Nickfromwales

Ok, confusion reigns... Water flowing at full wallop all the way down the pipe, from the manifold to the outlet, then meets the restrictor and you can gauge the end flow rate pretty well. If you put the restriction at the source, eg the manifold, then you have a restricted flow at source and then it suffers further losses caused by the resistance of the pipe ( hydraulic dynamics iirc @PeterW ) and the number of twists and turns downstream, and that’s what I’m referring to as possibly problematic. Can be done at the manifold, but possibly a higher rated restrictor would he needed there vs one at the outlet in order to achieve the same result Now can I finish my steak?

Sorry, I'm late to this party For the SA you only need a 13a ( 3kW ) immersion supply. So a 20a MCB / RCBO in the CU, then a length of 2.5mm2 T&E to a 13a switched fused spur ( with neon so you know it's got juice going to it ) and you're done. If employing PV diversion I fit the My Energy Eddi units. With those you will need to split the feed to give the SA controller a permanent supply, via a second fused spur tee'd of the aforementioned one, with a 3a fuse, and then the Eddi sporadically throws pockets of energy at the SA as and when they become available ( from the sun popping its head up here and there ). You will only fully recharge the SA from PV if there is enough excess generation in every 24 hr period, so a bit of trial and error will ensue. Boosting of the grid will be required for the leaner times of the year. The Eddi will entertain boost, or you can fit an additional 3rd party device / manual boost to suit.

? You could introduce it at the manifold if you are happy to fit an inline coupler. Would be experimental though as it would be pre pipe resistance.

Noise. Ball valves sheer the flow of water and create a horrible 'rushing' noise, whereas fitting one of these at the outlet connection is near silent by comparison 2 different definitions; Flow regulator / attenuator Isolation valve ( rotary / screw / lever )

Nope. On or off, isolators NOT attenuators Flow restriction always at the outlet.

They become quite noisy if you do that. If you're going to strangle the flow then fit a restrictor in the outlet. Beware reducing the flow to WC's as they'll take forever to fill and get on your nerves when you flush the loo at night. edit : restrictor ( not reducer )

Permission granted......

A thing of beauty. How come the outside tap is coming off that? The O/S tap should come off either directly after, or even better, before the stopcock to the house. Tee-ing off there would be a huge drain on flow for the showers, but if it's not used much don't panic.

Zoot, you don’t fully contradict yourself, but what you say in one post does not marry up to what you state in another. A builder you cannot speak to, or instruct, for fear of them packing up and walking off site is an asshole. Simple. You sugar coat the situation, even though I’m not sure you realise you’re doing so, ( and that’s not picking fault btw I’m genuinely concerned for you here ), and the relationship is hugely unhealthy from my simple interpretation. To be clear, there is no pack mentality here, just individual members posting their thoughts / observations You started this thread to get help / feedback / relief / confidence etc and therefore you must accept what had been written as CONSTRUCTIVE, as that’s exactly what it is ok ? Fyi if I spoke to / behaved around my customers like these bullies do then I’d be out of work and rightly so. They’re not the best builders at all, and I think you’d get better builders with ease. You’re clearly a little intimidated and apprehensive to cause ripples, but you haven’t got out of the ground yet and you’ve had your third litter of kittens already! Fantastic / amazing builders wouldn’t have f.ucked up the foundation level, end of. You're being given no opportunities to discuss / interject / guide and that is fatal. Were here to help so stop biting, also the advice you’re being given is free and impartial, so take a deep breath and look at this glass as half full not half empty please. Right now this feels like taking a horse to water but no drinky-drinky. Explain that you will NOT be paying anything for the founds to be made up to the height that you indicated before work commenced. Simple, and end of ? Their fcuk up, their problem to sort. If they walk off when you state that, good bloody riddance and hello new day and new builders. Either what you’re saying isn’t the full story, or you simply cannot see you’re being bullied. Have that chat, stem the anxiety of speaking with them, and set a standard for how things are to roll forward. Have a cup of tea and a digestive biscuit before replying. ?

Just cruel..... Funny, but cruel.....

