Nickfromwales

I’d be inclined to say to put a relay in between the switch and the ‘controller’ tbh, as this is the exact same switch that @PeterW and I fitted in @newhome‘s install ( which = “ tried and tested “ ). The relay will not change state with ‘ ghost voltage ‘ but it appears the controller clearly is responding to this sub manis voltage signal so IMO I think that would sort it. @readiescards, Take the live trigger ( output ) wire from the flow switch and have it power the coil in a normal relay ( solid state may not be a good idea ) and have the relay convey the common ( the live into the flow switch ) to the pump controller unit. That should give a definitive on or off signal to the unit and resolve the issue. In @newhome‘s it went; switch > relay > pump and worked well, just yours has an electronic component downstream which clearly doesn’t like ghost voltage.

Coming along nicely

MBC don’t bother, just whack the pipe in and away to go. There’s too much going on on a new build to risk fitting delicate things like manifolds ( flow gauges are very easy to damage ) so I only ever do that now if there’s a pipe been damaged & repaired and it needs proving. Tbh you can just do that with a temp rig anyhoo, so as long as there’s no excessive foot traffic / narrowing then I would say don’t worry. Thats re Pex-Al-Pex with the aluminium liner. It’s tougher than Charles Bronson and Jean-Claude Van Damme’s love child. ?

Motorised machine with guides that stretch the pipe would be my choice, probably best to hire one. Get everything laid in as far as you can to shorten the window for hire.

Explanation please? Not heard of that phrase before tbh.

I’ve just had 47m of 25.0mm2 3-core dropped off on site and they put it onto a wooden drum for delivery. It was easily put upright and rolled downhill to the rear of the build by myself without any hint of breaking into a sweat. 100m with a hot tub should be fine at 16.0mm2, and at most you’ll need a second pair of hands to roll it down your site. Not anywhere near the issue we had moving your Sunamps lol. You'll have no probs at all, as long as it doesn’t gather speed and Foxtrot Oscar down the valley

Another factual thread that we can all safely rely on then “Taxi for.......”

How about buying a pre-formed concrete tray ( Link ) and set in situ prior to the pour ? Then just let them polish to this and ask the polishers to blend it in as best as possible? I’d say go for a bigger area if no shower enclosure is to be used. 1500x1500mm. Getting closure to match may be controlled by asking what’s the sand comes from for the tray manufacture to forecast if there will be big differences between the two. Sounds a tall order unless you put a break at the door and address the room al-a- @Onoff‘s solution.

….and @PeterW Praise the lord !!!!!!!!! 121 photos in there ? Thanks for that, didn't even know that folder existed .

Not forgetting the PCM34 has been out of circulation for what seems forever . Other low temp models will surface soon enough but I’ve no useful info on that yet I’m afraid. Rumour has it that improved, and now ‘on board’, controls are in production so I’ll update ASAP on that as I get some training ( hopefully ). I just got trained up on the fitting of a trio of SA units fed only from a split high temp ASHP for load-shifting off E10. I’ll post some pics when I get copies ( as my daughter was deleting them off her iPad at home as I was taking them after I had linked it to my Apple ID to set it up and had not logged back out ??? ). Lost loads before I realised where they were going ? Need to see if there’s a way of recovering lost pics off iCloud. Gutted.

In the attic where the 15’s are bunched.

Spray foam around the groups of pipe that you now cannot lag Saw it all square after and rejoice in not having to move the b’stards ?

Yes. No problem at all. The DC cables need terminating and anyone working there made aware that they could be live on a sunny day. If you connect optimisers but not the inverter then it won’t be a problem as the optimisers won’t let voltage through iirc.

