Nickfromwales

Some pics please.

You should be insulating the slab somehow too, assuming you’ll put a radiator out there. So I also assume you’ll know you’ll need to dig the pathway up to install footings for the brick walls? A new slab will be needed with insulation and DPM to form the floor. Insulation needs to go against the brickwork, so use Marmox boards (minimum 40mm) to clad those, stopping short of where the cavity gets closed by the external leaf of new brickwork. Then drill and fix the timber studs / frames to that, using foam and fixings. You'll need to fit DPC everywhere to stave off any future damp issues. Not contacting the pillar would be best, as per your previous.

Every days is a school day, for all of us mate

Standard window and door frames are solid material, wood or alu, or PVC etc. A thermally broken frame will have a layer of something (cork often used in wooden windows) as a means of separating the exterior and interior halves of the frame. Pull out the compriband and set it to one side. Use kitchen roll etc to remove any obvious moisture. Get some Illbruck 330FM foam and seal up under the threshold. Have you used a foam gun before? On amazon you can buy disposable tips which give you a means of getting the foam much deeper into the cavity, LINK, which you fix onto the gun by pushing them on and then tape in place with a good few turns of pvc electrical tape so that it doesn't fall off 'mid squirt'. Any residual moisture will be absorbed and dissipated over the following few days, so don't worry about 'trapped' moisture, it'll find it's way outta there by itself.

Or around here…”sex pond”.

Make the hot tub a-la ICF?

KISS. Stuff a load of A1 rated loose rockwool down the garage side of the ducting, and leave it 20mm below the slab. Then pour some SLC in as a cap. Will stop rodents too.

Add some counter battens and take the FR plasterboard down to 10mm shy of the slab, then fill the void with intumescent mastic. Then put a skirting on top for mechanical protection.

Is the frame thermally broken? Or are these standard units?

I’d say the tape which is exposed to both ice cold and room temp is now a place for condensation to form. My money would be on the frame not being fully foamed 360°, preventing cold and drafts getting to the rear of the tape. Look from outside and see how well (usually not) the unit was sealed up from weather, and report back. Dont forget the time of year!

If you alter the sides then it’s a complete new set of structural engineering drawings.

“If it don’t fit, it don’t fit” 🤠

Anybody want to have a stab at how long an ASHP will last, vs a good quality gas boiler? This also needs to be factored in.

The quick fix here is to grab the screw and put it back in. Slows the flow, or if you’re gentle can actually nearly stop it altogether. Just looking for a chicken emoji lol.

Downside is by the time the pillar is built there won’t be the width left to install 2x 2.4m (OP is 50mm shy on that before adding the pillar width). @New to this A pillar will be fragile unless tied in by design, so would need to be a decent offering. The first time you bumped into a single brick wide pillar it would fall apart. You could fit a 100x100mm box section steel post, or even 150x150mm, and then dress it and fit brick slips to it so you’re less than 150/200mm wide but strong as feck. This wouldn’t affect your existing plans / designs, and means you could revert back to original. Steel would just have some tabs top and bottom for fixing it in robustly. FWIW, I’d need a very good reason to fit 2 smaller doors vs one useful larger one, but I’d also have a side or rear door for occasional visits. Standard size garage doors are pretty pants, but I guess moot if you’re not putting a vehicle, or maybe only one vehicle in there? Pointless unless you can comfortably open the doors on the car.

Hi, and welcome aboard There are building regs conditions which kick in after a building is about 30m2, so yours would provoke a b regs submission too. Or, you could do 2 adjoins buildings and then link them together ‘quietly’. You’ll need to build 1000mm from the boundary to avoid a whole world of pain with fire related criteria, so read lots here and consider how you approach planners (well in advance of actually doing so) to avoid getting tangled up in expensive, unnecessary grief. Can you build it narrower and longer, for example. Also consider use, as you ‘shouldn’t’ run a business from there obvs.

As above. All the best for another year of staring at one tiny problem for waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long. And then realising it didn't REALLY matter that much after all. Adios 2025, here we go for 2026. Get your house built asap, or it'll be 2027 and I'll be telling you off again

You don’t need local, it’s a desktop job . If you need someone just PM me.

All seems kosher to me. Why the overlay UFH? You can just put the UFH pipes onto the insulation, adding 20(?)mm more slab insulation to boot. Then just pour the screed / concrete as your finished slab. Flooring then goes directly on to the heated slab. Cheaper and better, just takes a little longer to warm up but a good setback timer will deal with that.

Seeing that pic from inside with the bay floating, I think you’re right. Most likely they put a steel in there when it was converted to 2-storey tbh.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/79-mechanical-ventilation-with-heat-recovery-mvhr/

Maybe a good opportunity to poke an inspection camera in one of the bigger gaps, to look down to check that there’s no masonry that has become lodged in the cavity and is bridging the damp.

Managing ventilation heat loss and recovering the heat that is otherwise lost, are 2 factors that come together here. Airtight + MVHR is the base layer, and imho insulation levels are something to improve where you practically can, as the cherry on the cake. Airtight with a good quality, high recovery MVHR brings down the heat loads, so that boosts longevity of the ASHP. It’s all of this brought together that needs to be considered as “the answer”. Ones no good without the other.

The entire brick facade (either side of the bay and above) are as one. That’s how the upstairs brickwork is defying gravity. The first floor joist probably carry on and protrude out through gaps in the brickwork, like fingers, which forms the structure that makes the canopy. Other option is that there’s just a timber framework fixed to the brickwork, like a tent frame, and the downstairs bay forms some of the structural strength. A lot of these types of arrangements often used hardwood window frames to bear loads, and then they got cut out and replaced with uPVC, and then these show signs of failure associated with weight bearing on them (which they can’t cope with).

To wrap this up……. ”No” 👎