Nickfromwales

Had one once, blamed the chef.......

FIGHT!!!

Keep asking them Some on here are a little less patient than others that's all........hoo-man nature etc etc. Panic yea not Barks are a lot worse than the bites.

Ok, then maybe an all in one Link if the outlet of the chrome trap will still be too high? This saves a lot of space in the cabinet too. FYI you can just cut a few turns off the one you linked, as long as you cut straight an flat. Done that plenty of times.

Not sure exactly what the solution is here, but would something like this help?

It's going to be much easier to accept that the bathroom UFH will ONLY run after the heating timeclock / room stat are on, as to run the bathroom UFH independently is going to be a huge waste of heat and over-complicated. No shit, Sherlock You been at the home-brew again? If the water / boiler are cold then the heating is off. No call for heat = nothing running, eg UFH pump not circulating It would only heat up IF you run the D/S heating, ( unless you revert to your above choice and go for a big buffer fed off its own zone valve ), but you'd still have a huge amount of accumulative / associated heat to shed from the boiler etc firing up and heating up the cylinder you have, so think twice about heating up a 115L tank just to heat a few litres of UFH loops. It is just a tube with 4 unions, so even simpler than Forrest Gump, Jenny. You'd connect the existing single pipe heating system 22mm feed to flow straight though it via 2 unions, and then connect your UFH flow and return to the other 2. A simple pocket stat in the LLH tells the UFH pump that the LLH is warm and then it can circulate warm water to the bathroom so no cold input ever. ( deep breath )......... when you looking at doing it as I'm pretty sure I still have that manifold plus actuators you can have for zilch.

Any need to keep the UFH and CH hydraulically separated? Do you have a mag filter and clean inhibited water in the system atm? Should have with the number of times you’ve dropped it. Will there be any instance when the bathroom UFH will need to run WITHOUT ANY other CH running? If not, that reduces the buffer size hugely as the rest of the system will form part of the buffers duty. Something like this will suffice if so. Roughly twice the size of a shoebox.

And repeat business when it conks out early from improper ( unnecessary ) use and needs parts / replacing . There is absolutely zero chance of an ASHP responding in time with the infrequent / short lived pockets of excess during a sunny / cloudy interval day. Also you can use the PV diversion controller as your duress boost too, giving you the recharge of the ASHP plus the electric input if / when you have very high demand ( house full of guests etc ).

It appears not. I may make a call to see why and if it can be done with a little ‘engineering’.

Too much flow to a particular loop means another is possibly getting starved, as the former will be taking the lions share of the pump potential. Start the system from cold and balance only then, with all actuators open, and never any other way. This crude approach of balancing won’t solve the problem I’m afraid, as there are varying floor covering with differing characteristics of getting heat from the pipe to the room. Auto-balancing in real time will be the best you can hope for. Salus heads are the only way you can achieve this real time response.

Pozi joists make 1st fix much easier than I-beams, but they’re not too much of a ball-ache ( if you own sharp hole saws and live drilling ). Can’t really think of a reason to go to I-beams vs posi’s TBH.

Yup. Then you can just have one external pipe that accepts anything and everything waste wise. You’d still need a rainwater down pipe though. You’re connected traps ( bath and basins ) turning into ? emitting crop sprayers every time the SF pumped out. Employ a plumber to tell you ?

Yes, as that needs to discharge into a trapped gulley, eg so stench doesn’t emit from ground level. The black / foul connection needs to be unhindered flow to the sewer and any rising stench needs to be dealt with by the ( new ) foul stack getting to the upper floor to collect the new WC but then continuing upward to soffit height and then being open to atmosphere to 1) vent the sewer gasses, and 2) allow an influx of air to alleviate the vacuum deficit created in the pipe by flushing the upper WC. That air admittance stops any connected traps ( including the water level in the WC itself ) from being ‘sucked’ dry by said vacuum. Easy this plumbing lark, ain’t it

Had it been taking foul ( black ) water eg ??? If it’s only been taking kitchen sinks / other bathroom wastes then that’s ( grey ) aka non foul discharge. Big, lumpy, drain blocking difference there

That will 100% need proper extraction.

