Nickfromwales

Id say the 2 courses under the third row were too far to the right rather than the third too far to the left? That would close up the 'pencil' gap too. You should find the adhesive isn't yet fully cured so they should be reasonably easy to get off. If you have to break a tile remember that it'll grow in size when it breaks so beware of it expanding and damaging the adjacent 'keepers'. No-one said it was going to be easy. Stick with it. ?

What do you need from each stat? Temp only / temp + time clock etc ? Are you having a central hub to set times etc ?

Its a wiring issue. Its simply not been wired up correctly, as if it had the motorised valves would be opening and allowing flow through. Theyre not, eg its not operating correctly. Get this nugget back to site in the next few days or get someone else and bill him.

No defence to SA here, but the unit is worth the effort imo. They need a new ambassador SOON as I’m also struggling to get any sense.

Some say IP20 and others ( the one I linked ) say IP40 Zone 2 + 3?

They are 12v ( S.E.L.V. ) from a separate transformer so no need for the IP stuff afaik. @ProDave @Onoff ?

I'll just check with And................FECK.

Could you perhaps update with regards to how your getting the SA units 'signed off' as member @mike2016 is struggling, ( more with his architect the with SA I imagine ).

You really wouldnt want to put the hot water tank outside ! If you have a garage or similar where the elements could be kept off it at least then id consider an airing cupboard affair with a good bit of rock wool insulation stuffed inside to keep it wrapped up and minimise lost heat.

Yes indeed, an ambassador I think they could ill afford to lose. I shall invite their sales director to participate and pick up any questions here, but I fear he's now a very busy chap !

The hot water version of the SA unit ( the eHw ) has one pipe in, one pipe out and a 3-core flex. If you can change the spare tire on your car you can fit one of those.

Hi all. Just a heads up, that member @AndyT has announced his retirement from Sunamp, and is now no longer with the company. I am going to meet up with Andy soon for a social visit and will ask if he wishes to remain on Buildhub as a private member, but in the meantime please do not call on him for SA related questions as you will not receive an answer. I'll update on Andy's wishes as and when I get to speak to him. Best wishes to him for a long and enjoyable retirement.

Sadly, AndyT has recently contacted me to announce his retirement. He has subsequently handed in his notice and left SA. He's being missed already tbh

@JSHarris, what constitutes a SA registered installation? Im still none the wiser as to what you need to "be" to fit and commission a SA. Is it as simple as abide by the Manufacturers Installation Instructions? There's no G3 so apart from an electrician making off the power supply, what gives? @le-cerveau how did you achieve this status?

IIRC the SA eDual is a high SAP rated appliance, so may get you off the hook vs the Steibel. Ask your assessor and maybe ring SA to see what points it gets ?

@TerryE Terry, did you get into any difficulties as you didn't have PV either? IIRC you are using economy electricity so would 'full-fat' peak rate electricity have played any part in failure to meet Part L? For the benefit of the thread, @mike2016 and I have been discussing this via PM and the architect has stated, quote - “Using electric base heaters for space and water will not meet Part L compliance of building regulations. It will also not meet Primary Energy Demand on the PHPP results tab. My advice is to propose in tender a small sized heat pump, that is what we need in any case, with underfloor heating in the ground level and towel rads on the upstairs wet rooms (or landing). We can make a decision at that point on what can be afforded and possible alternatives. “ End quote. The bit in bold is my favourite bit. The mention of PHPP is the stick I believe, but it has been discussed to abandon the PHPP certification to attain a 'lower standard' to get the initial aforementioned system installed to get mike up and running with minimum initial outlay.

Unlike me, I've come up with a sensible reply. Just fit the spots that I now routinely use, eg the flat panel LED type like these and the huge dispersion with these fittings will remove a lot of the problem. Really excellent light compared to traditional spotlights too. I haven't bought a 'spotlight' for ages now and use these for every job. Inconspicuous when they're off ( white bezel ) and very elegant look when on.

Can’t aegue with the dedication my friend. That jig is worthy of a beer or two. ? Yes to knocking the bridges out between the holes as the NRVs need getting to. If I were you I’d use the ‘corner of doom’ to practice for the compound cuts on the bath. Those keep waking me up at night. If they all work out mint I’ll buy a round in your honour ?

Already suggested the dead test

We’re all reasonably well fed. Get a sparky to go up there

I recently had a 9kW ASHP off eBay for a client new surplus stock for £700. Others here have found them even cheaper. Inverter driven but not ErP, but at that price it’s disposable. Find out exactly how deep you can dig out and get as much insulation in the floor as possible. Is the oil combi already there? What makes you say you can’t you afford an ASHP? Any PV planned ?

Who pays for the flood damage ?

Can you get a drainage company out on the insurance. ?

Dropping an entire floor in small bore waste pipe is a no-no afaic. Major issues with siphon effect so I avoid at all costs. Norm would be to run horizontally to a snow box and use that as an air break. Not possible if you have to get grey water to the FW network but fine for combined sewers. Strap on or boss socket into the 110mm every day of the week for me and I’ve been doing this for nearly two and a half decades.

If the fault had just started occurring then you have an issue to deal with. Find what’s caused the problem or wait for it to get much worse.