Nickfromwales

You have a bit of luck, as the base of each handle has those larger 'feet', so I would just drill incrementally up in size until you get to where you need to be. If it's up/down, then maybe use the 5mm bit to just elongate to make a slot, vs making bigger holes, plus you may need to fit washers to the screws so they don't pull into the (real wood) of the door and then move back to where you don't want them to be from the tightening action (rotational movement of the pan head screws). Very slow and very steady wins the race, so don't do this in anger.

UVC doesn't give higher flow rates at the 50o+ temps? Combi's can't usually be compared. 3 showers is very good, at what flow rates?

Mostly pics tbh

You’re still always constrained by the physical max flow rate of water, whatever temp, through a combi.

My books are all still wrapped in the cellophane as I didn’t bother going for my NAPIT in the end; Covid put that on ice, and a change in career path (coming away from the coal face) put it to sleep. Maybe I should give them a read lol.

Yup. Nails are soft, screws are hard, and those bits (and the Erwin ones, as long as you buy the correct ones)) are defo rated to go through nails; I have these and they plough through nails with relative ease. Screws is a very different thing as there’s nothing other than diamond that eats those. The Starret bits do go through, but after a few holes / screws you’ll defo see the teeth beginning to fail. I treat these as a consumable and just but multiples of the go-to sizes and bin when they start to struggle. Same with flat wood bits, just buy cheap ones off amazon, boxes of multiples of 12/16/20/25/28/32mm and treat as disposable. If the know there’s a screw, try to remove it, if you’ve gone through nails, whack a screw in after to reinforce what you’ve removed. Another joyous day of house-bashing. These are the best ones imo, if you’ve a whole house to 1st fix for plumbing and electrics. LINK

Anyone experienced and competent, you meant to say

Yup.

SELV covers up to 50v iirc.

£30k is a lot of dosh for mediocre work and then having the house damaged too is just shocking.

Close off one UFH loop at a time (one per 24hrs) and then reopen and close the next one along, and keep going until you’ve proven the leak doesn’t stop when a particular loop is isolated (remember you MUST close off flow and return tightly or the test won’t work, so righty-tighty for flow gauge and the blank caps on the lower). Best to start there, but as above this needs finding asap as that’s a good few litres of water at least being pumped into the fabric of your new home. Fingers crossed that it’s finding its way to ground somehow, waters good at finding a way out, if one exists.

Usually to get higher DHW flow rates, or possibly somewhere to bin off some excess solar PV.

What’s the timelines? Pool went in before the ‘side’ extension or after? Do you know the size of the excavation that occurred for the pool, and ground conditions? Is the new extension to be 1 or 2-storey? You may be able to do a piled (screw vs percussion) foundation to completely remove the need to excavate, other than for a foul pipe if there’s need for drainage. You’ll need geotechnical survey doing by the foundation contractor or independent to see if that’s an option, plus you’ll need to know what services lay beneath, historical records for mains sewers / gas / water and so on. I’d be asking a ‘pool expert’ if you’re better off emptying the pool during these works, or half emptying it, or leaving it full etc. That will likely be a good SE, one who’s done pools before. I have a very good SE I can share details of who’s very well versed in ICF / pools / basements, PM me if you get stuck. For a covering, do a good job as you don’t want any damage to the pool whatsoever. 4x2 timbers across the width and 18mm OSB sheets to cover the pool. Make some uprights at each corner and midpoints as necessary with hazard tape strung between them to act as a guard rail, and a BFO sign saying not to walk on it and swimming pool below etc.

Yup. Just off for 30 seconds and back on should do it.

Ideal Xmas gift people!!! 1.5 pages of illiterate joy Order now to avoid disappointment. Albeit inevitable.

The inner leaf always does the heavy lifting. Outer is just for a rain screen.

Erm… wouldn’t this still be a block inner-block outer cavity wall to sit atop the cavity of brickwork? If so, the joists would be toothed into the inner leaf? The ends of the posis would be designed to have timber stock set into the ends of them, to sit on masonry robustly, and the top chord would just be ordered long, to fly over, and be cut as desired.

Crack on.

Doesn’t sound terrible tbh, but I’m just not a fan of SIP’s vs a proper timber frame blown full of cellulose. Have you read the small print twenty times? Usually you’ll be responsible for a lot of stuff and you need that costed out before you take one more step forward, so you have a high level project cost. I was going to ask about the promised AT score, but I’m assuming 1.0ach or close to?

Welcome aboard. Doing one such project down your way soon, I’ll drop you a copy of my latest hardback… ”Nicks pearls of wisdom”. A bargain at £399.99. 👌🤝

Whoa!!!!!! We could be sued for defamation if you abuse a member in such a derogatory way, and I think you should……… ………oh, hang on. Did you say @Pocster? Sorry, yes, he’s fair game. Fill your boots My apologies. 😂

Tell him to get (expletive deleted)ed.

Ok 👍. I’d look at a spares kit ordered in now, o-rings / seals mostly, and possibly a spare thermostatic cartridge depending on £££. Should be 20yrs trouble-free motoring then regardless of what happens with the company / support downstream.

Looks like that would just get you where you can use push fit. Remember that you need to buy a decent quality valve to bury in the wall as spares may be an issue later down the line. If a client is undecided I just use these https://ebay.us/m/slX6ED But check prices of the face plate that you then need to go with it. For eg Link eBay / Gumtree / farcebook marketplace are your friends here. Link

You could clad the whole exterior of the untreated timber frame with a fireproof cement board. Then just cover it over with the cheapest cladding you can obtain. Have you explored this option at all? The cement board would add racking strength so may allow you to go for less materials in the TF construction, as if this is a taller than normal building then you’ll really need to rack the walls if going TF. Cement board would kill two birds with one stone there, but consider the weight when “designing” the roof.