Nickfromwales

Behind timber you need an uninterrupted airgap, so the fire stop has to be a flat, intumescent strip. It cant be a cheaper rockwool sock in this instance.

18L is a big expansion vessel, so that's just absorbing the expansion and not letting it reflect much in the reading on the pressure gauge. It's all gold mate, as you've done the right thing by over-sizing vs under-sizing, and this will mean you won’t need to top up the pressure as often. My 2 cents is that you can never have too much expansion. Do you know you have to treat the system with inhibitor after these works, to prevent corrosion? Also, do you know you will have to check the system pressure every 3-6 months, or possibly more frequently, as part of switching out from auto-fill from the tanks to regular maintenance of a sealed and pressurised system?

AB give you a price per m2 iirc, so just pick up the phone They don't tax you if you're masonry / leaky etc, they just turn up, do their thing, and vamoose! Really good experience and an amazing result (1.2 test down to high 0.1's)....on a masonry refurb.

A thing of beauty.

I can tell you're unnerved, as you forgot that D comes after C, awwww.....bless. a) Its solid brass, so you need to argue with your wife over something utterly trivial, for a minimum period of 30 mins, then go cut it with a hacksaw with a 32tpi blade. b) use a Hep2o fitting which will allow rotation and be bombproof. Need to see the link to advise further. c1) one isolator is sufficient. 2 is greedy. Put this anywhere where you can get to it. c2) (the rest of us call this a "D" ) as per the video, turn the nut so the belled end goes into the plate, and that then acts like a universal joint so the plate finishes flat and vertical. Remember from a health and safety POV, when you've cut through the thick brass the blade of the hacksaw will be VERY VERY hot, so turn to your missus and say "Can't touch this". Safety first

If you video yourself doing that, step by step, I'll come and fit the (expletive deleted)er myself for free

Apparently, if you move like this, the tap will more or less fit itself.

Shhhhh................. They could be listening.....

Exactly what kit did you buy? Do you have a link to it?

Time to push a bit harder? As long as it still has friction, it'll still function as a marker. It's disposable after that?

You wont have your head up the chimney smelling for #2's It's about the stench from the stench pipe aka SVP wafting into a habitable room.

Fitted a few of these but iirc I had to lengthen them for PH dwellings where the walls were thicker than the tap was long. @Spinny, just put the black bit onto the tap without the bar, to see where it seats. Note the position of the face of the plastic bit. Then put the bar in and put the black bit on the end. Measure the two points, face when planted, and face when out too far, and that's the amount to cut off.

Grinding heads are a consumable of this process. You’d need to explain what you want to do to the hire company, area to grind etc, and ask their advice on the expected mileage of these things, plus the cost.

Indeed. Last MBC project, where space was tight, I took the 110mm and converted it to 2x 50mm where it was guaranteed to be dry / just a vent only, and then took the 2x 50’s to the attic space and fitted 2x 50mm AAV’s up there (so they could be accessible). Done this a load of times and it works a treat, including going to 4x 32mm and back to 110mm with an “elephant foot” fitting upside down in the attic / service space, so I could use a 110mm AAV. Also have used 225x25mm ducting to take a vent up within a service batten void (another MBC build) with only 35mm to plant with.

Now I’m the complete opposite. Yes to putting something on the threads, but I always clean the mating faces and that allows the rubber to have friction. This otherwise, in the hands of someone not doing this day in day out, can lead to the rubber just being displaced and ending up in the centre of the fitting doing feck all. Threads yes, mating faces clean and dry for me.

1000%

Take that with a big pinch of salt. Consider what that document is actually telling you, which is that if you stay inside for “a few” days a year, you’ll be clinging to life (not just a little uncomfortable). I had the same argument (robust discussion) with a PH certified architectural practice, and beat the lead architect by 1%. PHPP just focuses on the building, and nigh-on ignores the poor buggers locked inside. This particular client then abandoned the £1k they’d invested in the architects recommended M&E designer and went with me, with said architects blessing. When I finished picking apart their proposal, the chap simply said “if all else fails, then you can just fit 2x AC units and that’ll fix any issues” ffs. The list of faux pas was long. They’re no longer the clients architect…as they politely disengaged soon after, with a boatload of the clients money gone forever. Unfortunately, most folk simply don’t know what lays ahead, but it is very difficult to convey this to someone such as myself, who’s coming from fossil fuel heating in a poor performing current residence, as to the new and different way in which they will find themselves then living. Oh, what a difference there is! Like night and day different. Consider how horrible a summer is in your (and my) current home, and then multiply it x3.

The spade is for me to dig my own hole, if the house floods when he pulls the pump out

Apologies, it’s late. I don’t buy cheap, so would go towards recommendations from colleagues who install this stuff on a day to day basis. If it’s one summer room or garden office, I’d recommend a cheap and cheerful, best-of-the-worst Chinese offering. For one current client (>£1.5m) I would only recommend going with one of the big hitters, LG / Samsung / Daikin / Fujitsu / Panasonic etc. This is because of after sales support, parts procurement, more robust installer network / longevity and quality of the kit and so on. To be less evasive, I look at kit to suit a remit, and as I don’t directly install domestic AC I don’t have a go-to manufacturer, specifically, as a blanket solution. I do, however, have some excellent strategic partners who I reach out to in my hour(s) of need. Ive lost count of how many times I’ve recommended a particular piece of equipment or a manufacturer, and then during the construction phase I’ve said that “we’re not going with that any more, and here’s why!”. I maintain, the shoe must fit, so each client gets a few offerings laid out in front of them (“bronze, silver, gold”), and the pros cons and caveats explained comprehensively for each option, and then they are in a position to be left alone to make their own, informed decision based on the information that I’ve gathered and shared.

The correct one for the particular instance, of course! I don’t copy / cut / paste, so each job starts on a clean bit of A4. Not lost a patient yet.

Exactly what I’m doing for 2 current new build clients. The more I look into it, after a bit over 10 years focussing my interests in the “PH” arena, the more and more this makes absolutely perfect sense.

@jfb Get your wellies ready son, we’re going in…..

Not the stems, just the pump nuts. Also, brass doesn’t rust so it’s the pump that’s corroding not the valves. Very likely the original pump has those nasty rigid washers, not the modern, more compliant rubber ones. Dog. Bone. 🤣

@NCXo82ike Have you not thermally decoupled the steel from the concrete? I use different products to achieve this, with Bosig Phonotherm on the most recent clients project. If the steels are already in, then defo look at a spray foam, but box the areas you wish to insulate, using release agent, and fill the voids. Then remove the boxing in to make way for bonding on Marmox boards to then accept plaster skim coat + paint.

Likewise, but these aren’t original-looking, old ass valves in the op. You know I’m like a dog with a bone so this one’s worth a bit of (maybe mis) adventure afaic. “What if they work?” 👀