Nickfromwales

@Jammy5, excuse Gus, he's old and grumpy, but is well intentioned. As am I....well, old-ish. @Gus Potter, kinder words, softly spoken..... Go at these lazy pricks with some gusto. Go call them out. If you need a professional confidante to support I'll help you out. These kind of architects piss me soooooooooooo badly off, bunch of pretentious wankers most of them. I've chewed so many up, and spat them out, and my qualifications allow me to drive a vehicle on UK roads.

I pinned this thread, as it's defo a keeper.

Nobody has, and nobody will Any such details would be shared by the staff here in total confidence.

When I was treasurer, we took it down when we had say ~12 months of running costs in the coffers. The plan then being that when we're at <25% we'd raise the flag again, and so on. Ergo, the banner / tab went up and down according to demand; the thought was that we didn't want to flood the coffers unecessarily.

@Spinny Was it you being over-zealous with the FR plasterboard or your BCO? I had to sober one such BCO up recently for exactly the same thing, and plenty more before him, about that being absolutely NOT a requirement. He said "it needs to be there", and I said "prove it". It did not go in. Too many dicks out there with red pens afaic.

That sounds like you may avoid the place for the next 20 years 😆😆😆 Glad you got sorted.

400mm roof / 300mm wall hi-performance offering almost every single time, with only 1 project ever going for the next cost level down from that; the PIR + rockwool option, which I didn't like much because of the inherent (and annoying) acoustic transparency. You do pay a lot, but you get a lot, and you will get to enjoy the relaxed processes and the joy of a turnkey frame & founds package from a company (MBC) who consistently deliver excellent standards. As you stare into this section of roof, where the fink trusses are, you should expect to see the airtight membrane and battens, then 400mm of insulation, and some additional timber to create the 400mm void. Dead simple. If you have a triangular void, then I assure you it's not getting pumped full to the brim with cellulose!! And no cellulose can escape, by definition, as it's all (100% of it) pumped in behind the airtight layer. Something has been lost in translation here methinks!! As said, if I can see a sectional drawing I could comment more robustly, but if we're talking about a space where you could just about fit the Xmas decorations then that's a different story. I've not enough info to go on sorry.

I've been holding off as it's taken a while to digest, between the other things I have to do to keep 6 people alive lol. The black (XPS?) is friable, so cannot be bonded to the way you have tried, as the surface area just isn't sufficient for any decent kind of permanent purchase. @Spinny I see (and assume) you've tried to thermally disconnect the Habito from the frame, but this just isn't robust. Instead, I would mask the frame off (Frog tape or PVC electricians tape) so the surface of the frame doesn't get damaged, and pump a load of clear CT1 in the gap between the black XPS and the frame; I'd open the gap with some packers, then pump the goop in, and then push the XPS back towards the frame to encourage them to form a "Spice Girls" connection (two become one). The ideal would be to have the Habito cut and ready, and to fit it into the then still wet CT1, and brace it with a length of 4x2 to maintain its form during the curing process. As it'll be screwed top the inboard timber batten one side, the 4x2 should only need to offer a little restraint overnight. You'll need to work pretty quickly though, and control the excess amount of goop and it's subsequent displacement onto the masking tape. You will need to clean this away with some stout cardboard and some baby wipes, and then use the excess to coat the surface of the XPS, by spreading the displaced goop instead of binning it. Once you have a boded XPS board, and that and the frame are stuck together forever, whilst this is still all wet you then remove the masking tape, slowly and carefully, and dispose of. Then you apply a nice fat bead of CT1 all the way from top to bottom, at the outboard edge of the XPS where it meets the frame. Press the Habito into place, put the screws in the far end, and set the 4x2 in place and leave for 12hrs minimum to cure. Each of the side reveals can be done in the same sitting if you want, be left to cure, and then the head if that needs sorting (but would be a different situation with the lintel obvs). Take 2 of those and call me in the morning

How thick for what? Wall or lintel? The reference to 100mm is for each end of the concrete (pre-stressed) lintel to be sat over 100mm masonry the same thickness as the lintel. For this, you’d be using a 3” x 4” lintel https://www.diy.com/departments/expamet-concrete-lintel-l-1050mm-w-100mm/150790_BQ.prd

Need to see a section drawing, then it'll make sense I guess.

They've not blown cellulose over the Finks on the last two of their projects I worked on. All of the CAT6 network gear and TV runs, plus feeds for all the blinds etc went up there on the most recent, and we boarded it out so it could provide quite a bit of useful, additional storage.

100mm in concrete is fine.

Well worded aka "life". Good to hear the builders already on it though.

Cant really say from the pic, but if you’re getting movement then it was defo air locked. Happy days.

Looks like 1/2” BSP, but would need you to buy a fitting and prove it obvs. Then one of these can be put on the end with 21 turns of PTFE, if you’re feeling brave. You put a short (100-150mm) piece of copper in the 15mm entry and then use a push fit connector to go from copper to plastic, if you’re using push fit? Don’t put push fit into the compression nut or the 4 horsemen will descend upon you. Failing that, I’ll just disapprove.

No rush! Those days are long behind me

Bingo. We're getting somewhere. Did you hear the F&E tank ballcock allow some more water in to top up?

I’d switch your PM inbox off sharpish, if I were you lol! Congrats, I’ll be in touch myself pretty damn soon if you’re up for some new projects to support me on. Last lot didn’t make grade….now gone ‘adios’. Shoot me a message when you get 5 and we can have a chat or maybe meet up. One’s on your doorstep.

“These are not the droids you are looking for……” 🖖

Defo this. Use a battery multitool and have a hose running to manage dust. It’ll wash off the render if it’s not left to settle. Leave the section held captive by the render, and mastic the joint to recreate the weathertight seal. Be sure to multitool the full length of the underside of the bit you need to remove so you can lift it away from the render. Don't simply hope the render will be ok if you just lift the cill up and away. It needs to be disconnected by you just multitool’ing inti the render for maybe 5mm or so. Steady hands and lots of time and patience invested here will make this quick and simple. Rush it and you’ll be into another few cans of real ugly worms.

As the principal designer, and I assume the author of your b regs drawings, they are responsible for the insulation being fit for purpose and sufficient for a “pass”. If their spec is under then it should fall back on them?

Are you aware of our marketplace?

I try to explain the difference, to folk who approach me (both here by PM or in “real life”) for ‘a bit of advice’. I have to explain that me rambling on here has zero repercussion, because in reality nobody should listen to a word I have to say. But, if someone asks me specifically, to advise on their project, well that requires time, and time = £xxx At that point I become liable or responsible for not overpromising or under-delivering, so that’s now managed via my T&C’s (serves myself and the client very well if expectations are managed robustly, and then each party knows what’s been promised vs what’s getting delivered for what sum of money, payment plans agreed, and so on). It’s so much simpler when 2 adults can read the same document, perform a handover, and agree that’s all been done as expected and here’s your dosh. BH has a massive wealth of information available for anyone to read and use, with their own caution needing to be in check, and due diligence performed, eg to avoid misadventure. Reading a few bits on the internet is not robust enough to go spending your hard earned money on. It should be used to compile questions for your chosen contractor, or as a sounding board for your own informed decision making.

They could reduce the head in the current end of line property to 60a and give you the same 60a allowance. You’ll be surprised just how much you can run off that!

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