Nickfromwales

If it helps, the SVP can be reduced to 3” after the last WC is picked up. It’s only carrying air at that stage so capacity is no longer a factor. You can still T in a sink / bath / shower etc to the reduced SVP, it’s just solids that aren’t ideal at the smaller diameter. You can actually have a single WC feed into 3” pipe, but nobody does it.

Defo.

Yes, but what exactly is the point in fitting pump isolation valves, if you change them every time you change the pump? May as well just hard plumb the pumps at that stage. Worth seeing if they hold as it's a basement or summat by the look of it, so a few drops of water ain't gonna hurt, but the changeover will be a 30 min job.

With DPM and PIR over it, any issues will stay subterranean for sure. Full steam ahead!

Not the kind of thing you want falling off

Also didn’t help that the French chap who supported, pissed of back to the land of the baguette with the female connectors……after showing me and saying to keep them safe…..after supposedly leaving them for me to do the final hookup. lol.

Sorry, we seem to have missed this. It’s the original slab you’ve levelled?

Should be plenty beefy enough. Just need to have these in reasonably high frequency if the glass is to be leant against / accident / misadventure etc.

I fixed the little windmill on to a patio slab, on a previous clients job, and set it down onto a section of flat roof where it was out of sight. Wont you lose the warranty without it installed? Even if it’s disconnected. Agree, there’s not much room with the Somfy switches, and making off the 0.75mm2 5-core was a git. 1.5mm2 is way overkill, as that’ll take 18amps. 3a or 5a fuse on these from memory, so 0.75mm2 is ample.

Defo need a water store on site there?! Always good to explore if a mist system will be permissible, as these use next to bugger all water and don’t need a huge supply. Distribution pipework is just like a beefy (braided) garden hose, so is a doddle to get 1st fixed. Current client is 200m to the road.

Cool. Just better to not void the warranty of your new equipment, so see if they have a product to give you.

Yes, got that, thanks. I meant that the spark wired to humidistat to be on 24/7, so is likely to just be on the loop in and not connected to the lights. This means the culprit seems to be the fan. I'd contact the manufacturer and ask if they can provide a snubber and give details of where it should be connected to rid you of the issue. At least this should discount the dimmer / light switching.

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We had to do sprinklers at >45m for my client in MK.

So you have a separate switch for lights, that doesn’t provoke the fan to come on at all? And a second switch to trigger the fan to start and overrun. And the humidity stat is permanently powered and switches on / off of its own free will?

The batten needs to be higher up, so it doesn’t get hammered by bounce back from rainfall. IMHO, the membrane should be flapping a bit there to promote drip / runoff, vs being clamped tight by the batten. Just feels like that would hold / harbour moisture too much (my simple opinion).

Good stuff. Velux can be controlled by a wall remote, and iirc these can provoke the opening at a particular set point, eg you then don’t have to run around upstairs checking room temps to decide to open them or not. That would be a hellish existence, and imho wholly impractical, but as above also then reliant on human interventions. Automating that, very simply, seems a perfect solution, and offers zero reliance on any occupant.

I’ve worked for 2 clients, both have done new builds in the rear ‘garden’, both needed automatic fire suppression due to access / distance to road and boundary etc. Your builder friend seems disinterested, probably because of a life hitting blocks to split them and working in the rain and mud for x number of decades. Stop listening to him. Grab life by the horns and explore this project for yourself!!! Levels of enthusiasm should come from what the goal is, so you’ll be much more engaging if this is a new, energy efficient and low maintenance and running cost dwelling that would then become a perfect forever home. Or it could be a stepping stone and an investment opportunity for you to make a move to such a place etc etc.

Handheld ones can carve valleys into the surface in seconds, so beware to not do more harm than good. I’d defo go for the upright and start with just taking a whisker off the surface, and remember to keep the machine moving at all times. Any time you need to stop, lift the machine. This isn’t a job for the front-hearted btw, and we recently had to drop an concrete raft down about 15mm (door and window supply and fit company fecked the job up royally, setting the front door down way too low to the slab as it was too big, and when I laid a tile down dry the front door wouldn’t open inwards as it was hitting 90% of the 9mm tile!). My mate came to the rescue, and did 2 days of grinding and smoothing out, over around 30m2 to feather it out. He told me we’re not friends anymore, and not to call him the next time 🤣. Hire the big machine for a day, try and area that you can sacrifice as a tester, and then remember you’ll need the smaller detail grinder to do corners and areas that the big machine can’t get to. Beware that the upright machine will chew through the job at a much faster rate than the detail grinder, so don’t make those areas then a load of grief by going to far with the upright machine. Mask anything such as skirting or units so as to not damage them, with Antinox sheets / other.

Horse and the cart seem a bit confused here tbh. @andeebee, do you have a pic of the architects section for this roof build up?

I think we have found the problem! Just re-read your first post…. Are you saying you have a dimmer switch controlling these lights? If so that needs to go, and the sparky should have told you this. LED dimming causes all sorts of grief, plus you can’t control fans or timers with a variable voltage input such as a dimmer. Afaic, this needs to be a regular switch, so if you can, change that over and test it again. @James94 also, you need the overrun for when someone’s used the loo, so there’s no reason why these two functions should be working without issue.

Defo supposed to be a VCL. Breather would be on the external surfaces. With correct detailing, it could become the AVCL, but a lot of questions would need answering to assure you of this, plus a lot more attention to detailing. Are you having MVHR? I can't recall.

Piss poor planning, which any decent professional should be discussing ahead of the works commencing, and including in the game plan for when works begin. Keep your chin up, as these improvements will pay dividends over time. Defo worth the extra hard work and time that you're putting in.

You are "within tolerance".... Go enjoy the beer and sit with the other half.

Gravity system with a heat only boiler? I'm less of a fan of Grundfos these days, and am steering towards Wilo more often. The 5 means 5m head, so most off the shelf standard circulators will do the job. This one may suit your needs and should be available locally LINK Hopefully the pump valves will hold well enough for a deft switch over, but expect them to not close fully.