Nickfromwales

Should read MASSIVELY improved sound proofing. It really makes a huge difference in my direct experience. PIR is pretty ‘transparent’ as a wrap for a home. @Dreadnaught I’d stick to your guns and see if the 300mm sections can simply be fabricated in smaller sections as a couple of days of extra man handling is nothing for the MBC team imo. The best thing to do is tell the MBC guys that they CANNOT do it, and watch them then prove you wrong ?. ???

Fill the bath with water and grout. Leave it full until the grout has cured then empty it. Wipe all the grout dust off, and give the lot a good polish. Get your silicone gun out and do all the internal angles until your happy. Bingo chuffing Bango. ??

I don’t use CT1 for final / cosmetic sealing because IT IS AN ABSOLUTE FECKING PIG to work with. It really is horrible. Great for purpose, but just SO much hard work getting anything less than a small bead. Silicone is great for cosmetic stuff, and is easily removed when tired so can be redone with ease. Try that with CT1 at your peril. Anything with microban in it for ‘no black crap’ is a winner. Silicone cleans up easily too and is quite a bit cheaper.

Hmm. They just keep on about how amazing it is. 35mm including the deck is ambitious. This must rely on pre-installed insulation surely?

Who installed your unit ?

Nobody on here would hang themselves by answering that. Its an SE or an early grave.

Its no problem at all. You go the the RSJ aka UC shop and buy one

Joins in composite are common, and are present on most turns in the direction of the worktop. Its down to how diligent the fitter is.

Small steel. Its too cheap to even consider concrete imo. And concrete pads

Not that bad if it saves you a few £k on a new lift

Much cheaper on CU's ( consumer units ) then too

I'm sure you can get single phase to 3 phase convertors. Dont quote me on it though

No reason not too at all, other than converting to 15mm. Done it a few times where the pipe was over-ordered.

Yes, lets please keep this thread concise, thanks.

I like that idea. Cheap as chips, and no need to paint it ( the uPVC ) ever.

T'was only yesterday we were discussing the making of the electric wackaplate Looking good, and not that far to go 2019 is the deadline.

The more holes you drill, and allow the product to expand out of, the better the fill. Also there will then be little or no pressure applied to the P board. Deffo to the wetting.

Basements rule. End of. ?

Best of British with that lol.

@PeterW Any benefit from going out the top via a Sussex? It’ll be the hottest water after all. I’d be happy enough as long as the cyl stat is kept ( mounted ) low tbh.

Yup. Definitely a waste of time and money. Your boiler will be chucking 30kW in and another immersion would only provide another 3, totally pointless. 100%, dress or no dress.

Every bit of info I've had, even from the various manufacturers own tech / sales people has been so unclear and indecisive that I instantly removed myself from a position of quoting for such a system to a client who had expressed interest in one. I was being told of "how good they were in Japan", and thought...…"but I'm asking about the UK you nugget ?!?" I'm all up for tasting new flavours, but this one went sour pretty damn fast. If you don't want to ( simply and relatively cheaply ) boost by electricity then go for the hybrid. PV would swing it to the electricity option afaic.

Be good if you have as you'll have a separate flow tapping for the DHW PHE. With regards to sustain, I wouldn't worry about sapping the cylinder as the space heating wont even blink if its has an empty buffer for 30 mins or so. Only issue will be the useful temp cut-off point of ~40oC but if you set the cylinder set temp to ~65oC and try it I think you'll be fine. If your DHW usage is higher and you find yourself needing more 'capacity', just incrementally raise the set temp by 2oC and retry daily, adjusting accordingly as you go, until your happy.

Just enough time to try all your frocks on Images I cannot un-see

Do you mean it has an auxiliary tapping 2/3 of the way up on one side ( which is a hot return tapping ) ? A regular cylinder has cold in, side mounted at the very bottom x1, combined hot and vent out of the very top x1, and nowt else other than the coil tapping's which are hydraulically separate.