Nickfromwales

OK, why 10mm ? Lets start there

Click mode / deco range is brilliant. You can take a 4g 2-way switch and remove 2 switches and replace with intermediate / momentary push / other and it still looks like a generic switch. A1 ?. Rounded edges like MK logic and a very light switch action with a quiet ‘click’ rather than the chunky ones which ‘snap’ on / off. Quite important in a TF house so choose well Big thanks to @ProDave for mentioning them elsewhere ( I found some ‘Twatt’ harping on about them from 2011 onwards )

Yup. My gas hitachi 1st fix doesn’t like long gaps at all, but is a great gun. I have both 1st & 2nd fix guns and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them. The service kit is only £40 odd quid iirc and servicing is easy so unless you’re a roofer / TF contractor you’ll struggle to justify the extra spend on the Paslode. I will soon buy buy an electric ( battery ) 1st fix, probably the DeWalt unless Makita sort their ? out. 80% of my kit is Makita, chopsaw is DeWalt, big SDS and breakers and laser are Bosch. I’ve killed enough stuff to know what lasts so I’m settled on those 3, ( with Hitachi for the nailers ). I have a compressor and air guns too, they are great but will live in the man-shed for my own use due to practicality. I did run my air framing gun off a cheapo B&Q 24L compressor for years without issue, just needed to be running a lot of the time which I think helped kill it eventually. Was perfect for 2nd fix / finish / stapling etc so you don’t need a huge compressor if the work is light.

Agree it would be a bit of upheaval, but it is a cheeky way of getting a little uplift if you've already got an ASHP. My comments are referring to instances when things are still open to change in design, eg before things are fitted, but 'chopping something in' retrospectively can usually still be facilitated with a bit of tenacity.

Not very much if the heat is wet and derived from an ASHP FWIW, I would not recommend an electric unit TBH, as they seem to be less 'gentle' in the heat delivery and a bit more 'noticeable' in the air. Electric units usually pass the set point of the thermostat, with a far coarser hysteresis from a thermo-mechanical control device, so are nowhere near as favourable as bringing in the heat via a wet source.

Then can't you just spur off the flow and return of the cylinder? It would require a bit of nifty setting up, and the installation of 2x 2-port zone valves at the cylinder, but certainly do-able with your current setup IMO. In a low energy / PH you are only looking to reinforce the situation by off-setting the impact of the incoming air temp from atmosphere. Some parts of the year the duct 'unit' ( heat / cool / sod-all ) will do nowt. In the extreme it will cool, effectively, and in the coldest snaps it will raise the incoming air temp to compliment the efficiency of the MVHR. It's a no-brainer to put in the inlet from atmosphere AFAIC, as that's far simpler to implement. It's there to compliment the MVHR H-Ex not replace it

I don't think I'd do cooling unless it was a solid floor eg wood or concrete / screed. I fear carpet may tend to start excessively absorbing moisture and harbouring it. Just my experience from seeing various floor coverings in many homes, and in particular carpet on an original unheated / un-insulated slab seemed to be damp / mouldy when lifted after a life on the cold floor. Do you have MVHR? Have you considered a duct heater / cooler in the inlet from atmosphere to raise / lower the temp of the incoming air, prior to it entering the MVHR unit? I'm doing that on a couple of up-coming projects and should yield great results. On one I've already done, we put heat into the duct heater and it was immediately apparent at the nearest fresh air inlet ( in the bedroom off the MVHR plant room ) so results are definitely there if the sizing / design is done correctly.

He didn’t mention the 4 pairs of socks and 7 jumpers he wears.

So the pipes will be ‘cast in’ or retrofit over the slab ?

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I tried a Fal in the ruby house t'other night, and after that I recon I could have produced enough compo to lay 5-600 of those bricks. WOW, that is one bloody unnecessarily hot curry. ouch.

Send me your PayPal address and we’ll crowdfund the £7 ok

The whole point of these types of construction methods is to not require huge amounts of energy in the first place Agree the thermal retention is lessened re the walls, but who looks at storing and releasing energy to reduce heating costs in the context you suggest ( "quickly enough" )? In a Durisol / other ICF build, the mass you're referring to for energy stability is typically retained in all of the internal finish / fixtures / fabric layers not the core of the ICF. The 24 / 48 hr time period is what's important, so lets remember that heating up all that concrete in the first place, and then retaining the heat, takes equally huge amounts of energy ( which has to come from somewhere ). Having no requirement to inject that amount of heat in the first place = a low energy home. Add "mass" to add "thermal stability", but you still have to heat it and keep it there against it's will. Whatever kW of heat it emits will have required a greater amount to inject and retain it in order to facilitate that transaction, so concrete may be of benefit in certain targeted instances, but not in general, the same way an insulated passive standard UFH heated slab takes X amount of energy to stabilise it to ambient, then X amount more to keep it at ambint. To get the house heated from it then requires that original energy input plus whatever you require on top to maintain a comfortable temperature, plus losses.

Then the 'no dung' rule must be brought into play Upstairs for U571, and downstairs for #1.

Have a look at the MI’s as you can pump quite a distance with the turd crunchers Post a link to the weapon of choice, but agree to go for a pumping station and take the sink waste down to that to get rid of the macerator for the kitchen sink. Just on a hygiene POV I wouldn’t like to pump any McFlurry into the kitchen unit as that’s under immense pressure, and if it blew off you got yourself one fcuked up jet wash. ? I very much doubt SF would endorse that without an ‘open vented’ ( AAV capped ) pipe which would allow the McFlurry to fall to the second unit by gravity. Ew....

If not, the guys at PlasticSurgeon could probably ‘stretch’ it for you.

Can the wall be dry lined with a moisture resistant plasterboard and set out to fill the gap? Will the whole wall be able to be done so there’s no ‘step’ ?

Hi john Your post had been edited as we do not allow company / commercial links in new membership. ( It’s in our T’s & C’s ). Please ask the question of which exact type product / purpose etc you’re looking for and the other members can reply with suggestions. Thanks. Mods.

Second one, just for symmetry, but also you gain a bit more protection against the elements.

LVT should never go straight down, and I’ve never seen it done. The result would be terrible ?. Leveling with a feathering ( fine SLC ) compound is part of the installation as a rule so that cost should be lent to the laying of the flooring and not reflect on the total cost of the screed . LVT is simply too thin to even dream about putting it straight into a slab. You even have to plywood and feather over chipboard / other timber decks prior to LVT going down.

I’m not sure what they put in the curry in Dorset, but I think most of it was out of date. ? ?

It’s not just the obvious heat emitted from the manifold, but also the M25 of pipework that’s in the immediately surrounding floor too. You’ll not just have the heat from the manifold, but also the hottest section of floor in the entire house, all in the confines of the panty. Can it go somewhere else?

Sue. We have a pipe decoiler in our Buildhub tool loan stock. Let me know when you are ready and you can reserve it. £10 donation to the BH coffers is the price, plus P&P to send onto the next 'borrower' or to return it to a staff member to hold.

You can simply add something like this and set the overrun to suit. Boost will stay on until the hood is turned off, and then it falls back to overrun timer which you set to suit. Link

Can you give a little more detail on how / why you need the boost to work please? I would imagine ( yet to fit my first unit ) that the boost goes into overrun itself so any external trigger / feed should only need to be momentary.