Nickfromwales

UVC is what your after, isn't it? ?

Penis

Managed to get my first ever Draper laser, shaped like a small beer keg, to come back to life ( with a lot of remedial shaking and then Neanderthal like bashing ) and I proceeded to then tile a 6m long wall with it. 2 rows of brick mosaic for border, plus another single row at picture rail height, it was a thing of beauty. The FiL of the customer ran his hands over it and exclaimed "not a single kicker, you should be very proud of that tiling young man". Then I realised it was running uphill ? The airing cupboard at the end of the bath saved my ass, as I could correct it there but was still gutted nevertheless

You can use it to tile your bathroom, and it sends you uphill by 2 degrees and you have to pull it all off and start again. ( ask me how I know, genuinely ).

Designers, eh? ? So, can we assume they have already suggested separating the pump and blender from the rails?

That'll be chiselled into my gravestone mate. 100 mph, and realised today we need a new 32mm water main, from the pavement in, as one flat has sprinklers. Lol ( not ) ?

Weld it on top so it's resting on the foot of the UB instead of hanging from underneath? If you need to crack on, that with 50mm stitches every 100mm should suffice. It's Russian roulette without specs though.

I borrowed my mates one when I didn't have the Bosch and a fantastic, rugged unit for the money. He's had his for a good 5/6 years and it's had a hammering and is still going strong.

A £50 laser will be a £50 laser .

Use the laser to set out and a once your happy you then set the laser beam to sit in the grout line ( 3mm grout line and no more, I routinely do 2mm ) and have it on as you tile each area. The laser lights up the spacers to give you a good guide as to how your going. Cracking unit for the money here, and I'd buy the dewalt over the green ( DIY ) Bosch every time. You'll also sell the dewalt on again without taking too much of a hit .

The Don.... Bosch 3 X 360 degree bad boy A good price here but I bought locally so as to have a no quibble return. Bosch give you an excellent warranty for 3 years. My brand new one developed a fault after about 2-3 days of use ( Friday model ) and I had a brand new one with no questions asked less than a week later. My one before that lasted 5/6 years and got kicked and dopped more times than it should. Always completely accurate. Great for putting stud walls up

Pure gold. Pmsl x 3

Some other good reading, especially the tanking one.

Just to relieve you of any doubt, I can often lose an entire morning drawing out datums and finding 'faults' with this line-out process. . Pays dividends though, as the number of numpties that I've see who just start laying from the flat deck of the bath, because it's easiest to start, and who then end up with terrible rips and slivers everywhere, begs belief.

Right, take two ? Typed under the assumption you have a laser level. If you haven't, then buy one lol. Anyhoo... Id go landscape with that size tile but it's not my ( or your ) bathroom ( it's swmbos ) so see how that works out. . Your bath is the focal point, so you need to get the cuts looking good on that first. Ping a line around the room from the horizontal deck of the bath, and see where the bottom tile will end up at the shower corner, holding a tile on the line and counting down. Your right, you'll need to extend down past the floor / wall junction to reach the lowest point of the wet floor so see how that ends up looking. Once you have established a happy medium between the bath top edge, and the shower bottom edge you'll have a datum line for your first grout line from the floor. Use a tile to mark each grout line up the wall and then grab the laser and sit it on each line from floor to ceiling. Check the lines for conflicts with things you want to tile to / around, like the pocket shelves and raise lower it according to how much play your first line-out will allow. I always set the pocket shelves out, where possible, to be divisible between one or two tile courses, so you have factory edges to set the chrome trim against. See pic. Those trims are against the uncut tile edges and it makes life, and tiling, much easier and neater of you can work this all in together. Iirc, you've already made the boxes for the shelf to reside, so all the more important to carry out my first rule, which is to set out and ping lines around to get the best datum / start point, according to which one will NOT give you a tiny rip at the top of the bath or around the pocket shelf. After that, check the window for cuts and then repeat with the vertical, again checking that you'll not end up with any near misses or small slivers of tile. Make any sense?

I hid that whilst it was WIP so I'm confused how you grabbed a quote off it I typed a load of text out and then it vanished, lost to the never ending vortex of the tinternet, never to be seen again. I then started typing again and then it was "get off the iPad and put the girls to bed!" so I'll chuffing well try again. This editor is NOT the greatest Give me 5.........

Option 2 is fine, but I'd use 2 x 45* bends instead of 1 x 90* on each run. Youll be able to rod back from the shower to the soil with ease, and if you do the same at the invert for the basin you'll be able to back rod that all the way to the soil too. .

Sextons are good for MT and recip so should be ok for circ .

Let the magpie-ing begin.

Thread tidied this morning to remove off topic content. Any questions, please feel free to contact the mod team. Mods.

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No thrashing then ?

Or, purely for my entertainment only, go into SF with a tree branch and thrash them all with it, Basil Faulty style. .

Treat 'em mean, keep 'em keen Dont tell her I said that ok

It's cheap as chips stuff too. @Alexphd1, I know what I'm making my new BBQ table from now, many thanks for the pics .