Nickfromwales

Crackers?

Good point. You need to specify "non slip" or you may end up with a decorative tray not a functional one.

Were you very time-constrained? I've had textured trays in as little as 5-7 working days.

What do you have on the floors? Tiles? My bet is @Vijay will go for a good quality LVT for non-slip and ease of maintenance. 1000mm gets a lot of splash from the rainfall heads, done enough to know that if you 'throw some shapes' in the shower then it's going to be worse again. FYI I've done lots where the client has asked for a 1000mm screen, with the caveat that they are made aware by me, up front, of what to expect.... plus I would then insist on tiles and tanking throughout for longevity.

Errrrr, don't use a solvent I never have in over a 1/4 century of doing high end bathrooms and wet rooms. Wet clean sponge to remove dry grout residue, then a cotton towel to scrub it dry. Leave to air dry thoroughly and then seal away. If you fear any other contamination, the CT1 MultiSolve is a good product to prepare areas for siliconing, but do you really need this extra process?

Then you have to tank the floors as well as the walls. 1000mm of glass doesn't cut it for an open enclosure IMO, 1200-1400mm minimum. Bit heavy on the wallet, but this is nice...Link

Just tell SWMBO that you noticed her sister seems to have lost weight recently......

That shower is knackered. Do not repair and reinstate it !!! Water will get into the top and when it does it'll have a nice 40amp supply with which to fry you......... Seriously? I'd send that pic to Triton UK sales, and on their Twitter feed too, and ask what they suggest you do with the failed unit, giving how dangerous this is, and what could have come from it. Do NOT think about salvaging this unit, please. It's Donald Ducked.

aka F&E ( feed and expansion ) tank.

Raised WC's are commonplace. You can get some nice ones which are fully back-to-wall, which hides the waste / plumbing connections and makes cleaning a doddle. Example. No need to get complicated with frames / wall hung shenanigans Super low profile tray can be bought as low as 25mm, and a nice slider with a low / no threshold will compliment that 1600mm gap perfectly. Example

Looks a great plan, what are you waiting for lol?

Assume the soil stack is external so no issue moving the WC?

Those unions will wind out and go back in just fine. Use a PTFE tape like this to sort those deep thread valleys as PTFE tape will struggle. Bit of boss white on the internal thread ( not too much ) and don't over-tighten first time around. Pinch up later if they weep, but with just F&E there's not much more than 1 bar there I'm guessing. +1 on using the filter to dose via. Don't use the F&E as it's the most elongated method of dosing there is. If you're worried about that, drain the towel rad when the systems down and fill that with the cleaner. Is that connected to the single pipe atm? I forget lol it's been a bit of a journey

Re sizing the LLH, the thread says “temporary UFH buffer” . Make your mind up lol. ? Use that “for now”............and then go to a TS later. FYI 25kW will be ample as all you have to imagine is a 25kW boiler going flat out ( which you have already ) heating via high temp rads. You’ll be on lower temps at that stage but kW requirement will be equal to or less as you upgrade the fabric in / under each room ( progressively lol ). Can’t you get on this GHG stuff?

Yup. If the other one turns up, I'll punt it out into one of my installs for you. ?

Let us know at 04:00

The worse the EPC the more dollars you get. Farkin bonkers. The MCS installer will have to make recommendations for upgrading anything utterly ? and that having been done will be part of the MCS / RHI criteria. Does the OP know of any such requirements so as to be able to factor in the costs to do so? @Steve_ ?

?. I'll drop in mid December for a brew and to see how far you've got lol. ?

Clean it, flush it, fit a mag filter and stop worrying. I've seen these with Castrol GTX, flowing black, and they still work annoyingly well. Do the CH MOT and see what the water quality is like after a couple of weeks of running.

There's more than just the cost of the ASHP in such a quote. FWIW, I don't think that's overly expensive ( but others have DIY'd and may say differently ). You need the MCS to get RHI, so if getting a grant and RHI then what will you ACTUALLY have to part with?

Hope your back is in good condition, as that's a lot of mixing, hand-balling and levelling. Pics too please!! Oh, and make sure the slab is soaking wet with the primer / water mix before laying. I use a janitors mop and just keep hitting it until it appears saturated.

Yup. Lay off the pop before attempting to cut it. CT1 will do you proud if things go a bit astray.

Yes, a double dose of Sentinel will do a bit, but wont remove 35 years of corrosion. Deffo need a magnetic filter after poking the hornets nest though, as you don't want that ? getting into the UFH loops.

+1. The low temp passive raft won't see any adverse temps or swings so pointless going to the expense of flexible adhesive. It would cost a fortune by comparison. Errrrrrr......you have 40mm missing, so labour and cost is already a known in order to make that up somehow. SBR the slab and get it soaking wet prior to dropping a 10mm concrete slurry down, around 30mm thick ( so as to allow you to not have to employ laser precision when doing so ) and then make the difference up with the regular tile adhesive. TBH I would employ a screeder to get this to 40mm dead for you as this is going to be a labour intensive PITA to DIY over the whole area. Get the mix delivered and a guy to drop it for you, and then 10mm + finish product will be a breeze. 10mm is a very heavy bed though tbh, so if you get someone to drop this for you you could even get as close as 35mm and make the laying of the flag's less of a ball-ache. But then......a look-see on their website says; Larsen Professional Flexible Rapid Set+ Adhesive We recommend using Larsen Professional Flexible Rapid Set+ Adhesive with our flagstones. Professional Flexible Rapid Set+ is a specially formulated, fully flexible, S1 rated, fast setting, cement based adhesive. It is suitable for beds of 3-20mm, interior, exterior and wall applications. Professional Flexible Rapid Set+ is suitable for fixing most types of tiles and is recommended for fixing glass mosaic, porcelain, natural stone and large format tiles. It is recommended for use on more demanding substrates including heated screeds, over-boarded timber and swimming pools. Deformable Grout after 3 hours BS EN 12004 Type C2FS1 Grey and White Downloads Larsen Rapid Set Adhesive Datasheet So that's out of the window then. Flexible is the way forward from these chaps information?