Nickfromwales

The second DPM, is it a slip membrane that we're actually talking about here? That would be employed if you are having a liquid screed vs a dry sand & cement based screed. If you are having a dry screed, some screeders will have a flap about the screed reacting with the foil layer of the PIR. You can mitigate against this by not having a foil backed product. Details please?

Diamond are great value for money, but Impey are the better trays. Impey systems require use of their own tanking membrane ( it tanks AND decouples ) so expect to part with more cash if you choose those. Wedi do a 40mm system but it needs a lot of supporting from underneath. I can’t recall them doing a 22/25mm system but haven’t looked at Wedi for some time now.

You need to find out IF there are issues as pointless discussing if the work is sound. Once you identify anything, and know the severity ( immediately unsafe work for eg which is about as bad as it could get ) then you can look at their governing body acting upon that information and possibly striking them off. If you paid cash, and don’t have an invoice, all that goes out of the window. If you have an invoice you need to contact that person and give them one last opportunity to rectify and provide the certification with immediate effect.

The low volume in the LLH isn’t that relevant. Flow to the manifold pump will be there in abundance as the flow will just ignore ( shoot straight through ) the LLH when it wants ‘full wallop’ and then flow will just simply recirculate ‘through / around’ it when needing nowt / next-to-nowt. The CH flow and return will prob be best off running through the LLH instead of being T’d off the single pipe tbh so the premium heated water has to flow through to continue its onward journey. All we need here is hydraulic separation. Thinking SP flow into top of LLH, then onwards flow ( aka return ) from lower connection ( same side ), and then flow to manifold pump from top connection other side, manifold return below that.

All lies

Just crack the valve shut at then open it to be set at 40% open. Test the system and move in 5% increments until happy. Simples. Flow dynamics are completely academic as the system will always see different flow rates to the various heating at various times. Put the calculator down, and go for Neanderthal maths Open it 100%, and count the turns to shut it. From that you can work out how to ascertain open %.

Pop some floorboards maybe and hope for the best?

The machine has an overflow which you are supposed to leave open. Can you extend the hoses? I've never used one indoors......

The PFM should have a cold mains water connection point. So, theoretically, you can just fill the PFM tank and keep cycling the pump on and off, and it will eventually fill the whole system up from there. Remember the PFM is gravity-esq so the cap will need to be kept on and the head of pressure kept flowing to stop the tankl from emptying out from its overflow connection. It's a merry dance for sure. Oh, I hope you have long hoses as you cannot even DREAM of having the PFM indoors

100%. All sealed systems will eventually lose this head of pressure so topping up is a part of the end users basic maintenance regime. FYI, that pressure is not just the pressure in the low loss header. It is one huge unified body of water so that gauge value is representative of the entire system pressure. When there is zero at ground level, you’ll have a deficit on any levels above. The risk there is, that air will be sucked in through the air vents you mention ( they operate in both direction unfortunately ) and the the UFH manifolds will start to take in air and send it around the loops. Due to the minuscule flow rates in each UFH loop, getting that air out usually requires a purge with cold mains pressure to ‘blast’ all the air out and replace with all water. Check for acceptable heat output throughout the floor serviced by the upper manifold to check this has not happened and that you caught it in time. Air locked loops will run cold as there will be no flow on that loop if so.

Yup. That’ll cover everything ?. Good luck.?

If you’re going to open the single pipe at the pump and connect the PFM there, and both / all ZV’s are open ( with gate to HWC closed at first ) then it should be fine without the gate. The gate was just to allow you to take the PFM potential down from 100%.

???. If you did that, I’d have bought the drinks.

It’s what we do.....

The celebration will be short lived. You have a LOT of thirsty people to get sorted. Best call work and tell them you’ll be late.......??

Relax, take a walk around the landing ( 3-5 hours ) and check again....

@Gus Potter shows up and bingo. Bloody wizard, I shit you not. ?‍♂️

Can I got to sleep now?

6000 people need their beer. You’re not going ANYWHERE. ?????????????

Turn the boiler back down, and watch the problem “magically” disappear. My 1 hour call it fee is one pint for each member. You may want to speak to the bank first thing

Drinks are on you.

Ahhhhh. IF, sir, you have turned out to be the worst system owner of 2020, and go around twiddling knobs, then you have just fallen on your own sword. STOP twiddling as you’ve made it unsafe.

?

The black thing that goes south into the chrome set ( directly above the pump ) with the black wire is what interfering to. That’s a 230v thermostatic ‘interrupter’ put in to protect the occupants against failure of the TMV.

It’s a safety feature to stop the floor getting too hot. Bet the pump is A OK.