Nickfromwales

Over 2m it can be virtually flat. It’ll have the velocity of the flushed water to get you well clear of the first straight running pipe and off down south. I did an en-suite where a Saniflow was constantly blocking / breaking down, and the clients asked me to find a route to the manhole. Due to other services the 5m run had to lay pretty much completely flat, with a very slight fall for the last 1.5m; when I say slight, almost no distinguishable movement of the bubble on the level. Works perfectly, in my mates FIL house, and has been doing so for the last 15 years. Regs are wonderful, when life’s wonderful, but if you ask a BCO for a deviation, and demonstrate that it flushes perfectly 10 times in a row, they’ll just say “fine”. If you have b regs involved? If not, fit the 2m run with the absolute max fall you can introduce, and move on to the next problem. It’ll be fine.

How secure does it need to be? Can it just be like a carport?

Does the hot water cylinder get the flow temp displayed going to the cylinder when calling for hot water?

@EinTopaz Sounds like a restriction. Can you post some pics of the valves under the boiler, the ones that actually connect to it. This stinks of one of the flow or return valves being only partially open. Next check is to remove the head off the zone valve and move the spindle manually. Do this with the boiler at 70° and then see if the temp shoots up on the flow pipe stat.

So can be done with a pre-insulated underground pipe. Maybe better to have the HP away from the new house, and accept the additional losses from the UG pipe. Low temp for space heating will be near zero loss, but it’ll get a bit worse if you send high temps down it for DHW. Consider compromises which mean charging the UVC in the house off cheap rate electricity (solar PV?) and not off the HP. Dead simple, and very low stresses on the HP then too.

Cavity doesn’t really matter, it’s just about the wall profile here tbh. If you do a mock up you can ask the posi gods to dress the ends for you to sit on flat. They add the wedges and away you go. “Plonk & play”. Wall plate sits across both, flat, and posis made to fit on as per the above. We accept your apology. Don’t do it again.

Ah. Found you! Why are you all alone in this room, by yourself?

2x 45’s may give you more wriggle room then.

At least it’s not an AMG, or you’d be out there more often Bloody oil cooler this weekend and it’s front end off……again. Gotta love a V8 though lol.

@MortarThePoint You may need the 2x 45° option if there’s a sudden change in levels. Also, I’m sure most of these square pots drop into a round socket, so you can rotate the pot and the grille stays square to the house.

I'm not so sure your bespoke design would get through MCS, as it's very much away from a "standard installation". For BUS you need an MCS accredited designer and installer, and I think most would cry for their mummy when they are asked to do something that they didn't do yesterday, and the day before, and repeat. I'd buy a cheap as chips ASHP for the outbuilding, and feck the idea of a grant off, and install some fan coils. The go BUS for the house? If I've got this right.

Just order the posis with a longer upper chord Have that long enough to fly over the top of the wall so the OSB has something to fix down into. Then fix the longer chords to the wall plate. This allows a bit more movement between structural elements vs the OSB trying to contend with the movement of the posis vs wall plate. The edpm will heat up and cool down seasonally, expanding and contracting, so I’d consider creating some ‘give’ at that junction.

If R&D had said “let’s use emulsion”, or something else, one assumes they’d be using it? This was a concept born in the states and franchised over here, afaik. So it’s been around, successfully, for some time apparently.

They say it’s akin to pva. Not sure where that sits in the periodic table? 👀

Is this staying as the long term solution? If so, time to add the second pump and a 25L volumiser, and max out on efficient operation / longevity. Or, get a cheap as chips ASHP and put good money after good. Can you install the house ASHP there and export heat to the new build later on, via an underground pre-insulated umbilical, when you do the house? The one ASHP can then heat both spaces / buildings.

Bad idea. Keep heating and hot water well apart. Just use a 50L volumiser and a very small heat pump. Why not go to a split A2A setup and have the bliss of AC to compliment the bit of heating you need? Then just use cheap electric to heat DHW in an oversized UVC.

You can ask the timber merchant to cut the 8x4 down to 4x4 to make it more manageable. If you’re doing this yourself, you’ll have bigger balls than most! Good luck, and make sure you search this place for plumbing tips etc, or just ask more questions and we’ll do our best to try and not let you feck it up.

I’ve just done an MVHR retrofit in quite a large, 3-storey residential home, and you’d be surprised how you can blend a radial system in to an existing house. You can use multiples of smaller bore ducting to replace one larger one, for eg, with duct sizes down to 50mm, 75mm (and 92mm being the largest you need for radial). No need for rigid 100/125/150 etc, as all the big bore stuff is at the unit only. Two left ducts were fresh and exhaust to atmosphere. Right hand pair dropped under the unit via 2x acoustic attenuators to the manifolds. And that was all in a very compact cupboard space. This is 3x 92mm ducts, soon to be boxed, plastered and painted to allow them to blend in. Transfer grilles are a great way to cheat out of getting a duct to a particularly problematic space, but the caveat is needing higher flow rates in the room that is then sucking or blowing through two. Oversizing the unit is good advice too. It’s doable if you get someone with a bit of an engineering based brain and some tenacity.

lol. Carted a few around and my bollocks are still in mint condition Most would have a +1 on these jobs.

Defo overkill to have an IC to do this. Option B is a plenty good enough (normal) solution, afaic.

Bingo.

As always, you get what you pay for @HighlandWoman ask questions of the quality of the plywood, and get a good installer.

If I was going to buy 18mm ply and then pay someone to fit 18mm ply, I’d at least want to consider going to 25mm and see if it was a much better, long term solution, than to find 18mm was just ‘ok’. UK b regs is a “standard” it’s just a totally crap standard and the worst job you can do legally. Nothing to strive for!! If a few more £10’s can make an ok job into a great one, and then that negates the plasterboard, then on paper it would be cheaper and better?

And?

Do you have a picture of it? And if it’s small, as above, just leave it alone as joists can be drilled without compromise, and tbh a filler would only be for aesthetics.