Nickfromwales

That can be made to work, but I’d need more info and to understand the way it’s been plumbed / pumped / operated etc to see if hydraulic separation needs to be considered in this conversion. Assuming it’s just the OEM pump in the ASHP atm, and flow and return just tee off to UFH and rads? Day job for a decent plumber, one who doesn’t spend longer talking about how it ‘can’t be done’ than the job would actually take to do. This is a low temp pump and mixer set, one I’ve been fitting for nearly a decade. 1” BSP connections to match your manifold. Link This isn’t a typical, much cheaper, TMV, but instead a thermo couple type actuator which responds by temp / hydraulic in a far smoother and more refined way. These don’t whine or chatter at their lowest settings like a regular TMV’s often do, so with this type of unit you’ll get very accurate, low temp control for the UFH in the slab. Needs a bit of “tight space plumbing” skills, and prob to pack the manifold off the wall very slightly, but defo can be done in the room available. Done these in much tighter spaces tbf!

I’m not in radio 4 territory yet sorry.

That would delete all the decorative beams?

Just pics and words unfortunately. Can you take a pic of the instruction manual and post it here? Just take the pic and save it to your photos. Then click add files below the text editor here and it’ll ask you to choose photo.

PIR lights will usually have a connector block with 4 terminals. 1) earth (usually just somewhere to park the earth that you have at the end of your cable, and not always needed if “double insulated”) 2) N neutral 3) L permanent live 4) SW L switched live Some will have the L disappear into the fitting and feed the sensor, and then the sensor sends the SW L output back to 4. The factory wiring then has the live to the lamp in there too. Some are set up so you don’t see the 4 terminals, as the factory working is contained within the unit, a-la most modern led floodlights, so you only get to give it L, N and E. Do you have a link to the exact fitting you bought?

You may need a differential bypass valve, across flow and return before the valve. Are you 100% sure that the flow and return are the correct way around, as the thump is often associated with the valve 'paddle' being slammed shut in the flow.

A switched live is only a switched live, if you keep flipping the switch. If you flip the switch on, and leave it on, it's then a permanent supply Live is live, comes from the same place, ends up in the same place.

Sounds nonsense. If this is a PIR light then you’d just turn the light switch on and leave the unit powered 24/7. Then you have L & N + E constant power. If you want to turn the switch off, for some reason, then seems an odd choice of light fitting! Switching it back on will provoke a start up time event, every time you do so, but then it’ll go off and into PIR mode. Just turn the light switch on and leave it on. I assume you know you shouldn’t be connecting L and SW L together? Nothing but the factory wiring should be in SW L.

What m2 of area do you have the ‘dip’?

The exact same one I fitted in Leicester. IIRC I used a threaded fitting from hep2o, and PTFE taped it onto the threads of the Frosti. I had to use that to lengthen the tap though. Are you going to need to have an angled fitting immediately on the end of the tap to connect it flush to the wall?

Aurora are very good imho.

I stayed in The Falmouth Hotel a good few years back, and the shower curtain over the bath, in the multi coloured suite, looked like Zoro had been using it for target practice. Stayed in a Greene King hotel (?) in Halstead, and as someone had run out of loo roll, and the shower curtain was right there……. Yup. Staff member apologised to my mate, and he said she took that one and swapped it into another occupied room, giving him their curtain…….saying they had no spares and no facilities on site to clean it. 💩🤢

There’s no issue of trust here?! He just fitted the spots he thought were correct at the time I guess? Just open the circular junction box and remove the offending article. Are these units in the pic fixed modules or can you replace the lamp?

My bad! I was thinking of another job. Too many plates spinning atm

Miles off here, sorry! The water in the UVC is fresh potable water, which is hydraulically separated from the heating system ‘brine’, so that can only push water out of taps etc. You can turn the system off, then close the red and blue flow and return valves on the UFH manifold, and then connect a hose to the end of the return rail and run to outside or to a drain. Then you’ll need another hose from an outside tap (or you can uncouple and use the filling loop) connected to the flow rail. You’ll then be using cold mains to blast the loop through. Shut the other working loops off. Leave the one problematic one fully open. Open the drain off and then turn the outside tap on and watch / listen to see if water and air then gets dumped out. Repeat as needed.

100mm? Thickening over ring and intermediate beams.

