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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Linky
  2. Nickfromwales
    That's going on my wall as soon as I get ink for the printer
  3. Nickfromwales
    If you stick to all hep and install in accordance with the MI's you'll be warranteed. If you mix n match you won't. Edit to add : I'd only use Hepworth fittings, they're just so much better than the likes of JG Speedfit.
  4. Nickfromwales
    1st floor bathroom and bed 4 are not having any windows ? ?
  5. Nickfromwales
    The answer could be none if it's Scottish Water and Einstein didn't fit 4 non return valves. .
  6. Nickfromwales
    Hi and welcome Phil. Any idea on the chosen type of construction yet? Once you've read the merits of PH levels it's hard to see standard building regs builds as anything other than just quite poor tbh. Any provisional plans to show off yet ??
  7. Nickfromwales
    @s2sap Something I've not added yet, but the Vokera is considered a very budget boiler. I don't ever fit them, and haven't even seen one for a few years . I'd put them in the same category as Biasi, HeatLine, Halstead and Ariston, as in I'd only ever suggest fitting one of these if someone was broke, basically. I wouldn't even recommend any of the former for rental properties as the reliability and longevity just isn't there. Ideal are a great entry level boiler with Glow-worm next in line, but those are again only for where the budget is tight. Worcester Bosch seem to have finally got their act together, but I'm still a Vaillant man. Baxi have dropped down a bit with their latest offerings so I'd place them at the Ford Focus end of the scale, with WB next, then Vaillant and Veissmann up top. Veissmann are a LOT of money for what they are, and I can't see how they justify it tbh.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Thanks ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Bigger combi = more DHW output. I fit Vaillant 937's ( now 938 erp ) when the remit is lots of hot water but nowhere to put a cylinder, or simply fitting an uvc is wasteful / overkill. The 938 ( 38kw ) is a heatstore combi which blends a small amount of stored water into the DHW output side to reinforce its DHW delivery. These are really good if you don't want / actually need a cylinder, and will still modulate down to 9kw when your heating demand is low. As prodave says above, the DHW coming out is only as good as the cold mains pushing it out of your outlets, so a survey is critical before actually deciding on an end solution.
  10. Nickfromwales
    ?
  11. Nickfromwales
    @MAB Sorry, I missed this somehow. If using tile adhesive, you need to be very sure there are no contaminants from manufacture on the underside. I've had a few which have some slimy stuff ( a mould release agent of sorts I suspect ) and nothing will stick to that. I'd use Sikaflex between the tray and the backerboard, applied whilst bedding the tray into the tile adhesive. Use that to create the fundamental seal between the tray and wall, and then tool the displaced sealant onto the BB to create an upstand seal ( have you read my comments in the tanking / wetroom thread )?
  12. Nickfromwales
    ??
  13. Nickfromwales
    Do you have a link for those lamps J ? I want to convert my outside lights and can't be bothered right now to change the entire fitting to led ones. Fed up with the halogen ones blowing all the time.
  14. Nickfromwales
    Sam Fosket is the guy I speak to regarding design / procurement etc, after a brief chat with the tech guys or Rodger ( the MD iirc ) for any fine-tuning. Excellent service and really happy so far with both product and price. A word of warning, DO NOT sign for the cylinder unless you have physically unwrapped and FULLY inspected it. Once you sign for it you own it, and they don't make exceptions to that rule. .
  15. Nickfromwales
    That's not exactly the benchmark for deciding on what's best for your house . Each install is reasonably unique to the occupants and DHW use, so there is no one-size-fits-all solution afaic, unless it's an guesstimate-sized solution unsympathetic to the actual needs of the property.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Chelmer = ??? Telford = ??? Telford most certainly do TS's, I've bought loads from them, mostly bespoke too
  17. Nickfromwales
    Have you selected a boiler ? You need to know how low it'll modulate eg to best match your low heating demand. For max efficiency it's either a TS, or a buffer and uvc but the latter needs room for the additional tank. Is your plumber 'up' on best dealing with the low energy requirements you have ? DHW is an aside, and much easier to spec.
  18. Nickfromwales
    @CC45 What's your occupancy pattern and typical DHW needs?
  19. Nickfromwales
    If your on oil it's a no-brainer...a TS would be best.
  20. Nickfromwales
    Are we talking liquid screed? 40mm screed with 10 off = 30mm left = not good. Should be 3-5mm off max?
  21. Nickfromwales
    Whack a 230v plug on, change the bulb and your good to go. If anyone else is ever to be around these then l would label the light to say 230v with a small sticker.
  22. Nickfromwales
    I remove that course of bricks on my jobs. I then just add another 25mm of edge insulation and run the floor insulation and screed right in. You may have to rebate the underside of the insulation to clear an step that removing the bricks creates, but the most important thing to observe here is NOT having offcuts of insulation here. This really needs to be one solid piece and then your guaranteed not to get any cracking issues where you bridge the cavity. Ensure that the vertical DPM detail is fully intact and your good to go.
  23. Nickfromwales
    Then you'll need accessible automatic air vents at each high point .
  24. Nickfromwales
    Happy days. Please update the thread as it'll be of interest I'm sure .
  25. Nickfromwales
    Get the tiles on
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