Nickfromwales

I use this or this and never get yellowing. I always wipe the excess spray off, but with MDF or pine I've never had any issues. The spray will run out quicker than the glue so get some spare cans . For the skirting and arcs I would deffo hire a second fix nailer. The cost will be offset by the speed at which you can fix the arcs and skirts, plus the saving of not having to fill sand and re-finish them. Screwing them can cause them to be pulled in and create undulations in MDF, but not so problematic in pine / timber.

?. As brittle as terracotta ? 25mm thick terracotta tiles have been used since man 'needed' a nice looking floor covering If the floor is prepped and primed accordingly, and these are laid in a good quality flexible tile adhesive then I really can't see any problem. These are suited to the most harsh environment, eg outdoors, so inside your home would be a pleasant change for them. My only reservation is how square and neat a slip you'll be going for, as an engineering grade slip will chip on any exposed corner / edge with ease and could soon look worse for 'wear'. I assume you'll grout them with a sand cement mortar to mimic the facade?

+1, but the linings have to be spot on to pre make the arcs. I'm suprised no-ones actually told you this is a 'screw only' job . You'll not be nailing these directly to the studs as they're not / won't be A) good enough or B) the correct dimensions. The norm is to set one side plumb and level, and pack accordingly, screwing through or directly next to the packers. Then the frame will then be X distance short of meeting the opposite side stud, so will also need packing and screwing accordingly. Before I go into chapter and verse, are you familiar with how to make a lining up ready to offer into the opening? Eg sized and square etc.

I wouldn't go lower than ~14 volts for high drain tools like saws etc. 18v and 4.0ah seems a great combination for most of my kit, with my SDS drill taking 2x 18v to make 36v.

I wouldn't surface mount the strip for any reason whatsoever. This is not an area that you want to have any possible weak points As said, it's not for us to decide, it's your BCO who will be giving / not giving the completion certificate so theyve got the final say.

The new batteries have charge indicators on them. A little button and 4 LEDs to show how much juice is in it. Also seriously consider going brushless, ( induction motors ) as they wear, and seem to operate, far better. Less chance of 'burning' them out too. Live just upgraded from the old 165m makita to the brushless one ( complete with onboard battery indicator ) and it's far better. Unless you see yourself using the recip and grinder a lot I'd just buy the circular saw, case, chart and batteries ( 2x 4.0ah are plenty, I think the 5&6's are way OTT tbh ) and then just buy a 2-speed combi drill for general drilling / screwing etc. When an impact comes up cheap, naked, then add that if so required. I have a 2-speed 18v makita combi drill / driver I could let go of you are ok with used ?

Wash your mouth out ? All the girls from Essex are wholesome churchgoing folk.

Check out @TerryE's blog for the one thats ready to go.

Don't buy either, stop running out of oil, and save all the expense for when you change to the TS / UVC+buffer. . It ain't broke so don't fix it ?

Multi-Tool with a bi-metal blade and some masking tape set 5mm higher than the cut as a depth gauge. No prob hitting a nail with an all purpose blade . If theres a lot to lift then I'm with @Onoff with the circular. @Ferdinand, are these being left exposed or is there flooring going down after?

Just need to look at how much sun the new shed roof will get through the day ?. Already thinking of a giant ( 1500-2000L ) DIY TS to go before the combi for DHW preheat / uplift, heated by my chimnea, but I had also thought of reclaimed panel radiators paints black for DIY ST too, just the weight had put me off as I'd have to beef the shed up to take it. Beer can collector should be a lot lighter ?

Strange, as the BCO usually tells the plumber what the requirements are and then leaves them to execute it, but if your guy has left you to interpret it and get a plumbers PoV then fair enough . BCO's down here are very helpful so good to hear yours is too.

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Good idea. A small 230v fan heater on its lower setting will work far better TBH. Try and get a <500w heater like this 200-500w one.

No, there is a better way . My local mechanic got fed up of people literally parking across his roller shutter doors, the only access to his business. He put two big signs up, on either side saying words to the effect of :- " Strictly no parking. Please be advised that vehicle vandalism occurs here. Smashed windows, dented panels, nails left under wheels on purpose, so park here at your own risk" etc. Works a treat. The fear of something happening is usually more productive than it actually being done, as people can get angry if not warned and "something" happens, but they can only be remorseful if it happens AFTER they accept the "risk".

Your BCO is being really ridiculous here IMO. The furthest WC on that run ( ensuite ) immediately runs to horizontal, therefore you'll immediately get an air-break ( water sitting low in the pipe so air can travel in the remaining gap above it ), so it's total nonsense afaic. For the ensuite basin, just fit one of these and tell him to go back into his cave. That air admittance trap will also cover you for the ensuite shower connection so nothing needed there either. The ONLY time that run will see the vacuum deficit that the air admittance is there to mitigate will be when the slug of water from the flush drops vertically, eg at the main stack 'drop', and that is covered by the stack being vented to atmosphere, so I really don't see any issue here at all. And where the hell did he get 25mm pipework from? 32mm would be the standard and you can get a 32mm AAV.

Can you give Paul some examples of how he can 'run' some numbers Nick? @readiescards, are you planning on using multiples of those little heaters? Maybe better to add some more batteries as well as panels to create a buffer, also may give you some 'sustain' for when the sun goes in, as in the heaters will still run. Prob best to fit an audible low voltage warning so you don't inadvertently over-drain the batts. Do you have an inverter for the panels to run on mains voltage?

Ok, remind us why your raising them on platforms rather than everything flat on the floor please

At least she can now see your frustration Cant you get labourers and be there with them?

Ahh, the old "foot through ceiling". I've done that twice in 18 years, and remember them well Are the lights led or halogen, as per the previous comment ? I hope you bought your hubby a pint after he let you off the hook? I mean, poking a hole through the only ceiling you could retain is a pretty minor thing, but the warped wooden floor........unforgivable ( us guys have to stick together you know ). Keep up the good work !

Yea, it's making my head hurt Temporary building but can't be made of panels ? I thought that was the whole bloody point of it being a non-permanent structure, as in you could demonstrate that it's fully demountable ?!?

It's a big shed TBH, ? Prob need 4 of those to be on the safe side ?

Will you make me a helicopter, please? Use the motor off the electric wacker

Ok, so two L sections bolted at opposite corners to form the structure ?

I'll post a pic when I move my most recent consignment of firewood off the ring beam . Quite a bit came out of the current job, 2 transit tipper loads of bone dry sawn 3x2 / batten / laths. Ive done a ring beam 6.1m x 3.8m ( iirc ) and it's a 5x2 treated timber, sistered to get strength but with less depth / height off soil so it's flush-ish with the patio. Its on made up topsoil, 500-700mm in places so I dug down with a post hole shovel / tweezers thingamabob, until I hit clay, and made short concrete pads. On top of those are stilts I made out of treated 100x100mm fence posts, doubled up on the runs and trebled in the corners ( an L shape of 3x100x100mm sections bolted together to support the corners of the sistered 5x2"'s ). I part buried these in haste, but will dig them back out and make the depth up with blocks on flat until above ground. Live and learn. . Soil pipe underneath to take an outside WC and rainwater runoff from box gutter and shed roof downpipes.