Modern, domestic AC is none of these. Nobody would ever sell one if they were For 2 current live projects, one MBC ph TF and one (TBC) Nudura ICF I’m specifying AC on the FF, with wall mounted units being suggested (for the first revision for discussion). Also for cost reductions and simplistic installation, integration, and maintenance etc. Cooling is part of each clients remit to me, so my job is then to find the best units, at the best price, with installation methodology that ensures maximum longevity and minimum nuisance to the occupants. Sizes will be considered (over) to get the units to be near zero impact (audibility etc). I recall staying in hotels pre / post Covid, one quite small room, and the AC on the wall doing its thing. An occasional waft (no noise or draughts) as the output was nearly fully modulated, and I slept like a baby in a perfect ambient, with the unit offering surprisingly little sound. It was wonderful, plain and simple. Very apparent that the room had AC, as the unit was gloss black lol (maybe not a good choice for an otherwise lightly decorated room) and it was less than 1m from the bed, but it was an asset for sure. My plan is to set the units as far away from the bed and as high up as I can get them, so the modulated output is of no nuisance whatsoever. The focus will be on cooling the room, not the occupant. One will service the other, indirectly, by design. In reality, us humans will tolerate a fan blowing directly onto us if it makes us cool, think desk or pedestal fans, so a near silent AC unit will simply not offend. This is more of a storm in a teacup than it would actually be in real life.

That’s cold, and it would drive me crazy. At 19° I’m looking at my room stat and asking WTF. Absolutely! This is why, for every new client, I start with a blank bit of paper. I don’t create ‘other people’s homes’, I create homes for the intended occupants and take my lead from them. Heating on the FF is just a thimble-full, when required, but cooling is a very different issue altogether. At 21.5° I know my room is too hot, at 22° I want to kill. Successfully managing this hysteresis and matching the occupants preferred ambient needs control, and the sun has a huge effect on the sums. Solar reflective glazing is a huge asset here, but then folk will quickly moan about needing heating to offset the lost solar gain. The cost and impact of active cooling (by automation or human manipulation) outweighs this many times over.

Post a pic of the manifold, showing above / below / immediately surrounding space. Doesn’t have to be directly connected, but needs to be close ish.

Thanks for the thread though, as this is a great bit of balance to what seemed a very one-sided subject . My rethinking around this, I’ve reassessed heating and cooling quite intensively over the last 6 months, is that AC (for very gentle heat or effective cooling) on the first floor makes more and more sense every time I look at it. Even @Jeremy Harris ended up retrofitting AC to get his home tolerable.

Amen. A handful of folk on here may say they’re ok without FF heating, but a heck of a lot of folk wouldn’t be so fast to agree, now yourself added to that number. @Post and beam, you can easily add a mixing set to the UFH manifold, and then turn the flow temp up to say 45° to see if that perks the rads up a little. The caveat is that they’ll then possibly need to have TRV’s but that’ll be down to trial and error. You can jump the flow temp up in 2° increments until content. The Ivar blender starts at 20°C and goes to 60°C, and is very accurate.

IMHO, those beams and joists look plenty good enough. I worked in a 200yr old cottage in Gloucestershire, and when re plumbing I quickly lifted a floorboard to look into the void below, searching for flow and return. I lifted the board, and the client who was sat in the kitchen downstairs, looked up at me and said “hello”. There was no void “D’oh!”.

The best thing for sharing the loads out is to stick with real wood floorboards with tongue and groove joints, ideally full boards or very long lengths. Nice fat screws, and keep the joints towards the first and last 1/3 of each row. You can get these reclaimed if you look at the rec’m yards online.

I may chuck it on the Screwfix forum and tell them I’ve fitted this, but the clients won’t pay. lol. I bet 80% of them would bite

I use Paul at underfloor heating trade direct. Used them for over a decade without issue. Give them a call and ask for a price 01925 571999 As above, it’s all pretty much the same stuff with different folks writing / branding on it. @Great_scot_selfbuild I’d lose the fixation of getting so many things from one source, most offerings come in quite underwhelming imho, as the more you add the more diluted the focus and attention to each element there seems to be. The UFH can be laid simply, by yourself if you choose, over a long weekend. Or, get the plumber who’s going to do the rest of the plumbing and engage earlier with them and they can support. On a recent ‘turnkey’ install by certain well known heat pump fitting entity there were a lot of faux pas, client totally unaware, smiling and happy, and a few schoolboy errors when they laid the UFH was the trigger for me to ‘observe a little more closely’ when the HP and UVC was going in. Started laying all the small loops first, so when they got to the large kitchen diner loops they ran short to get one leg back to the manifold, which needed lifting and discarding and replacing with another visit. Caused a delay, with screeders booked in at that point. I was supporting with all ‘other plumbing’ and the electrical arrangement, inc ASHP wiring, so provided a 50mm waste pipe where D2 would connect. The chap just poked a piece of 22mm copper into the 50mm pipe and carried on with the rest of the install. I pointed out that it was connected to the foul sewers so needed to have a waterless trap installed to prevent the stink coming back into the room. He asked if poking rockwool down it would do the same job……? Split this up, and manage each element more effectively is my 2 cents. Panasonic ASHP £3k with controls, cools out of the box and quieter than a mouse sneezing, and a Telford UVC, folk here get good prices from Trevor @ Cylinders2go. Ivar pump / low temp mixer and manifold, if UFH GF + FF, or just a manifold if GF UFH only. Look at the umbrella scheme for the grant, or just keep the costs low so you don’t need to bother jumping through those hoops, with the usually then attracted uplifted costs. Pipe is pretty much pipe. Dont overthink it!