Wise words. Well, except the "Erk" bit lol. It was more the principal than the actual unit So pan on the end wall ( facing the door ) and basin on the shower wall? Have you drawn this on graph paper to see what circulation space you have left?

Something like This?

Put the sink indirectly opposite the WC ? At 1200mm it won’t be usable as a wet shower eg open ended. Just won’t happen.

With respect, most of what you have written here does not reflect such a rosey situation. It may be how it's portrayed / worded by you, but there is some writing that's on the wall here I'm afraid. Next time there is a kettle brewed maybe ask #2 to sit alone with you, away from the crowd, and discuss 'next steps' to your OWN satisfaction. You need to slow the pace between client & contractor here, and ensure you retain a voice. A loud, polite but firm voice. It sounds as if there is more momentum than clarity here. I thought you were going to have a heart attack over your concrete pour!!!!!! That wasn't in ANY humour.

B = min 1000mm A = Moot, as it isn't stopping all of the water. 300mm fixed panel would stop water getting at the corner of the floor / tray junction. In honesty, this is too small a tray to be open. Minimum tray size for 'open ended' is 1600mm AFAIC, but 1800-2000mm better. Plus then you wont need the A panel.

Just sack the prick if he says that to you. Are you under some disillusion that they're the only building team in Wales? I would stop work now and meet up with #1. If you carry on as their pet, instead of their customer, FCUK knows how the rest of the build is going to go, or more importantly what it will do to your health. As you stated, you haven't paid anything yet so a quick reminder of that wouldn't go amiss here I think. It's quite nauseating to hear how you are being talked to / treated here if I'm honest. You SERIOUSLY need to hit the reset button here and cut off the problem AT SOURCE. That means a meeting with #1 before any more work is carried out on site. If you don't stand up for yourself now then you will be almost at fault for allowing this to become business as normal. Get a handle on this now, as it will grow horns and you'll regret a lot of the decisions made, after paying for them of course. I wont say exactly what I would do to the (expletive deleted)wits who have caused you such other grief, but the dog shit would have been packed into the holes in a dozen engineering bricks...... one for each window. The one thing I cannot tolerate from anyone is them being obstinate or just plain rude. Those types soon realise what happens when an unstoppable force meets an immovable object

Remember in very adverse conditions, heavy clay being one, I would recommend fitting more than one run of french drain. Cheap enough to buy, and a very good place to have such redundancy ( bearing in mind that you have already dug a trench, so why not double up anyway ). Builder may scoff at that idea, but I would persevere and just tell them to do it as it is your wish. Make sure the pipe is covered with Terram / other ( weed membrane ) to arrest the influx of silt / other unwanted spoil.

Hi Tony, and welcome to BH. You can post that here, but please feel free to peruse the sub-forum headings for any differing enquiries

One piece is always best, and there are some nice ones out there nowadays with plenty of colours / finishes etc to choose from. Fiora was the make of the last one I fitted.

Not asking for trouble just looks a bit nasty imo. Looks like the floors been over-laid during the last make over kinda thing. To try and seal a flat floor to the flat surface of a tray is just horrible. It’ll never look nice. Do as I normally do, and as @JSHarris did and just leave 15mm or so above the finished floor level ( FFL ) and don’t bother with the up-stand. FYI I only recommend up-stand trays for rentals / student digs as they’re bombproof. Just a horrible gap to keep clean but easily done quarterly by the landlord ??. 1000x760 is a cracking sized shower so don’t moan about that, just be sure to not put any clutter on the sides so you can throw some shower shapes in there ?

Bastard of a detail to seal and maintain. Are you referring to a regular tray with an upstand?

How far into the room is the supply air valve?

You'll need to cover the splines on the spindle then, or the arbour will file the splines off Then you'll be up shit creek, minus the paddle.

Why go to a showroom with a view to spending money? I go to them to steal ideas and make money Geberit WC frame on the 'net ~£200....in the showroom £300 +. You rich or summat?

I did have a chat with an elderly couple at the Kent Build It event and had to politely tell them they'd need to live another 25 years to break even. I think 5 would have been pushing it lol. They very politely thanked me for my diligence, and explained that they wanted to preserve their kids and grand-kids futures in a property that was to stay in the family for the next few generations. Very lovely couple they were too.