Nickfromwales

I'd be very interested in how you modelled the 2 hour divide?

Deffo. I would get in touch with Vaillant directly if the noise persists. I'd say that is installer error for the most, in placement of the internal unit and execution of the install as a whole. It'll pick a few ears up if you kick off suitably, but politely. I doubt that you are very far away from a good install, just the company makes money by being "in and out" so I supect a little attention to detail has gone to the wayside. Approach the installers again and say the noise came back. Make it their problem not yours.

Lip service for most I'm afraid ( bloody expensive lip service too ).

I think you could just fill it in in crayon and they wouldn't give a shit in most instances.

Put his back out quite badly from what I gather, so is laid up.

So why not just connect radiators to the range and keep the oil install / tank / etc for the get-go? It's either start with a full brand new system or apply some duct tape and WD40 to what you already have to minimise the capital expenditure ( not so much good money now after bad ? ). Whatever flow and return pipework you install will be the same needed if / when you upgrade to whatever, but you seriously need to look at getting on the RHI scheme in some way ( achievable with the hybrid and you should max out at £12k over 7 years if you use the current EPC ) and go for a hybrid. During the periods heading into and out of the shoulder months the ASHP can provide heating at the unassisted temperatures, and then when it gets bitter the oil kicks in to help out. You are where you are with heating requirements, but with walls that thick I would look closely at the draught-proofing and triple glazing / good external doors, as infiltration will be your worst enemy IMO. Swap the extractor fans for ones with shutters, and yes, go mad in the attic with insulation!

When you're ready just bump this thread, and we'll go through it until you're sure of what to do and how to attack it.

Measure twice cut once ??

?

Oh, and don't forget that the RHI scheme dies off ( IIRC ) sometime in 2020. There is another scheme called "the heat-pump tariff" but I haven't had any details on that yet so google will be your friend.

https://www.grantuk.com/products/hybrids/ Something to think about. And;

Yup. Get the 'blobs' quite close to each other ( say 12 blobs for a 100mm x 1000mm tray for eg ) and you'll be good to go. 5mm is all you will need. A sealant tube nozzle can be hammered flat and used like a knife to get the goop in. I would use clear CT1 every time, but EverBuild StixAll Crystal Clear is the same stuff if you can buy that cheaper.

If you know nowt about ventilation then it's well worth it for that alone, plus your OH will get a fresh perspective including renewables. The courses there are quite comprehensive so time to teach the old dog new tricks

Yup, the old systems use gravity to an open F&E ( Feed and Expansion ) tank at the highest point of the system, so this could be in an airing cupboard also BUT it could also be topped up from what is called a "Primatic" hot water cylinder, which is a regular looking copper cylinder but it has a bellow / diaphragm inside it which allows water to be forced into the central heating 'loop'. That force is generated by the much larger CWS ( Cold Water Storage ) tank in the attic but you MUST NOT ADD INHIBITOR if the system is primatic. Locate the tank, or if no tank then check the type of cylinder and report back here ( with some pics if necessary ). If there are a pair of tanks, then the smaller will be the F&E, and you will need to check that this is full of water ( at least 1/3 to 1/2 full is norm but can be higher ) as sometimes the reason the rads need bleeding is that there is a blockage in the T where the F&E pipe connects to the system and that stops the system being automatically 'topped-up'. There is a lot to check before dabbling with an old system, so get clued up ( as you are doing here ) and then go at it. If all is good then bleed the rads one at a time, starting downstairs and work your way up ( if it's a 2-storey property ) so that will allow the system to regain its 'head' of pressure between bleed off's. Do this with the heating system switched off, but if you get no joy then try it again with the heating pump on and running with the rad valves all fully open. Beware, old rad valves do NOT like being opened and closed, and will likely leak a bit when you do so. Happy days !

......new thread alert....... "How to drill waste holes in walk on glazing panels".

Was more worried about rats / mice than insects TBH. And I assumed closed cell would be the weapon of choice, but I've no direct experience of the products, other than in a marine environment, so best the OP asks all the questions to the installer and that they get a warranty that reflects what they are told, re suitability and longevity. Have also seen it used on battered roofs with great results. I assume they will staple on some sort of fine nylon webbing / other to the underside of the joists to catch the liquid from falling down between them whilst the first lot expands / cures, so wondered if that may as well be a metal mesh first as last. Never seen one done in honesty so don't know exactly how they execute such an installation, maybe they just build it up in layers as the stuff does expand crazy quick. Anybody?

I never use PVA as it will reconstitute with water. Flexible tile primer is the norm. Yes, once in you can just jam the gun nozzle down the sides IF you have a gap to allow you to do so. Perhaps once the tray is 5mm or so away from its final resting place you could mask it up, nudge it far right and pump a load of sealant ( NOT SILICONE!!!! ) down the left side, then do vice versa, possibly the same bringing it forward so you can seal the rear, and then just centralise the tray and top up / wipe back sealant until it's all uniform and neat.

You won’t be setting the tray into notched adhesive, instead you’ll be resting it on piers of tile adhesive and just setting the tray down into those ( as the tray gets tapped / twisted south the adhesive will spread out and give much more coverage ). That will make life a lot easier if you insist on this being a one man job, and will give you quite a bit of play time to set it to the exact depth and level. After tapping down into place the tray will stay put, as long as the adhesive mix has no, or very little slump. When mixing, you push a stick into the mix and withdraw it, and the peak of the adhesive left should stay. The peak may fold over under its own weight but the mix should not return to being flat in the bucket.

A dangerous game, as that can cause the tray to crack later down the line. There should be no single point of contact between the substrate and the tray.

Mapei or Ultra. Both will do the job

Hi Edward. The guys on here are striving to get the best solution, so they answer according to that ethos You're not doing anything "wrong" just there are ways to go about this which will yield better results. Infiltration will be the killer here, so you really need to stop the focus on insulation and look closely at draught-proofing, against the ventilation heat losses you will have with the cold ventilated void, and then you wont have to be so critical when the insulation dilemma gets decided. Spray foam is a good way to address both issues, as long as the detailing is correct, so you need to ask the difference between open and closed cell foam and where they should be employed to make sure the timbers don't end up sweating. Ask about insect and vermin barriers also, as insulation is a friend of the tunnel bunnies.

Apparently there's a company in Kent now offering speedy turnkey wetroom installations......................................................

OK. So, in this instance what you do is make nice pyramids of quite stodgy tile adhesive ( slow set !! ) and have then about 50mm higer than you need the tray to be. Then you slide the tray out on battens, or lower it from the front onto short battens near you ( there so you don't lose your fingertips when the heavy slippy tray gets the better of you ) and just let the adhesive squish out as you rubber mallet the thing into the position you want. Lots and lots of small taps, and never in the same spot more than twice, and gravity will go from your enemy to your friend as the tray heads south to its final resting place. Sort the waste out after its gone off, and plug the missing block with expanding foam. Then you just mix 2-part self leveller and pour it into the void around the blobs of tile adhesive under the tray and let it fill up as much as you can underneath. What could be easier?!?

He's screwed....lets just delete the thread and pretend he never asked