Nickfromwales

Go over all the grooves with at least one full coat, staying away from the adjacent faces of the render 'blocks'. Once you've been right around all of these aka cutting in is done, go around the perimeter and do the same. See how well the beads have covered and coat them again, only if absolutely necessary. Do all the fiddly detail work before reloading the machine for the general spray work as when your moving at a pace you really don't want to be arsing around with nooks and crannies .

Fwiw, with hydro covering your losses id deffo put it in the garage, and I'd also install a hot return loop so your not waiting for hot water at the taps.

Don't ask him.....tell him . Your paying ?

I've only ever used the cheapest ones which were also used for prepping for skimming etc. Never lost a patient. yet.

+1. Prime the concrete first with 50/50 PVA and water and absolutely saturate it. Do NOT let the builder just pour it straight on. The slab will suck it dry before it's levelled out properly, and make 1m% sure they use 2-part leveller NOT the water mix one.

Adaptors

All depends on how much surface contact there would be ?

You using them dry ? When i drill porcelain on the deck I cheat. Get a gun with some decorators caulk and make a dam about 50mm in diameter with the caulk, surrounding but away from where the hole is to be made. Fill it with water and then drill the hole wet. You'll find it drills much quicker, and it massively reduces wear on the bit.

What are you using to drill the porcelain?

F&E Feed and expansion tank aka a header tank for central heating. When you stick your head up your nans attic you'll see two plastic tanks. One is the F&E and the others the CWS ( cold water storage) tank. The F&E will have spent its life full of ferrous corrosion and possibly inhibitor chemicals ( which will kill you if drunk ) so best to be sure what your water will be sat in. What size is the tank? A CWS will usually be 24"x24"x18" high or so and an F&E will be be around 12"x18"x12" high or so.

You get any rats / other vermin in the boat ? When did you last see a caravan with an open water tank on its roof ? .

Nice hiut though lol.

+100. Not just easier, but safer and more hygienic. . Stop what your doing and don't drink that water, eg no brushing the teeth in it. This is not a good idea, and I'd only use that water to fill a flushing toilet. Sorry to piss on the chips but you really shouldn't pursue this imho. A pump will give you useable force at the taps, and it'll be fresh clean water from a roll along butt. The fact it's a second hand tank also worries me, I certainly hope it's not an old F&E tank? Do you know what it was doing previously? Not a fan of this idea, sorry

I'd unify your equipment and use Wunda throughout. I used to fit B Dev's manifolds with pumped blenders using TMVs, but after reading primarily @JSHarris's feedback their better suited to standard BR builds rather than low energy builds. Youll need to get around 45-50oC into a convector radiator to get any useful heat out of it really, ( especially with the small rads your quoting ), so just check what the max setting is on the manifold blender before purchasing. Have you considered trench heaters under the bedroom windows instead of obtrusive radiators?

Especially when you compare the cost of thicker aluminium layers to very very thin 'aluminium' layers .

@najem-icf Ill just give you a little nudge here All the members here will take nothing as a given, and usually with merit. The feedback you get here will always be impartial, and given freely, and a lot of it is from people who have bought, and installed such products, for better or for worse, and are willing to share their findings with the members and guests who frequent here, for their benefit. Its not a battle, it's a constructive volley everyone benefits from, so take the replies with a pinch, and take any criticism or indifferences as constructive only, as I assure you they're meant to be . Most folk here will tell you how it is, not how they think it is, ( apart from me where I usually only open my mouth to change feet ). Stay tuned, it's about to get interesting

A good shepherd watches over his flock. Now flock off. ✌️️??

Agree. It's wafer thin. Just putting gaffa tape on it and peeling it away shows just how thin it is.

It's so much better when all the kids play nicely together. .

And youll then also have one RCBO in the bank

Get a matching MCB you loon, all that'll be missing is the test button ? Saves you going back to the house to reset when you plug something in and a spike throws the RCBO.

Why don't you put RCBOs in the garage CU and feed that CU off an MCB in the house? That way you only lose one circuit at a time in the garage rather than the lot in one go ?

Spill the beans......whodunnit? Welcome to Buildhub Naj.

Unsure, but is it worth the risk of it needing to be changed in the near future with regs shifts?