Nickfromwales

Do you have a link to the installation / service guides? edit to add : Does the unit have any discharge / overflow pipework / connections?

@PeterStarck If it's unvented then does it not already have a temperature & pressure relief valve factory fitted ?

? Im waiting on a call and I'll update. ?

Those will be around 1800mm high max for standard size, so how does the 660mm bode?

Okay, update. @jamiehamy Telford do the standard sized 400L at 660mm diameter plus immersions ( usually forward facing ) and that would be cheaper than the slimline. They can also do the 2x 6kw AND the 4x 3kw option, but I couldn't remember if you had pv or not ? For redundancy and longevity is suppose 4x 3kw would be the better option as you could switch from a dead immersion to a live one until the dead one was replaced. Just waiting for a call back from Trevor to see what size EV comes with the standard 400 as I'd probably recommend going a good 20% oversized to reduce the stress on the EV. Direct UVC's store at higher temps so better to be safe and have some spare headroom imo. Iirc the 500L is the same diameter but taller. Do you want a price on the 500 too?

Ok, Just checking if the slimline 400L is available in 2x 6kw ( dual ) immersion. Dimensions are 2100mm ( h ) x 544mm ( dia ). 2 years warranty on the EV and LIFETIME warranty on the ( all stainless ) UVC ?. Price for above is in the £1100 range, may be a bit cheaper as that's the price for the HP version ? Just waiting on a reply from Trevor. How does the above size suit?

HP or electricity only ?

@jamiehamy Rekind me if your ASHP / other please !

That's terrible. I'll make a call, gimme 5.

Yup. And also just as easy to swap an obsolete bar mixer for a new replacement. Ideal for rentals or if you don't want to fork out on an expensive concealed valve / can't change one out yourself for little pain / cost. I love the concealed stuff, hence my own tapless bath with 3-way wall mounted concealed diverter and overflow filler. ? Anyone who wants such looks should spend the extra on a reputable make like Triton, Mira, Vado or above so they know they can fit spares in the future rather than rip out and replace. Fwiw, almost all concealed showers are serviced / maintained from the front so you don't need to get to them. The only ones that cause issue are the ones sold for exposed OR concealed which have non return valves and also often inline filters fitted in the hot and cold elbows. They cannot be cleaned or changed without a full rip out, so flushing before connecting is of paramount importance. Manufacturers will check these with any warranty claim and if they can demonstrate such negligence they may charge for the repair. If the shower you choose has inline NRV's then take them out and put compression ones elsewhere in the supply pipework where they can be cleaned or inspected. The likes of Hans Grohe can be fully disassembled in situe so you get what you pay for with them, excellent product, easy to maintain, and long-term support and spares availability.

@jamiehamy You've got a good 50mm of immersion or more TBH so should be fine. Tech support should give you the exact so you know in advance that's it's going to fit. Didnt see the notification for this for some reason sorry. Have you allowed for getting it back out of it ever fails? What warranty are Megaflo offering ?

Because they can . A lot of the mid range sellers just put their stamp on mass produced cheapos and you pay the difference as it goes through another pair of hands that want their pound of flesh. Mine has been in for 3 years of constant use and abuse. Tbh I should have bought another for spares as the only unknown is how long you get support with the cheaper / unbranded items. As I can tile and plumb I don't really care, and I kept a load of spare tiles for such an eventuality, but you may want to go up a notch to ensure you have ongoing customer support and spares. As to what valve is in there, not a clue, but those have a 10 year guarantee and at that price you can buy one for spares or ask if spare thermostatic and flow valve cartridges are available to buy at the time of purchase. The flow rates are good too and they're WRAS approved whereas others are not.

Fit a bar mixer with 150mm centres and 10 years down the line when you need to change it you can fit any like bar mixer rather than hope you can get spares for a concealed one. Bar mixers can be changed in about 10-15 minutes, ideal for a rental.

The issue is what's left inside the pipe. With Laco you really need to flush everything well. For a quick experiment cover a new copper fitting in Laco and another in Telux and leave for 24hrs. The one in Laco will look like Kermit the Frog and the one in mild will look almost as it was when applied. That crud and green doom is doing exactly the same on the inside of the pipe, only you can't wipe that off with the rag . That's even worse if your not filling and flushing the same day as it's left inside to carry on oxidising. On new copper pipework and fittings Laco just isn't necessary as mild flux works perfectly. @PeterW, give it a try.

Why Laco? It's a monstrously strong acidic flux for cleaning old corroded pipe, and I only use it now and then for jointing onto ancient pipe. I use Telux mild flux, and on new pipe and fittings it's more than ample, plus there's no horrible green rash everywhere after use, like you get with Laco.

Stick to Hepworth . They're the next best thing to solder. Make tricky bends and crossover-passing-saddles with a pipe benders, and put a Hepworth fitting either side after it's bent / cut to size. A pipe bending machine will be your friend so try and grab a cheapo one or borrow one if you can. They're dead simple to use and I'll tell you how to pull different bends and sets. If your buying second hand, don't forget the guides / formers need to be with them, as a bender is useless on its own. ?

If it's a combi, fit a mixer. It's just night and day better than a regular electric shower, both in flow and how it responds to fluctuations in the water feed. A mixer shower will speed up or slow down but always maintain the set temp.

Chevy Chase Bill Murray in Caddyshack ?

Ask your mobile providers about a booster box to plug into your wifi router, like we got from EE after telling them we couldn't stay with them any more due to the signal being utter crap in our stone built cave. Now 5 bars of 3G throughout the house. Good to see the progress, that's a whopper of a house .

The motors are changeable but it's usually the gear / toothed rack or pinion that wear out, so I just change the whole head if it's a failed actuator, but the usual cause of those failures is a grotty valve that has started to sieze up putting excessive strain on the motor and gubbings in the actuator. Tbh, Anyone who asks me to change just the head gets the lecture, and I only change the whole valve as its usually just a short lived 'cure' otherwise.

I hope you've used big screws to hold it up

Honeywell all the way, you poor misguided fool. ?

Ahh, out of the mouths of babes. ?? The metal lever on the Honeywell valve will only ( manually ) open the gate valve, it won't fire the pump and boiler. Some other valves will, but not the Honeywell. The lever, when gently pushed all the way across to its maximum throw, will lock if you then push it over to one side. You'll see the little 'notch' where the lever catches, if you've missed it the valve lever will slowly return to its rest position and you'll have to try again. As peter says, if the lever won't go reasonably easily to the opposite position to where it resides when the power is off ( heating off / satisfied ) then the valve gate is siezed / U/S. @Dee Can you switch the heating and hot water controls off. Identify which zone valve does the heating, and manually push across the little metal lever, and lock it into place. Then turn the heating ONLY back on via the controls and run the heating. Once you know the heating is running, turn the controls off again. If the zone valve is working fully it'll have just un-latched itself and will return to the park position by itself. Energising the valve electrically with the normal controls will spin the motor inside and the mechanism that you move manually with the lever will travel a bit further ( internally ) than you can push it manually, which is required for the valve to hit the integral switch that turns the pump on and tells the boiler to fire. Once you have confirmed that the zone valve opens enough manually for you to latch it, and that it energises and releases itself automatically when powered on and back off again via the controls, you'll have conformed it is in working order. Off you go !

Well....it's not too shabby seeing as I'm from Swansea. It's not exactly just down the frog and toad now, is it? ?

A saddle is a type of clip. That, my old China mug, is a "crossover". ??