Nickfromwales

I don’t plaster where I’m going to be tiling, ever. Waste of money afaic, and tanking loves to stick to plasterboard, and so does tile adhesive.

I prefer my fish with chips 😋

Would have been a much worse score if that was open!? Plus the AB team look for 'major faux pas' before testing. An open chimney would have not passed grade, I am sure.

Lowest point gets a drian / gulley, and then ACO's drain down into those. Run the ACO's as far / long as you need to.

That's prob been there longer than I've been alive, and will likely outlive me. Take a measurement across the depth, and check in one years time.

Go get 'em, tiger!!!!!!!

? You mean a tanking membrane? Why bother, and just buy liquid tanking kit(s) and keep brushing it on in opposite directions until you are happy. Bombproof, and the joints get done with the strips or a roll that come with the kits: LINK

Can I just have some money for the heck of it?

Where was their rationale for the 2x potable (white) vessels needing changing?? Bloody nonsense. At (only) 5 years old they should be fine! Unusual to see two on the hot water, but I always add extra volume on all of my installs, simply as a good measure; you can't have too much expansion afaic. Does the UVC ever heat off the immersion, routinely, as that can seriously over-exert the expansion vessel(s), off solar PV divert etc maybe? If off the ASHP only then these should be living a very easy life, and last a fecking long time. Defo kick these lot to the kerb, and get a new plumber who actually gives a shit.

Yup. But they probably don’t check the oil in the car either, then moan when a £4k bill lands to fix it.

🤣

If it’s in an isolated space, or on another floor, then it is advantageous if it can run on longer, or fire up sooner, but I wonder then if you’d defo need a decent sized volumiser to allow that to run independently. Heating or cooling would need to be ‘on’ for the main heating system, for a fan coil to toggle in / out, so I guess it’s down to how the system is run and configured.

Yours was more eloquent.

What a prick. The whole point of the chuffing “service” is to inspect and top up the expansion, if so required!!!!!! Did he do the G3 inspection for the UVC? That’s the major importance here. I’d not let him back through the door ever again, as he’s gone the easy route and just wandered off with some fast bucks. When you find a replacement, fit one of these to the red expansion vessel. and if you want to make life easier downstream you can fit one to the UVC expansion (usually a white vessel a-la your red one) so the next service chap won’t wince and will be minutes vs hours checking both of these vessels accordingly, per annum.

The pipe shouldn’t be disconnected, in real life nobody removes these ‘temporary links’, as there’s no blank cap for the cold supply to be made safe with. Most fitters pull these blank caps off their rubber noose and throw them away, to save explaining what they’re for. Eg

Good riddance. He was a cock.

Give me the slab every damn day of the week.

IR point and see ones seem to give big differences based on the colour or effectiveness of the thing they’re pointed at. That’s largely why I’ve not bothered as largely they’re shite. A good FLIR camera attachment to a mobile phone seems a good solution, or just a cheap Chinese android phone with the facility built in. One of those ‘get what you pay for’ situations methinks.

Sorry, can be done before or after boarding, but I’d do it after boarding and all 1st fix, which iirc is what AB recommend. Doable either way in actuality, but you’re responsible for then preserving the ‘treated’ exposed surfaces until they’re covered.

Defo before skim. However, it can be done after if you’re closing the gate after the horse has buggered off.

Correct. ☑️. I see tapes peeling back and loosening their airtight grip, but in complete honesty I don’t see this happening with AB. I’ll be using / promoting AB on future (suitable) projects without a seconds hesitation. I’m seriously impressed. No affiliation btw, and not on commission wish I was though as I’m sure this will become more and more popular.

To clarify, I’d never assume a slab would be good enough to take to a threshold with zero tolerance allowed. I always assume that we need to build up at the openings (doorways and sliders etc) where you need to be level and just shy of flush for aesthetics.

Only if you use inexperienced (or shite) contractors. You’ll notice in the detail I shared that I’ve allowed for the floated concrete slab to be self levelled, and then feathered to allow a specific level at the threshold (Karndean LVT for this particular clients project) which gives room for ‘human / installer error’. If you’ve discounted a power floated slab, what’s the alternative?

You’ll need to get over this aversion, but directing the right funds to the right people, at an appropriate and controlled time. Look to go 1.5 storeys as to build a bungalow is just such a waste of the same footprint. It’s not much more cost to put rooms in a roof, 2 birds with 1 stone afaic, so look at costing out both options. But for planning I’d go for the 1.5 storey first and see if it gets passed, as the long term resale value for an extra bedroom with ensuite upstairs would be significant, and may be somewhere where you can recover part of the overall investment (in equity). Bungalows suck imo lol. Why use up a good piece of land to only utilise half the potentially habitable space??

Ditto. SIPS would be my last choice, but then I’d just go masonry and simplify.