Nickfromwales

With a 10-30 year plan, I'd get the fundamentals sorted first tbh. Plumbing and electrics are fundamental IMO, and cosmetics can be retrospectIvely amended with ease, and little disruption, along the way. Get the floor void clear and cover it over, why create extra expense engineering future proof solutions to a problem you can swiftly neutralise now ? Now is your most economical opportunity to address these items, so better to spend once now than spend 3-fold later ( and worse if you have to remove a paying tenant to do so ).

Again, that's a pin gun not a brad nailer . 18g nails are extremely fine and great for hardwood and oak etc, but for a good purchase on softwood / MDF I wouldn't go for anything other than 16g. If your fixing fire doors then I doubt pins alone would suffice as the lining is subject to 30 or 60 minute rating too. Pins would probably suffice if your routinely glueing the full length of the material, but they are very fine with very little 'head'.

Cut the excess threads etc off the tank connector and Sikaflex it on. Then, zero projection into the cistern? The flush mechanism only affixes to the front of the opening iirc?

Good luck for the remainder of your efforts. Don't get lazy, and keep all your crap out of the builders way. I hate when people get in around me tbh, but you've had no choice so don't 'move into' unfinished spaces, just stick to the bedrooms and you'll keep momentum to the maximum . Keep pushing and driving so it doesn't stall .

Ah, just confirmed my fears by checking the pics. The last one clearly shows the gap behind / under the wall tiles, void of any sealant. That should have been fundementally sealed prior to tiling, which it's clear now has not been done. Guilty as charged edit to add : this is common tbh, and I see it all the time. I bet this was all in the installation instructions that came with the screen too .

Thanks. No.1 schoolboy error here . Absolutely NO sealant whatsoever should be on the inside of the cubicle / screen. What happens is the water sprays onto the tiles and vertical wall channels and capillary action sucks water into the slight gap ( where the screen profile pushes into the wall profile ), and the water then heads down. When it gets to the bottom, the idea is that it can freely flow out under the profile ( where your fitter has sealed horizontally inside ) and onto the inside edge of the bath, and find its own way to the drain. Because your installer has not observed this critical criteria you now have water filling up inside the chrome profiles, and it's finding any way out it can eg through the gaps your first pic denotes, and the same gaps inside. This screen needs to be removed from the bath, just the screen, and then cleaned and refitted less the excess / incorrectly appid sealant. You will not cure this if you try and cut corners sorry. Same for the sealant at the bottom of the wall channel. I will also bet my left nut that they also haven't put a bead of silicone across the bath / tile junction prior to the wall profile being fitted. That will promote a different, less obvious leak, where the water that collects at the bottom of the two profiles also then finds its way between the bath and the tiles and starts to cause some serious damp / leak issues with the wall and floors, which you'll be blissfully unaware of as it'll be behind the bath panel. Get your fitter back, and tell him to switch his phone off.

Wedi tend to be much thicker, so aren't even a contender for houses with posi / engineered beams. Impey are typically only 22mm so are far more favourable, but yes, not cheap. Diamond seem very good value for money, and I've fitted one and can report that they're nice bits of kit. Choose a better waste than the standard one though as its a little commercial looking IMO. Note the offset waste position which allows you to rotate the tray through 180o and that's usually enough to miss any joists.

Continue......

Also helps protect the wire a bit during the tile laying process.

Can we have a pic of the opposite side ( inside ) please? And a slightly zoomed out pic of the above. Is this a hinged panel, or fixed?

FFX seem competitive 16g edited to add : air is far more pleasant to use IMO.

And it fires sewing needles ( 18g not 16g ) so no good for second fix.

For second fix carpentry, This nice little compressor & This 16g Brad ( second fix ) nailer would serve you well.

Spend a few hundred, get the heating inboard, run a new cold mains under the floor and forget the void exists . The gas pipe being 'maintained' is just not going to happen TBH, and if it ever died you'd just find the pipe at the footings and bring it up into an externally mounted meter box. ( why not do that now, and run a fresh gas pipe out, first as last ( not knowing how long your retaining the property of course )).

Yup. Nope

No, TBH. The board needs to be continuous or you'll gets problems. Cant you just rip full lengths of 4 or 6mm ply and fully clad each stud?

Don't get camera shy .

It's giving me a headache just thinking about what a pita this must be. .

And you're still married......how?

Doesn't an external airtight layer start all kind of peripheral issues / more complex installation in view of the sequence of events when constructing a home, vs aitrighthess on the inside? ? Just trying to visualise the junctions, at roof level in particular, is making my head hurt.

All depends on how you valued the time it took to make yours

That's why pumps are actually referred to as 'circulators' .

Bring your own shovel ?