Yes, correct, and the terminology is "room sealed" ( R/S ) type appliance

Making a hole in the fabric is nothing to worry about, as long as the person making it is good at their job Sealing a duct in first, with a slightly larger diameter than the flue, is what I do. Then you can tape from the internal bore of the duct to the airtight layer far more effectively. The flue then simply gets pushed through ( with an equal gap all around between it and the duct ) and intumescent foam injected all round to form a mechanical and airtight fix. When cured, cut the foam back half inch either side and finish the seal with CT1 / similar to protect the foam from insect / rodent attack. I turned @vivienz‘s airtight layer into Swiss cheese to get various services in / out, and after I put that right it got an AT test result of 0.25ach. ? Its not the size of the dog in the fight, it’s the size of the fight in the dog

It’s just binary, on or off. A TRV operates proportionally so offers smoother heating curves. I’ve done one house as you’re proposing, but tbh I wouldn’t do another like that as the room is hostage to the hysteresis of the stat. That’s fine for a centrally mounted room stat with a decent reference of the ambient, but not so great for a room with say 3 outside walls and big windows etc where a finer degree of control ( TRV ) would perform better. I don’t have links, but a bit of searching on here will dig up info on what others have used. Heatmiser gets a few mentions, but Honeywell, Nest and Hive etc seem quite robust solutions, just I’m not familiar with them as I’m mostly now servicing passive ( ish ) clientele on single central stats.

Ok, I’ll await the colour and get back to you by pm.

Inside is a no-brainer eg within the heated envelope, but you're losing only a few quid per annum to lose that tbh so not a game-changer. In even a crap garage you'll not have any serious frost risk beyond normal pipe insulation etc plus the frost stat. Only killer with it that far out is the delay getting DHW from the cold start of the combi, up to temp, through the pipe runs and to the taps. That will be a serious delay, especially at the basin taps where there is low flow.

My guy is ringing me back today ( if he gets the info ) to confirm if RAL 7016 is available with the cheaper door. To save a couple more quid, you can have the inside white, but there's not much in it tbh. He would probably only do supply and fit if coming a distance as he'd be losing a sale of a door otherwise ( prob 10-15% uplift ), but even though I could have sourced my own front door I still let him supply and fit for me as I didn't want to remove all the meat off the bone for him. This is of course a second choice, and if you can source online and get a local chippy in, then this is a one day, one visit job at most for any decent fitter.

It would be a frame / door combo if you went for composite ( so no maintenance / painting ) but you could keep the lining and replace just the door. Which would you prefer? A composite door plus frame wont be cheap but the annoyance of the frame rotting out with the cost of a new door would be a pita. Straight door change would be a job for a local chippy, but my guy would come out and do the door if it was a new / replacement. Only problem with the RAL colour is IIRC its not available on the cheaper uPVC doors. You can go for a cheaper door / frame combo in uPVC if you're happy with anthracite not the true RAL? Example I can ask for a ball-park figure if you want the composite? Any need to go 'mad'? eg higher security with the composite.

In @MarkA‘s were using similar for a lot of stuff, and have agreed to run switch / live wires from every 230v point of switching back to a dim-rail loaded project box so all the z-wave / other items don’t have to be squeezed into the 47mm backboxes. Is home automation on the menu? Why z-wave? There are a lot of WiFi based plug n play heating / DHW control systems out there which require next to no complex wiring / controls / design / operation etc straight out of the box.

My PVC guy may travel up. Supply and fit and a new composite door if you like? Just need some measurements. He’s just done my front door. ? Composite is more expensive but has much better security and is available in all sorts of colours. Is that black or charcoal ?

On bigger radiators you'll need to balance well, but yes, should be fine reducing at the radiator. I've done it a bunch of times as it does look a lot neater. Why go with the grief of the manifold? Hepworth stuff is bombproof, so you could just plumb generically ( series, descending in size 22 > 15 ) with tees at each rad. Then for zoning go for an open-source TRV system with a central hub + wifi.?

Too late. ?

I've lost a lot of weight since then I'll have you know. Peer pressure from my son who now has me in his mobile as 'captain big tits'...…. ?