Nickfromwales

If no mvhr the trickle vents will be essential. They can be shut, remember .

Yes, but it'll have to be replaced elsewhere to comply. It can go outside on a rear elevation out of site and be reduced to 3" instead of 4" so can be made to look like a down pipe. Oh, and welcome @Joss ! ?

50p a cut after the first 4 free cuts Thatll be about £2k worth of cuts. I'll tile it for less

I cannot believe your going through with this ? Just mark out on the walls and get sticking !!!

+1

Is there any natural ventilation to the basement? If you can't use rockwool, can you not use polystyrene EPS instead ? Rockwool and foil backed plasterboard may work tbh, but it'll be a cold floor with such a small ( poor ) insulating layer otherwise. Even better would be to rockwool again, and then put full 8'x4' sheets of 30mm foil faced cellotex / king span OVER the joists, not in-between, and cover all the joins with 4" foil tape. If you aren't bothered about looks just leave it as is, or gets some long PB screws and PB it.

Save the image to your device first, then click the 'click to choose file' button. . You cant paste an image in afaik. Allow me ?

Yup. Their a real pita. . Just tip a box onto a clean surface and see what'll end up in your fingertips .

Hi David. Always good to have a new member with a background in H&S . Stick around and see if you can contribute to some of the help threads in the relative topics and who knows, in exchange for some knowledge...... . Advertising is a no no as were a discussion board, so if unsure just have a read through our Terms and Conditions ?

You only need one vent to atmosphere and the rest can be AAV's. The vent to atmosphere is purely a requirement, per dwelling, to vent the gasses that acclimate in the sewerage network rather than what your home produces . The vent can be outdoors as a dumb riser off the foul water manhole and be in smaller 75mm ( 3" ) soil pipe. It can be at the rear and out of site or even at ground level at the periphery of the plot, hidden by plants.

+1. The reason it's a fibre washer is because the anode is sacrificial, so will need inspecting and replacing with some frequency. I'd try taking the anode out, filing the mating steel surface to get rid of any imperfections, dabbing a bit of hammerite on the then exposed metal and reinstall with a new fibre washer. Do NOT use any lubricant or jointing compound as the fibre washer will displace outwards when you rotate it and it tightens. . It needs to be clean and as dry as possible to seal.

Above the top of the WC pan makes sense, but as high up as the basin overflow could be right. Downstream of the AAV would have to be blocked solid for this to be an issue, but as soon as the water got as high as the WC pan it's going to oveflow there way before the basin trap.

Posh ones Not so posh ones Both available in different sizes.

As they have moving parts they can fail. If they fail, you get foul stench coming out of them. Basically they allow air to be sucked into the sewer when the loo gets flushed and the falling pipework had a full slug of water in it, falling vertically. For a short period during this event, in some pipe arrangements ( but most problematic where it falls one or two floors ), you get a vacuum created in the soil pipework.That vacuum can suck water out of basin / shower / bath traps and then foul stench can come out of them, until waste water replenishes the traps. The AAV is there to mitigate against that problem. You could argue it out with the BCO that a basin trap with AAV inbuilt would suffice if the invert between the soil outlet of the WC and where the groundworks soil turns back to horizontal ( heading to the manhole ) is less than 1300mm. A 110mm AAV would be overkill in that scenario, and if you can demonstrate that working to the BCO they should agree to let you do away with the 110mm AAV and just stick with the basin / other aka secondary mitigation measure. Some Bco's are stubborn and won't agree to that in principal but they should be ok after a successful demo. If it's falling more than iirc 1300mm it's a 110mm AAV every time.

Well spotted. But the strangest thing is it should really be the space where the room stat is . It's a bedroom according to the schematic.

If possible don't use acrylic aka ready made tub adhesive as it takes eons to dry out and needs porosity to dry properly. Id recommend using standard set dry ( powder ) adhesive and you'll have a good hour to work with it before it starts to stiffen. When you notice the mix starting to stiffen in the bucket you must scrape out and bin it. NEVER EVER add water to a dead mix to reconstitute it. Don't mix more than you can use in an 1/2-3/4 hour is the rule. ? With the primer, make sure the first application goes on liberally and cover up any adjacent surfaces as this stuff sticks to things it shouldn't. .

Sand the walls briefly with 40 grit paper. Buy this and water it down 50/50. Give it a good brushing and leave it soak in for an hour. You'll see the first coat soaking into to wall and the second coat will just reseal the first coat and shouldn't look like it's soaking in any more. After an hour or two it'll be dry and should be slightly tacky, which is then ready to tile .

@Ferdinand Last pic shows pump set to three. Knock it down to 2 and wind the input TMV temp down to 40oC. Leave for 48 hrs to acclimatise and check how it's performing. 50 is way too high. Dont confuse your red expansion vessel for a buffer tank, as it's not a buffer and therefore will do nothing towards stopping short cycling. I don't see a 22mm bypass valve anywhere, is there one under the boiler ? Does the house have rads and UFH or just that manifold and just the one floor of UFH ?

No matter TBH, 10mm is fine unless they're huge rads.

at least your honest . 10mm to all wash hand basins and WC's and 15mm everywhere else is the norm. How are you getting the pipe to the rads? Out of wall or up out of the floor?

You've only now joined the forum have you ? Weve been bragging the manifold vs uninterrupted pipe setup for over 2 years between here and EBuild. Naughty step for you ? Re the radiators on a manifold, yes, I've done it a few times and works a treat, just beware not to mix any different disciplines, eg one manifold dedicated for rads, so you can select a higher flow temp on the TMV. You could do away with the TMV for a rads-only manifold but then you have to live with the rads being at the boiler flow temp, which if you've got an uvc will be 60+oC so a bit too hot imo.

The grey box is a pipe / cylinder stat and it's there to stop the pump from spinning if the flow manifold temp exceeds the set point. Basically it's a failsafe should the primary means of thermostatic control fail If this is off a system boiler or combi then the manifold pump may well have been wrongly omitted . Is there no pump at the manifold? Can we have a zoomed out pic? My fault for not seeing the HL stat as that's prob why you weren't getting any flow. The boiler was lighting, sending way too hot water to the manifold and the HL stat was shutting the whole thing down. More detail of system components / pic of under boiler etc please. Something is missing here me thinks.

Given that ian will end up with a manifold and UFH, and even though a slight digression, I think it'll be useful to the topic . So... The unit the plug goes into is the wiring centre ( Wctr ), the room stats connect to the Wctr, and the actuators get controlled by the Wctr. The acuators are dumb if they are 2-wire, or they're active if 4-wire ( as with 4-wire each actuator has a switched pair that close when the actuator is fully open and that would then directly control the manifold pump ). You've likely got 2-wire by the look of the Wctr and the pump relay will / is likely to be inside the WCtr. Is the pump pump speed on low / 1? That's a lot of heat going in TBH, so what's the floor construction? I'd dial the temp back to 35-38oC going in and change the pump speed to med / 2.

The blue, red and hard to see white collars are the horseshoe shaped circlips that keep the JG stuff from undoing themselves. Nice touch having them all colour coded for hot cold and softened etc. ?