Nickfromwales

Will that satisfy BRegs? Extraction needs to extract.

You cut out that pipework at the right hand corner where you can get to it. Then you got that angled union. Then you dry cut and fit the replacement pipework, then solder it away from the boiler, refit, solder the fitting at the right hand corner and job done. C’mon, four fat snakes ??

Are you looking to DIY or are you going for SIPS so you can have it made and erected from the comfort of the pub bar? I’ve done a 6m x 3.6m timber frame man shed / home office and stick built it with 4x2 walls and 5x2 rafters. Racked internally with OSB3 and same for floor. Uninsulated metal profile roof ( 6.3m long, one piece sections so no joints ) and it was cheap as chips to put up. Plenty of budget left to have the remaining voids full filled with PIR vs paying for SIPs ( but I’ve not bothered as I’ll just make it draught-proof and live with the occasional running costs of a cheap £200 split ASHP I nabbed off gumtree a while back ) and then you could also fit insulated plasterboard internally to stave off cold bridging through the studs. You could also make the walls 5x2 and the roof 6x2 or even 7x2 to allow for more insulation, if you will spend a lot of winter in there? Deffo go for the split air-con, as in the summer it will be roasting in there. Mine is nigh on unbearable, so the split will be a lifesaver for me as I’ll be working on stuff as well as ‘at the desk’. So lazy boy or DIY? You can save some serious money with DIY.

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The timer module is a bolt on iirc, had to buy one when I bought an ICON for our WC. Alternative grille down facing and no ‘flap’

Just think if you want to have to have that window for ablutions, from a security POV and also a practical POV. If it’s p*ssing down with rain and blowing a hoolie then you’ll not want to have the stink blown into / through the house would you? Look for a fan with an auto shutter ( do NOT use a back-draft shuttered one as they chatter and clap on windy days plus they will allow heat out / cold air in 24/7 ), one good unit is an ICON. Not somewhere to save money imho.

Just to add, the reg also covers cables run above false ( suspended ) ceilings. These are the biggest risk as folk just keep adding behind those Willy-nilly until you end up with a cross between a spider web and a birds nest !!

Errrr, a petrol / diesel genny? Carbon monoxide works well indoors !!!

Using the PTFE cord I linked earlier, you use the reducing bush that’s already there, and swap the angled union from straight to angled. You just keep turning until you’re happy it’s wound in sufficiently, and stop when pointing in the right direction. It will be pointing back, not up, so he can reduced the amount of ‘poky-outy’ by cutting the existing final bend off and chopping in a new one behind / in line with the boiler Plenty of cord, plenty of pipe jointing goop to lubricate, and jobs a good’un. Don’t listen to him @Onoff, he’ll have you wearing a skirt next

We use powder coated all round band routinely, more to keep the main trunk runs neat and tidy than to comply with regs, and mostly in new builds with pozi joists. Regs see a mechanically fixed ( screwed ) and plastered plasterboard as 30mins fire rated and also as a means of satisfying the arrest of falling cables. AFAIK the reg exists only fir surface mounted wiring ( where the “containment” is plastic trunking / conduit ) and then you must employ metal clips at X intervals, to reinforce the use of plastic ones in between, and in trunking you fit a metal C clip before the cables go in, mechanically fixed ( screwed etc ), and then the clip is bent to grip the bunched cables before fitting the lid on. To drill through the top or centre of joists complies, and even under-slinging in the counter batten space complies ( if boarded over / PB mechanically fixed ). With pozi joists you can run through perpendicular and rely on the web spaces where the metal webs form a gusset to comply ( even if no PB is present ). The reg also only asks for this in areas deemed means of egress / escape, so can be filtered to suit. I prefer to see heavy ‘looms” banded regardless, and we fix all the bands at locations where the cables turn 90o or spur off from the main trunk runs, and again where we run parallel with the beams eg where noggins could suffice but the bands look neater, and then you are only dealing with one discipline too so easier than cutting and fitting timber IMO. For under-slinging as you suggest, I would just use plenty of the newer metal T/E clips to sleep easy. You’re going to have to clip so may as well use FR clips

Agree. But, to keep it ‘as is’ you can just get an angled compression 1”x28mm male union, so you’re exiting the boiler parallel. Never surrender.

