Nickfromwales

Yup, just you’ll be routing out the back of the plasterboard to get pipe and fittings covered, particularly problematic if you’re using push fit plumbing instead of soldering copper pipes. If you can set it back another 10-15mm that would make plumbing much easier, and allow you to use push fit.

I’ve copied this from a stray thread, as it’s better off here @Garage build, so folk have the back story and you don’t have to explain it all over again Hi I’m considering using ……. Metal Roof Sheet (34/1000 Box Profile) Polyester Paint Coated 0.7mm Juniper Green - 2400mm They say they are “Independently tested: to current CE EN 14782 requirements” What European fire resistance compliance category A1 A2 BCDE would this type of metal sheeting comply with? I'm considering using this sheet metal material as wall and roof cladding when constructing a garage LBH 5.2x4.3x2.8m to the ridge line. Untreated rough sawn timber stud partition frame and roof timbers will all be coated in Thermoguard exterior fire retardant fluid. (Two coats) prior to application of metal cladding to meet the 30min requirement. all materials and design must comply with the latest building regs technical handbook non domestic (Scotland) Thank you steve

You’re asking a modern juke box to give random answers it finds from people giving random answers. Ffs. Leave it alone and remain as a human. Ai told me to pull you over this, so don’t shoot the messenger-robot who’s eyes just went from blue to red. 👀

Ultimate sacrifices for the tightness of air. 🫡👊👌🤝 Good lad.

Pmsl

(expletive deleted)ing hell. You’ve just use your annual quota of questions in one go. You can post again in 2026 ok.

He adds 30%……

I could always borrow some of your industrial strength “anti-itch” cream?

Strictly zero access during the treatment. One guy went in at the end wearing a respirator to open all the windows to do the purge.

What are the UFH pipes sat in? Screed or in aluminium plates, or an overlay system? Any clues? Defo down a notch on the pump, and go from there. With that long a time for it to heat up it sounds like possibly screed over concrete as that’s taking a bloody long time to get there! >6hrs would bother most, and feeling the heat within 4 should be the norm.

Yup. Ask to see the start result, and just watch how quickly the magic begins to happen.

Allen key may be the way, as some are held on by grub screws.

lol. Yes, I don’t think the Ming vases were out the day I was there They can do a finished house, but the list for prep is ‘a little longer’, but it can be done. This is great news for anyone doing a retrofit MVHR and who wants the best results possible. Just needs dust-sheets a plenty

Erm….gravity steps in methinks Only the points of exit, and any flat surface get the product in / on them.

It won’t be the plasterboard that gets sealed by AB, that’s not how it works. Dint think about this as a spray coating that covers all surfaces, because it very much isn’t / doesn’t. This is atomised and follows airflow, so is physically carried to any place that air is escaping. This means it will go into socket back boxes, travel through the holes and gaps around them, and go directly to the masonry where air is being forced out. The moment there’s no airflow, the product will stop going in that direction and look elsewhere. The least amount of exposed (treated) area that remains post-application, equals the lowest level of downstream ‘damage’ that can occur, thus preserving the best outcome. Leakage paths just get followed, and then the source of the leak(s) subsequently get plugged, wherever they are. As the PB will be lifted up off the floor, and will have gaps all around it, the product will just whip past the boards and go straight behind them to seek and destroy! Nope. This is not a spray application, so does not hit what you point it at. This is a fog created by the mist heads and it’s just floating / suspended in air waiting to be guided by that air flowing somewhere. The pics show how this system fogs the entire dwelling interior, and the BFO fan assists in disbursing this around, so it’s of zero relevance where the product gets introduced; but as you can see the tripods are up around shoulder height anyways. I say tripods (plural) as they install a good few of these in key areas to entirely flood the premises. I assume this is to get the wet (uncured) product to its final destination asap to maximise its effectiveness. Once the result was achieved and it was deemed “as good as it can get” the guys there mask up and go and open all the windows fully, and then switch the pumps off and blast the fan at full speed aka ‘purge’ as the fog just stays there. After the test was done the residual product was still hanging around in there in abundance, airborne, so needed to be forced out. Just wish I’d have thought of this tbh, as it’s damn impressive and so simple / effective. I bet a lot of dogshit developers use this to get out of the cack.

Is it a straight run? With 50mm fall I'd say it would work. There, I said it. I'll get a kicking here from most for saying that, but then they'd have to shut up and buy the drinks when it is demonstrated and proves to actually be reliable and functionable. The energy / velocity of the flushed water is quite significant, and when you add in the fact this drops vertically first, gaining further momentum, you'll see this will be shifting at a rate of knots when you flush the WC (or "bog" if you're from my neck of the woods). If it really matters to you then set up a WC in the room loose, run the pipe, see how it performs, decide if you're happy. Proof will always be in the pudding, regardless of what's on paper.

At least with a modular building it can be sold on later to recoup some lost costs, but a free or close to free garage for a campervan is a bit unrealistic to be honest. £600 pcm would rent you something probably close to what you want (so x that x the number of years and then rethink your expectations a bit?) My basic man-shed at the side of the house cost me around £3k to do DIY, 7.2m x 3.6m footprint with metal profile roof, 4x2 timber frame with 18mm OSB interior for racking and same floor (wish I'd gone ply on the floor!!!!). Bottom line is, it needs a sensible budget. I'd start looking for a used small commercial metal building and modify it to fit. An afternoon with a metal cutting circular saw / recip, and some mates around with free beer and food etc should suffice.

Before or after you show her the invoice for the window

You’re missing the size of the atomised product. Look at the pics, this stuff gets into cracks you can’t even see. It’ll shoot around the back of the boards, down its neck, up its skirt, into nooks and crannies you didn’t even know you had. It’s a crazy thing to see tbh, but take my word for it, it’ll get into everywhere. Also? Cracks in the plasterboard? Erm, plaster, 2 coats, and paint, several coats = zero cracks.

This bit of pipe needs to be longer. The water zooming around that bend will still be doing loop the loop, so will want to spray into the tundish vs fall straight into it.

Won’t matter one jot. It’ll be a pita to work out as they both just dribble out, not open full wallop.

Not if really as the results can only be better, the more area covered by dabs, and if the electrics and plumbing 1st fix is done then less trade interference after (risk of them undoing the goodness and then covering it over). AB do say to get all 1st fix in, including MVHR ductwork to outside, but obvs you need to plug up everything connected to the MVHR or the product will push through the ductwork, unit, filters, HEx, condensate and more = MVHR death. Depends who’s on site, who’s going to preserve everything as done, so basically you can decide this yourself. On the project I shared pics of, the PB was off, but the client and trades were well programmed with the ‘not damaging of the AT layers’.

@craig is the in-house window wizard, so hopefully he will drop in when you can post something for us to comment on.

Yea, same here, given the new information about rads slowly getting warm. Still stinks of poor circulation. @EinTopaz, has this ever run correctly, or is this something recent / new? Have you stripped and cleaned the Maga-clean? edit: the under-boiler valves are correct and fully open.

@Shan2010 is it an RCD, MCB, or RCBO that’s tripping? Show a pic of the offending item and post it up here if you’re not sure.