Nickfromwales

If you have a kitchen space that can be remodelled with a full 180° flip, then you have the first one I’ve ever seen. Kitchens are quite specific and usually the space will be used and optimised from day 1, so a refurb would be bound by those terms. Hypothesising about a room that would likely never exist isn’t a great way to use the limited days off we get. I pipe under most islands, and peninsulas, if going low temp / raft down etc, unless it’s completely obvious that the space will only ever be dressed the same way, even if it’s fully remodelled; a peninsula may become detached and become an island and vice versa, so the only other consideration for future proofing is to cable and pipe for an island, maybe adding hot and cold + waste connections there (to use from day 1 or to install in abeyance) to allow that to become an island. After that…..we’d all need Mystic Meg to sign up and show us the future…. 🧙‍♀️

It’ll usually be the same volume / area of units if a kitchen gets flipped around, so given doorways and windows etc, you can’t really change certain rooms that much. Planning a solution for 50 years or even 30 years from now is bonkers imho, as at that point lifting the floor and re-piping the UFH wouldn’t be considered a real drag. Would also be the end of the serviceable lifetime of the system anyways. Always best to remain completely sane when deciding how to do these things, as way too many people stare into a crystal ball and try to navigate ‘right now’ into ‘the future’. 10 to 20 year plans are reasonable, but after that it’s just money and time down the drain.

The larger ones should be 3/4” x 15mm so you have copper compression not BSP ‘irons’ to connect to. The difference is one has a chamfered internal edge to accept the olive (you find the same opposing chamfer inside the compression nut). The BSP irons have a flat face, which is what you’d connect a tap connector to. Tap connectors have either a rubber or a nylon washer to squash up against the flat face. ......However! The good people at Hepworth do a tap connector which is supplied with 2 different profiles for the rubber seal, and one is chamfered; the flat ‘square’ one goes in the bin or the spare’s tray, and the chamfered rubber will work for you here. If the 3/4” fittings can be wound out, you can put a 3/4” bush in and then PTFE these and wind them into the bushes

Shouldn’t. Not couldn’t. Anything can be done etc etc, just why would you is my point. You don’t need a solution if you don’t create a problem, basically, so you would put the pipe in the open area and go for tighter cc to get more w/m2 in the room vs emit the heat in an closed space such as the kick space and then have to push it into the room mechanically.

IMO if you’ve got a lot of pipe down, not only can you ‘turn it down’, but it also increases system volume. Win-win afaic, plus most MCS installs won’t bend to a clients whims of what they are convinced will work sufficiently. Filling the entire area with pipe, at 200mm cc or less is normal, not abnormal, so it depends on how sure you are of the system’s ability to perform (but that decision being made before you can practically test this out and prove the theory). Aka “rolling the dice”.

What about opening the window?

No dice. That’s a plinth heater. It sucks air in via the left and right grilles, and blows out via the centre grille. Fitted loads, but you wouldn’t have a plinth heater and UFH .

@Susie @DevonMade Brink are easily as reliable and perform almost identically, better in fact with certain models / sizes, to the Zehnder units, but Brink is cheaper. Beware ordering online as you may not get uk service repair under warranty, as with Brink you need to go through an authorised seller to get after-sales.

Airtight, so I’m assuming MVHR, so constantly doing this.

You just throw 8:1 sand/cement down in a heap, make a void in the centre after mixing it up, and fill that with water. You then just mix it in on itself until it’s a consistency like thick soup. Bring a hose in and wet all the floors next. Not quite so it’s puddling but very wet. You’ll see it drying as you go, so just wet the areas you’re actually doing. Then just push it around with a stiff brush, going back and forth in opposites and diagonals. Watch you don’t flick it up the walls though! Do a small room / area first to gauge quantity and get the hang of it, then do a bigger mix / area next and so on. Dead easy to do.

Well spotted. Nowhere near enough fixings have been used. @dan_cup, one top an one bottom, repeated as much as you can afford.

The heart wants, what the heart wants.

You are like a wrinkly ninja............and we never know when you will next strike, silently, but always deadly.

Not so much if it’s solid masonry, but it’s defo not a good idea to have a (pumped) manifold on a bedroom wall. I always strategise where plant / etc is going to be located, but these pumped ones are defo not ‘completely silent’ and us humans tend to try our hardest to listen for something, hear it, and then tune into it to torment ourselves forever more. One clock in my living room met its maker due the the stupid-loud ticking and tocking. 🪦 🕰️ ☠️ 👍

No probs. If you want you can add one of these in the cupboard to ensure you don’t use more timed peak rate than necessary (eg you won’t forget to turn it off). Link

To remove ambiguity, @Apache, I’d use SIPs as the very last option before just using brick and blocks to build with. Have you PROPERLY looked into the small print for what’s going to be delivered, and then how you’d likely have to add to / dress it up afterwards to get it to a decent spec? SIPs roofs are also very noisy / horribly acoustically transparent in comparison to a good, cellulose filled equivalent structure. Same issue with walls too, but less affected by rain / bad weather etc as the roof. Find a suitable thread and blow the dust off it if you want. More replies / opinions / case studies here than you can shake a stick at.

The scaffold will need to be certified and tagged, for use by others. What you use yourself has near zero bearing on CDM, but who will be acting as principal contractor? It’s they who have the full weight of this come down on them in the event of serious injury or loss of life.

It’ll be directly behind or to the side of the bed! Maybe set some steel L section rising out of the screed and mount the manifold off the wall slightly, but I’d not want that mounted on a TF / stud of a bedroom. Caveat is, that’s if it has a pump on it. Do you have an initial ASHP / plant design and specification for all this yet?

Then don’t waste money on the wood burner?!?! You’ll light it once, melt to death, and then use it as an ornament. If you can’t get a wood burner ‘roaring’ then the process of proper combustion and incineration doesn’t occur, so lots of nasties in the glue and off to upset the neighbours. Are you allowing for that to be a room sealed / externally fed appliance?

Doesn’t bother anyone, but if there’s nobody coordinating on site then it opens up unnecessary risk. @junglejim, as them to remove the hallway loop and take all the other flows and returns through that thoroughfare, as it doesn’t need its own specific loop. Expand the (return) of the porch loop into the last 1/4 of the hallway and then you can take all feeds through doorways.

I’d move the manifold off the wall of the bedroom too!!

What cc have they proposed? At less than 200mm cc you cannot perform a U-turn with 16mm (pert-al) metal lined pipe.

Correct. I doubt you need to double check, as this is a standard setup. Breaker in the peak rate CU > kitchen switch > RHS switch at cylinder. Breaker in the off peak CU > LHS switch at the cylinder. As said the kitchen switch is for those who fully fill that cupboard with ‘life valuables’ and ergo can’t get in there to easily flick the RHS (aux hot water) switch on / off.

Porcelanosa in Cardiff delivered 120m2 of 600x600 polished porcelain to a job in had going on. I took one look at them and said ‘send them back’. Clients looked at me as if I was a loony. I got a used teabag and some red wine, and splashed the tile / left teabag on for 5 mins. I said to go clean the tile afterwards and it remained like Gorbachev’s forehead. Teabag stain 90% gone but still notable. Back the tiles went. Clients were hopping mad at the supplier, and very grateful for my intervention. They’d specifically asked about resilience to these things, and were assured outright that zero effect was possible. Don’t believe everything you’re told people.

2 consumer units, so possibly 2 meters? E7 loads on one, other on the second. Not sure how this could be run off a new supplier / discipline. Off peak immersion via kitchen switch will be E7, and the other immersion will be off peak rate 24/7 CU.