Oh, and did I forget to mention DON’T FIT A SANIFLO. They’re ?

A number of faux pas here chaps. 1, you can’t discharge yesterday’s vegetable madras into a gully pot as it will have a trap. 2, you cannot connect to the existing waste pipe work as they’re all gravity and the SF discharge at ~0.7 bar. 3, Also, look at the Saniflow installation instructions. Page 5 and you’ll see that when you pipe down independently to the ground level ( after altering the groundwork’s to accept the foul discharge directly ) you will need to have a vertical riding pipe also with a suitable air admittance valve to stop the chuffing thing syphoning out ( ever heard the noise a kid makes in McDonalds when they get to the end of the milkshake )....,. And how did you arrive at the 4-figure sum fir the stack? Did you get a quote or is the old ‘assumption’ being made? That’s a 4-figure job, including adding the rising soil pipe and alterations to the groundwork’s so the rainwater can still have a trapped fully, but £1500-1800 max.

Shouldn’t matter at all as the manifold has its own pump and it’s the loops this pump services that were discussing the balancing of.

The wooden floors should really have been engineered timber and bonded down, as opposed to underlay and loose fit If I mix disciplines then I either put twice as much pipe ( or as close to as possible ) in the adverse areas and standard where there are tiles / bonded floors. In extend cases I fit two manifolds so you can choose the correct flow temp fit each instance. With the mix you have you’ll need the elevated flow temp but that’ll be a bit too hot for the tiled areas.

You need to know if the ones you have operate at the same voltage as the Salus. Wunda tech support are pretty helpful. If you have the MI’s for the system you have them it’ll tell you there if the actuators are low voltage or 230v. The Salus are 230v IIRC.

If you get no luck with balancing what you have, you could change to Salus auto-balancing actuators. Link These recognise when warm water returns to the manifold, from each loop, and arrests the flow allowing the others to get more pump potential. So if you have a small loop immediately adjacent to the manifold, that will act like an unwanted bypass ( until the stat in that rooms sees the uplift and signals that’s been satisfied / closes the actuator ), but that’s already going to be too long a wait for the problematic zones to improve significantly. Balancing is great if all zones are open simultaneously. If not that goes out the window as the flow dynamics will change with the differing combination of zones open at any one particular time. Salus = fit and forget.

Why would you want a concrete core to absorb heat from the house, and then have to try to stop it then conveying that to atmosphere by piling more insulation externally? Keep the heated element in the house and wrap it with insulation Adding the concrete core is a downside IMO which creates a path for the heat to be exchanged. You can mitigate with said extra insulation, but even though the U value is good on paper the decrement delay differs from blown cellulose, which is where my money would be. TF feels as solid as most traditional builds, plus you don’t need to large coat before installing the floors to get you airtight. Lots of gotchas with ICF. As for the opinion on Dirisol, I just speak as I find. Velox and Isotex both have bigger blocks and very excellent uniformity, so less junctions to deal with and less making good before internal finishes get applied. TF still remains the easiest for getting very close to airtight. A couple have seen 0.25 and 0.26 ACH which is exceptionally good.

If doing wastes from scratch and not using g the supplied generic stuff I always put a washing machine upstand for the appliances so you don’t get the factory / obligatory gurgle which comes with putting the appliance on the inbuilt appliance waste connector ( as that is before the trap so the noise comes up though the waste / plug hole ? and into the room ).

This is what I do. 50mm waste rising vertically from 110mm fW directly underneath, with 110x50mm bung. 50mm T with an access cap on the top to rod the lot, and then the side of the T picks up the duties. If the FW run isn’t direct to an external inspection chamber or is T’d into by another 110mm, eg underground, then the second ( internal ) means of rodding access will be a B-Regs requirement

I always asked the kitchen fitters to NOT fit ANYTHING plumbing related, and only to drill holes to get appliance hoses into the sink unit, and to put them up as high as practicable. One carpenter drilled holes for the electrical sockets at the very bottom of the unit ?. I asked him which way water drips if there’s a a leak, he remained silent. Great carpenter & kitchen fitter, shit at everything else. Fitted ballofix isolation valves behind the false backs and drilled ( very neat ) holes to put the screwdriver through to operate them. ?.