Nickfromwales

How is the osb holding up to being exposed? Did you varnish / seal it?

So what constitutes moveable? If I build mine so the sides are bolted together as loose panels, and the floor is a stilted platform, what about the roof? FYI I wanted one 7.5m long mono pitched roof from end to end, over a 6.1m shed, so short overhang road side and long one door end.

Mines going on a timber ring beam ( already done ) suspended up off the soil. 5" of eps in the floor. My question is do I need to sheath the underside so nothing burrows upwards into the eps? @Ferdinand, good point about the cat gap . Noted, and will be implemented.

Not quite... Firstly, is your bathroom all in one room? If so ( assuming you don't have a cloakroom with separate bath / sink ) it couldn't be easier. The 15's come off, balanced, from the UVC and multi-block, then they simply feed the shower and basin, teeing off accordingly. Feed the WC off the same unrestricted branch as the outside tap, and if possible also use that to feed the washine machine. Same balanced 15mm pair to the kitchen sink. Flow restriction to the WC is the main thing imo, but with only 3 bar coming in I'd not lose any sleep if you don't do anything other than tee off where easier.

Yup, not a job I'd have been envying, but looks better than some I've seen done by builders ( on their mothers side ) round here. ?

Static or automated ? Saw one that size which closed itself if it rained ( didn't ask how much it was though ). Rumour has it the A8's are powered by nuclear reactors. They're beasts.

That reduces the flow rate though so not always best practice imo

Not just that, but it also reduces the flow velocity making modern basin taps much less aggressive when inadvertently opened fully. No more unwanted fountains. .

It depends on what the difference is between your incoming mains pressure ( static ) and the pressure of the PRedV. If for eg the supply is giving you 4 bar and the PRedV is set to 3.5 bar then there's little to worry about, and preventing damage to the UVC from back-flow ( pressure ) from mixer taps can simply be dealt with by fitting a 22mm single check NRV on the DHW outlet of the UVC. That's applicable if you choose NOT to fit a second PRedV at the stopcock, so will have an potentially unbalanced system. NOTE : UVC manufacturers will stipulate all this in their respective MI's so this isn't a topic for choice, were just discussing differing ways of satisfying those requirements If you have multiple WC's then it's worth the effort of taking the cold feed from the unrestricted cold main ( so directly after the stopcock and supply NRV ) and, if the static incoming main is less than 5-6bar max, feeding the WC's off the unbalanced cold feed. Then you'll ideally want to fit flow restrictors in each WC to stop water hammer, reduce fill related noise and arrest the unregulated flow so as to have as little impact on the dynamic flow to the UVC and balanced house system.

I only land the joints if it's 18mm flooring, but tbh I don't bother with 18mm flooring any more unless it's over joists at 300mm centres. 22mm deck glued and fixed down properly will be rock solid regardless, as its no difference really between the long joint being unsupported between joists vs the short as they're t&g all round. There is a little argument if the joist are at 600mm centres, but that's rare as most TF houses I've seen have been 400mm anyway. I did one where the joists were at 600mm but the flooring didn't bother me, I was more worried about the huge amount of detectable deflection when bouncing on the floor Plumbers and sparks delight .

Perfectly good for a couple of quid more.

Re the shower. Just fit a surface mounted bar mixer. Any one that uses standard 150mm centres, so changing it is a 5 minute job ( and change of £100 ). ? Keep remembering "it's a renter, it's a renter" .

Yup. Unfortunately G3 requires the PRedV ( multiblock aka control group ) to be mounted at the UVC location ( iirc within 500mm of the cold inlet for some MI's ). Therfore you have to take a balanced cold feed, tapped off said block, back to any mixer outlets upstream. I combat this by doing what J suggests above, but for G3 you MUST have the manufacturer supplied PRedV at the UVC as it also incorporates a 5 or 6 bar cold mains PRV to mitigate against the PRedV failing. Regs folks, wonderful regs. Fwiw, @Crofter can easily choose between either discipline as his hut is quite small

JG SPEEDFIT has inherent flaws imo. Firstly it's not a single action install. You have to loosen the 'nut' to free up the moving parts inside, then, after inserting the pipe ( with insert fitted ) you then must fully re-tighten the nut to grip the pipe. After that, you need to then fit a separate plastic circlip between the nut and the ring to stop the fitting from accidentally being released and failing catastrophically. Now with Hepworth, Cut pipe Push in the ( much thinner ) insert. Push pipe in. Drink beer. Theyre chalk and cheese.

Not a problem TBH, as with an UVC you'll need to fit a PRedV and have it set at 3-3.5bar max . Modern plastic is rated at 10bar cold so you'll only ever see less than half its max operating pressure.

A PHE is a PHE, so, ahem, put it where you like. . The helio unit doesn't look that well suited to a low temp input to me, others may think differently. It's basically a TS with PHE's instead of an integral coil, ( admittedly with the added benefit of the better heat transfer characteristics from the PHE ), but will still start cooling quite quickly. That would need a dual cyl stat arrangement to ensure the HP kicked in nice and early to maintain the set temp accordingly. At that stage you'd just fit an UVC . If the buffer is disconnected from space heating then that Helio unit is a way complicated and high maintenance option.

?

Hi and welcome .

Haven't long done the SiL's bathroom in West Malling

They're just being dicks. That'll work perfectly well, and hydraulically is no different to a 12 port manifold imo. The only thing I'd do if going that route would be to make the second pair of rails slightly higher so the air vents naturally to the end of both of the runs. Going for an extra pump and blender is just way OTT, but if you want the warranty then the balls in their court. Fwiw, I'd do that job happily with the proviso that if it didn't work I'd not charge you for doing it. Waters been traveling through bends in pipework for quite some years now, so I don't see why your designer thinks that has stopped for whatever reason ( cos it hasn't ). This decision is for you to make . Have they commented on being able to have it vertical with air vents at the top? The pump and blender could still stay horizontal. Bend kits to link the two are commonly available btw.

http://www.uheat.co.uk/140w-m2-electric-under-wood-laminate-heating-mat/?gclid=CNvckPueodMCFbQW0wodaFkPfQ An option if your willing to float the floor?

Ok. Thinking cap on ? Have the pump and blender then a 5 port manifold. Take irons ( brass fittings ) out the ends of both tails, perform a 180 turn and fire back into a 7 port manifold directly in front of the 5. That should stop the second manifold short of the pump bleed screw and leave you enough room to dismount the pump for replacement. Get your plumber to use all compression fittings on the flow and return pipework, gate valves as soon as the F&R enters the cupboard and a drain off cock so you can easily remove the lot in minutes with just a spanner and screwdriver. ? Sorted.

Also differs for fire doors . @Crofter, if you can do what you've done so far then you'll be fine with daft stuff like skirts and arc's. Get a chippy to give a unit price for lining, door swung with furniture and arc's and then just skirt to them. Fitting flooring first would be ideal, is it wooden / carpet ?

Just stay away from Rawl. Not good in my Hitachi.

How's it look S/H? It's just got foam around the tappings. Prob ordered in for someone who didn't want it and they're pushing it.