore combi.

Does sound like the 2-port is passing. My mate told me "tee off the return once, then tee off that spur as many times as you like, but don't tee off the return more than once!" He was a wise man, and still is .

Tres bien.

That won't fit behind a Close Coupled pan A bent pan connector will fit perfectly and are cheap as chips. You can get them with a 30mm boss built in to take the basin waste.

Pan connector goes onto the pan outlet. Pan outlet is the bit the pan connector goes on to. A frying pan is TOTALLY different.

The actual reality is that with a pan connector and its immediate connective pipework there is a lot of velocity ( flow / force ) to hammer said items through the first metre or so of pretty much whatever you like to 'throw' at it. Ive seen such things, as in the "dogshit" pic afore-posted, which have been working for decades without a single complaint. "I ? you not"

Aren't they standard?

Garden hose with the attachment on fine mist spray. Feed it down from the bog side past all the 45's etc and pull it slowly back leaving it run at the outlet for a good 10 mins after. The narrow hozelock spray head before you say you can't get the pistol one down there

Chuck a bucket under the flush pipe and hold a 40mm bend over the end of it. Let it ripp and check its flushing ok. ?

That would probably do a better job