All the older boilers had the options of left / right flow and return.

The bends ( sets) would be quite long so I reckon you'd be better off with fittings instead. Either will do, just make sure the old stuff is cleaned well before soldering.

If tight for room, have the M&F go into your vertically rising bend, and use a second M&F to rectify ( instead of the equal M&F ). Rotating from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock should take you from zero offset to a full pipe dia worth of offset.

From the outlet of the boiler union, use a bit of pipe, then a 45o equal bend with an M&F 45o bend directly into that, and have them ascending ( twist them ) until it's minted lamb. Then head across to the bend and up and away.

"If you don't ask, you don't get" Triton are a good company, hence the excellent after sales ( very after in your case ) service. What we call "a result". Now go have a wash please ...........

Taking the O/S taps off straight after the stopcock and before the primary PRedV will preserve the premium flow rates and will then make that available mains potential divisible between the house and the O/S taps. Best practice is to have them off the rising cold mains, BEFORE it even enters the house. Stealing that further downstream would have a much bigger impact on the flow available at the nearest outlets to where you’ve T’d off. Damn good idea. I’ve seen some folks mains peaking out at over 11 bar and things blowing up / off with catastrophic consequences. Set that to 4 bar, and then make sure the secondary one is STILL fitted at the UVC. The difference between them, the UVC one ( aka control group ) will be factory set at 3 bar, will need to be mitigated. You’ll need a single check NRV on the 22mm hot outlet of the UVC to stop back pressurisation of the UVC from the mixer taps / shower mixers etc. That is your cross to bear I’m afraid. I can only advise as to what you ‘should’ be doing, you can achieve what you can Are you trying to do as little disturbing of the property as possible? Tough nut to crack if so. You’re welcome !

I thought they might Happy days. My work here is done ✅ Bonjour!

My grandmother didn’t die in vein. I still have that hat boyo ? and you can’t go betting with it ok. ?✌️

Looks good ?

OK. Why is there a bathroom on hard and a bathroom / other stuff on soft? Why the pressure valve? I assume you mean PRedV ( pressure reducing valve ). One will come with, and need to be fitted to the UVC. That valve ( serviced by soft water ) will have a balanced cold outlet for soft feeds to all mixer taps, so would need to go to a soft cold manifold fed from the 'control group' at the UVC. The UVC must NOT be serviced after all the other cold feeds. It must have "cold mains priority" which means 22mm pipe feed from the cold mains direct to the UVC WITHOUT anything drawing off in between ( in an ideal world ). If this is being done from scratch then I would observe this discipline religiously. Outside taps should be outside off the rising cold mains, but if they have to be T'd off internally and taken through external walls then they need to be T'd in AFTER the stopcock, but BEFOFRE the 1st PRedV without exception. The above drawing needs to be scrapped sorry, loads of faux pas there. Ask questions, we'll answer them

Doesn't look 'novice' to me. Are you Tommy Walsh? C'mon.....fess up !!

Is it the Wedi stuff you've used? I've done a lot with that and never had a single failure. Good system with a whole family of complimenting products, but don't miss one out or you'll lose the warranty. ( Same with Impey ).

OK, so you've gone belt and 3 braces then Nice job ! Just lay an inch or so of clear CT1 where the shower screen wall profile hits the junction, and wipe any excess away with cheap baby wipes. Stops the water that lingers there becoming problematic, but in your instance is a mere insurance addition to the water-proofing that you've already observed. Pics would be nice if/when possible please.

Have you grouted the gap between the wall tile and the floor / tray etc? Silicone should reinforce that, not replace it. Also, have you siliconed the tray to the wall BEFORE fitting the shower screen, just where the screen profile sits?