Nickfromwales

If this is your first baptism-of-fire tiling job and you have turned out something that looks like that ( regardless of how much filing and dremel work you did ) then you should be standing 10 feet tall my strange avatar’d friend. ?? Have a beer on me, at your expense

The metal box has been utilised as a transition so the SWA can be made off to a bonded metal structure. A bit OTT but hey-ho. The earth lead does not service something else, it’s the critical earth bond strapper that bonds the SWA sheath and is functional.

Depends on too many things to give a useful answer tbh. Can you upload a plan with topology and measurements?

Deffo reuse for site power. Extension leads have dreadful power ratings and things like chop saws suffer badly. Always good to have a high power supply. Yip, just tape them off and cable tie them so they can’t go touching anything.

Good news, at least they've used the correct flue bends, and they've tech screwed them where required. One I saw at an eBuild members house was utterly horrific. The wrong bends used ( male and female push fit on vertical flue = jail, and when he said his son played up in the attic with his train set I offered to take a look as the combi was up there too. Client was not impressed when i put one finger under the flue terminal and lifted it easily off the top of the combi. And his installer was Vaillant accredited and a training instructor FFS. We rectified with a complete new flue, and the "training instructor" paid my bill ( very quietly and apologetically too ).

+1 to having; Existing socket > unswitched double pole fused isolation unit ( 13a DP fused spur ) with a 3 amp fuse replacing the factory fitted 13a one. Use 2.5mm2 Twin and Earth cable 6242Y for this. I'd have that where it was out of sight as they're a bit ugly tbh. Then I'd go from the low level spur ( next to socket ideally ) to a normal light switch ( then you can pick and choose to get one to match existing accessories ). Use 1.0mm2 T&E for that. Then from the switch to the lights in 3-core 1.0mm2 flexible cable or 1.0mm2 T&E, whichever easier. It is probably easier to run 2 bits of cable, eg one from the light switch to each of the lights so you only have to make one cable off in each light, rather that daisy chain through the first and then on to the second light . If we don't hear from you again, we'll assume it didn't go well and deny any knowledge of your existence

Errrr, yes..... Not very often do you open them when they’re hot

And for the generator to have a wet cooling system, so that it could be connected to a 2-3000L buffer tank to store ‘waste’ heat from the generator and use it for DHW uplift / space heating direct feed for preheat etc. Off grid means waste nothing.

Don’t forget silicone grease on the new seals and a smear into the valleys of the threads of the lid so it screws on / off easily, eg with little torque.

Only if you have an attic or space at least one storey above it to give you some kind of hot water flow. Bit stuffed in a single storey dwelling or where there are vaulted ceilings. UVC is self-contained so with an UVC these is no need for an install that unnecessarily spans 2 or 3 storeys of the house. More coils = more ?

Prob is, the actual PVC skirting profiles sometimes go yellow with time. Synthetic is better, but white is not great. Would a wood lookilikey synthetic suit?

No need for shielded cable. Just try not to run it parallel to mains cables for any log distances ( 10m or more ).

When is your turn to be the bitch?

Most I’ve ever charged is £70m2. That price above is ridiculous, tell them to jog on.

Mikita 18v here, and I barter the shit out of it. Just decide if your routinely cutting and chopping out, or sanding / detailing. If the latter, buy the Fein, it’s nice for duration use, very balanced and comfortable eg less user fatigue. Amen.

B&Q sell them if you just want a small hatch, but prob better with something cob-boy can get his anvil sized head up and into.

Mark those occasions on the calendar and get a reality check. The only thing you need to know is where the CU is and which circuit to switch off eg “kitchen ring” if the ? hits the fan ?

Nope. 25% max PV productivity in winter, so PV > heating = no chance whatsoever. That tank will sit dormant all year. PV dump > hot water is the only sensible option and just face facts that you’ll have to purchase some energy in winter. Large buffer will only be any good really if you have Solar Thermal or multiple ( reliable ) fuel inputs. You’d only want an isolations on the flows and to keep the returns linked ( grouped ) so the system is one unified body of water always sharing one filling loop / expansion vessel / pressure gauge etc for simplicity. That can be done with a 3-port diverter valve ( NOT a mid-position valve ) and a simple light switch to change between oil > ASHP. At that point I’d buy the cheapest modulating ASHP I could find and see if you can get 10+ years out of it.

+1 on getting a hybrid, and subsequently saving a LOT of complex integration and balancing......... Plus, the existing oil boiler will sell relatively easily.

Thermal store is only really advisable if there will ( eventually ) be PV? Not great to keep a very high temp device hot all year round just to do the dishes. The bigger delta is going to be an issue, exaggerating the standing losses, and more of a concern without the intervention of PV divert. UVC for me here ( so the target temp can be reduced as much as poss ) plus a small ‘heating buffer’ ( eg seasonal heat loss minimised ) would suit boyo better as oil prices ain’t going to go down long term.

Very good units, PH certified, and nice and quiet in operation. Easy to maintain and now with smart home assistant connectivity and remote diagnostics too. ?? CVC Direct have been outstanding for support and after sales service so I don’t go anywhere else now ( after being burnt by ESaveP ? ). If they fell into a bucket of tits they’d come out sucking their thumbs..... I fitted a cheap unit from ESaveP for a previous individual and the build quality vs cost saving was not an economical choice. You’ll be fine with Brink, and they are now my weapon of choice ( going forward from earlier issues with said penny-pinching ).

Nope!! The saving of load shifting via batteries is NOT an economical choice at all. The difference in cost of electricity vs what you’ll spend on a decent sized ( 9.6kw ) battery system, and if A/C retrofit then add 15% losses for conversions to / from D/C > A/C make it worse again. Then factor in having the drive the arse off the system JUST to make it sensible to own, plus some systems have a limited throughput so you’ll wipe the warranty out early ( Powerwall for one ) and then the fact that the batteries will be out of warranty in 10 years or less and then deal at 13 years........... List goes on. Also you can’t empty or charge the battery quickly, so imagine having a soprano singer with huge lungs to store loads of oooomph for belting a tube out, but then only a tiny drinking straw for a windpipe, and you get an idea. EG; a 6kw hob would still see you pull from the grid if connected to the same sized, fully charged battery system. Too many probs unless you spend 5 figures on a multi BMS / multi battery trio of parallel stacks. Then you’ll need the batteries to last 30 years to get your money back as you’ll be into the big name German stuff then, with matching big budget. ?

It was called the Feed In Tariff ? You could have thrown him a bone ?

If that arrangement is fitted to the manufacturers recommended pump and blending set then it shouldn't matter, as the supplied complete kit will be designed fit for purpose. FYI those manifold rails simply unclip from the centre clamps, and you can swap them over in minutes. Reverse operation will be full of faults, including flow gauge paddles pulled into the closed position, actuators hammering themselves shut, and more. Get it sorted !!

Sopping wet with a mix of ( 25% ) flexible tile primer and ( 75% ) water to ‘size’ the new screed. Then a 50/50 mix used on a sponge to re-dampen the screed literally done as the flexible tile adhesive for the Ditra goes down. That’ll be bombproof. You should not lay tile adhesive onto a biscuit dry floor. The Ditra will indeed prevent the tiles from being affected, and should give up to 10mm decoupling ( @nod ? ).