Nickfromwales

Pour a boiling kettle over the chrome sleeve immediately prior to trying to remove / unscrew them. They should only have been put on hand tight

Who fitted the TS? Did they use a pressure reducing valve at the cold water inlet, directly before it? Deffo a mixing fault due to missing / fouled NRV's. You could solve this possibly by fitting a whole of house PRedV at the incoming cold mains and set that to 3.5-4 bar. Sounds like you have good cold mains pressure adding to the problem. Getting the cartridges out may or may not allow you to solve the problem, if you cannot get NRV's in there / get to the ones that are U/S. Do you have the manufacturers literature for the basin and the shower units? It doesn't sound like they're balanced to me! Hence the question above about the PRedV. The cold water supply to the bathroom ( any mixer outlet ) should be the same feed that goes into the TS cold side, so if your cold feeds for the bathrooms simply tee off the cold mains then there's your problem. The problem is that the cold feed gets the resistance of the DHW coil in the TS added to its flow dynamic, so it's naturally under-powered vs the cold feed when being drawn at the same mixer ( hence the reference to dynamic flow NOT static pressure ). If all are the same, then you'll need to get to all of them I'd try with the primary PRedV first and see if you're lucky, if that can be easily undertaken on an experimental basis?

They look very smart when done in a sympathetic manner. I always try to do them the size of one full tile missing from the wall. No more fruit punch for you tonight

Is there a magnetic filter fitted? Have you closed all the ports bar one and see if that gets circulation ? I’d say the first port of call would be to change the manifold pump and then re-evaluate. Try opening the TMV to its highest setting and see if that gets things moving. If so, it’s the TMV that’s sludged / seized. The weir gauges are easy to clean and give worrying indications ( false ) that the system is heavily corroded / sludged up. If you isolate the manifold and blow the pressure off, most clear viewing caps just simply unscrew. Clean and replace with a bit of silicone lube on the threads and you’ll be able to view whatever is, or isn’t, going on.

Did you not upsize the lounge radiators?

I used my Bosch GL80-3 outside to do my man-shed base. Best £360 I ever spent, and has earned its price umpteen times over. Outside in bright sunlight you can still see the beam but only if you use something to create some shade, and use a piece of white card / stiff paper as a background to see the beam. Dawn / dusk is best if you want to use a ‘domestic ‘ laser to set out, but I’d rather struggle with a domestic one that will be invaluable when the interior stuff starts. The DeWalt one is very, very good value for money. ?. Only 2 line though ?.

I've been looking for the same for another couple of jobs, and found these about the most aesthetically pleasing of all of the 'offerings' out there. There are some bloody ugly and 'clunky' ones out there, so I have these ones earmarked already. "Carry on!"

BPC Ventilation iirc. I have images of their offerings on my phone to show customers as they have a few more available than most. There is an opening in the market for flush / recessed units here I think, but not a fan of the type you can see up into, which most alternatives seem to sufferer from. You also cannot have the ‘paper doily’ type ones as they’ll block up with dust me thinks.

It'll LOOK like 15l/min but it won't FEEL like it Have you ever used a basin tap that aerates? Takes much longer to wash you hands ergo does not save water as you're running the tap longer. The reason they do it is to fool you, subconsciously, that the water is running faster, but its not, as a water saving measure. 7.5l/min will always just be 7.5l/min. You can make it look more, but that's all.

Yup. Deffo get the bog seat from the same supplier as the pan. Shapes n colours a plenty otherwise !! Good shout, Woody

Just fit a £2 flow regulator ( restrictor ) into any shower head and you’ll be “saving water” in seconds, without any premium.

Mix them up on nearly every job. There’s only “so good” ( expensive ) you can make a chunk of porcelain .

I think it is near impossible to thermally isolate 1m2 of slab in a well insulated house. 100%

The Ivar set comes with 2 control head options, one does 30-50oC and the other does 20-60oC, you'll need the latter. If you wish to marry the Ivar to a Wunda manifold, there is a conflict of Male > Male or Female > Female and you can't fit the inline ( Wunda supplied ) isolation valves directly. Your plumber will work it out, but for simplicity I just bolt together minus the iso's and put gate valves before the whole manifold arrangement. You can buy the manifold from the same supplier that supply the Ivar set and then it'll all be compatible and will give you the manifold isolation as god intended. Just ensure that it's for 16mm pipe.

You wouldn’t have a 110mm branch just to pick up a WHB anyway so a bit OTT at first glance?

Knowing what size ASHP you’ll go with is a little coarse in deriving a size for PV, as a lot of people will oversize an ASHP so they run at half wallop ( modulated output to match demand ) so they run quieter and last longer. ?

The last thing I heard from this company was that they were exiting the new build sector. Are you retrofitting?

It’s where they rise and continue on to that we need to know. Some pics may help. Whst we need to know is what happens to the 4” pipe from after it emerges from the ground. Please remember that the obligatory vent to atmosphere aka the “stench pipe” ( SVP ) does not have to come from a toilet / other appliance, and can be tee’d off the sewerage system anywhere around your house. The SVP can also be 3” so may look like a down-pipe.

Still have to get rid of the ‘waste’ heat though?

Wunda don’t do an Uber low temp manifold blending set, so you’ll be getting quoted for the thermo-mechanical type which is nigh on useless in a PH. Why they stopped selling the type that is necessary is beyond me, and I’ve petitioned their sales director to sort it......without reply. The ratio of cool / cold vs heated flow are just not available so the valve just strangles itself to death. The one with a thermo-head & probe is what’s required. Link There are a lot of ‘gotchas’ in designing a system for a PH, so read up on Buildhub and save yourself some grief.

How do those cheapo wine ‘coolers’ work? Maybe a pair of those minus the doors / bastardised ? Prob is, to get ‘cold, the byproduct is heat Remote systems seem the obvious choice. I’ve got the same conundrum with a job where they are building on a plot, in a vineyard where they produce champagnes, and want a large wine store in the middle of their PH . Looks like a split A/C unit running at its lowest setting may fit the bill but really have to look at condensation risks, and the quality of the glazing units in the sliding glass wall designed to be a viewing aid. Main issue is that it’ll reside within the general heated and airtight envelope, so a few more nights of pencil chewing before I offer my first thoughts. “What could possibly go wrong?” ?

MDPE is cheap as chips. Run two pipes, one up, one back as ‘recirc’ ?

Yup. Type at speed repent at leisure lol. Tbh I just do it to see if Nicks out of bed yet

We've just done one in an AONB and Conservation, and flew through with planning first time around. 8kW and currently has produced 3.5mW in less than 4 months. No need to have the horrible frames on show. These were mounted in ballast filled 'pods' mounted at an inclination / orientation to maximise production. Client intends to let the shrubbery grow around them but to manage it with regular 'hair cuts'

One of these on the end of the MDPE pipe, and one of these with a short bit of 22mm copper between them. Compression fitting means no soldering. You can get the same in pushfit if you want a zero tool solution You'll need an insert to go into the end of the MDPE pipe, LINK Any pipe lagging ( screwfix are cheap enough but only sell the really thin walled stuff ) as long as you tape all the seams / joints well.