Nickfromwales

Have the loops all been fully purged with cold mains water at full wallop to blast them clear of all trapped air? If this has not been done properly you’ll never get proper flow. Running the manifold with the automatic air vent as a means to remove trapped air is no good whatsoever as the flow rates are extremely low and absolutely will not get the air locks out.

The switch offers those with vaulted ceilings an easy option for test and hush, but I am routinely installing them now on both the first and second floors near sleeping quarters. The locate function actually silences all the detectors EXCEPT the one that has been activated. That is vital in a home where detectors are in several locations including plant spaces / compartments where the smoke could be concealed for some time. The new wired range ( I believe ) will support the wireless locate / test / hush switch. That opens up options for where to locate these, strategically, after moving in or to be able to move them around / add more retrospectively.

Deffo. Switching off the breakers in the CU which feed any 'danger' loads is necessary diligence to prevent inadvertent switch-ons, by a 3rd party for eg.

1. You categorically cannot ditch the thermostatic mixing valves on the manifolds. How else do you intend creating different temps for the differing disciplines?? 2. Different circuits on the boiler? Different ccts will only be fed with the designated flow temp. 3. Good luck with making that work with an emitter that takes a long time to get the rooms up to temp. Honestly. 4. You would need room stats for all zones from the get-go, and these are not optional. This point makes no sense whatsoever, sorry.

75mm minimum, 100mm better. Box ( surround ) all waste pipes with the same as well as you can.

I've never seen less than 75mm installed on domestic B-Regs installs. I usually spec 100mm acoustic with soil / waste pipes 'boxed in' to eliminate the noise of water flowing. I would not want 25mm in my house tbh, and didn't even know this could be bought at 25mm!!

This will do what you want, 100%. There is no need for it to be slotted as it has two parts which do not meet, creating a gap for the overflow to drain into. This will be dependant on the depth of the porcelain so a simple exercise of measuring the item out of the box, then dry assembled, and then installed, will assure you the two parts have not met and the drainage gap / 'slot' still exists. Expensive, but niche products always are

It's a temporary rig!! It's fine.

I got dragged over the coals here for doing that, so this needs connecting to a 16a supply via a 20amp DP switch with immediate effect. DO NOT leave it running on a 13a plug and an extension lead!!! That's a recipe for an electrical fire. Switch this off until you can rectify this. Have you adjusted the Willis heater stat to minimum?

Not. The first will emit the majority of the heat, with the second only having the residual heat to use. Connect in parallel, each with their own TRV

If you could get 3-ph electric then the Steibel Eltron 27kW ( 3x9 ) instant water heater is a very good bit of kit. Rated to fill a bath, and I’ve witnessed it running a shower and it’s very very good. Compare that to the same unit in single phase, and I can piss faster than it. Totally useless. Also, if you go for a huge electric shower, and decent instantaneous water heater, the cold mains will not be sufficient to run both at full capacity. You’ll end up using the shower on full power only if nobody else in the dwelling so much as opens a tap to fill the kettle. They’re HUGELY cold mains dependant so if you do go for an all instantaneous solution, expect to be fitting a ~200L cold mains accumulator to support the cold mains flow rates needed for reliable operation. Furthermore, factor in for much poorer performance in the winter, where the cold mains water is much colder……

Only where there is vibration, or risk of other considerable or sustained local movement. Soldered is perfectly fine for a static residential gas run, regardless of which family of gas is being transported.

+1 on not bothering with WC’p in a well insulated, low energy dwelling. The house heating system and thermal time constant just cannot adjust linear to that being sensed from outside. I have it going on atm with a very high-spec Steibel Elton ASHP ( aiming for a CoP of 6 ) but will likely have to make WC’p defunct after commissioning as I expect it won’t cope with a PH. In a nutshell, yes, but you should set the flow temp just a bit higher if there is to be a buffer or low loss header. I have just been called to retrospectively adapt an identical setup to yours, and I installed a 50L wall mounted buffer tank which was used as an energy buffer, to absorb the heat from a single heat cycle eg to stave off short-cycling. Quick and easy job.

Where each screw head pops, clean the cross out of the screw and see if the screw can be tightened. If so, it’s a case of the fixing not having been driven home properly during the installation of the boards. I’ve done turnkey projects on both timber frame ( which have all gotten soaking wet at some stage ) and ICF builds, and none have had any more than the obligatory 2 or 3 screw heads pop. 16 is indicative of the board screws having not been driven fully home. FYI, it’s pointless fist filling over these, as the pops are caused by movement. Either tighten the screw before filling, or take it out and re set the screw 25mm away from where it can out to get a nice fresh bit of purchase.

Your accountant ?

The minority shall not create any detriment to the majority. This is an open forum for sharing information and advice for a crowd far bigger than 1. Rest assured, you’ll go unanswered by myself from here. ?. ”Focker, out”.

Mine is 6 devices with 100gb shared. Topping up if you run out is not done at a sympathetic rate…..

Yup. Then see the inclusive data disappear at eye-watering cost to replace. You’re gotten by the bollaux either way ?

We just forget how few trinkets we need to “survive” aka live perfectly well. Fitted a few USB sockets in mine on the weekend, WiFi had to go off for about 30 mins. I was lucky to have escaped with my life

"Load shedding" ( usually via a heavy current changeover relay ) https://searchdatacenter.techtarget.com/definition/load-shedding

Its still pretty good as it can be assumed that, with the correct set points on the buffer stat, the return temp to the ASHP would never be 'cold'. I think I am a fan of letting the ASHP run 'long and low', eg matching output to actual requirement in real time.

I've apologised once, lets leave it there OK?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283804621436?epid=1155212630&hash=item421412da7c:g:pGoAAOSwu~ReYAxN

Nope. PV output will be linear to the amount of sunlight hitting it at any one time. That cannot be controlled. Where the electricity goes is also not under your control, as anything consuming power when the PV is producing will take an equal share. Producing electricity via PV offsets the amount of paid-for grid electricity you import, and the only part of PV you can 'direct' at a load is when you have surplus energy AFTER the house CU has taken its fill, and then there is energy trying to export back to the grid. That can be harvested by utilising a diversion controller to manage the excess to an assigned 'dump load', such as heating a hot water cylinder. The electricity produced by the PV will inject, via a dedicated MCB, into the consumer unit for general use. The output, aka generation, from the PV will push or pull on the grid connection and that offers a position where import and export can be identified. That is where your CT clamp MUST be installed. If you fit the CT clamp on the supply plug of the load then electricity is only ever 'seen' flowing towards the load, which is then recognised as imported energy. The clamp would never know when you are producing more than your base load there as it would not be able to register electricity flowing in the 'opposite direction'. That can only be done at the meter itself or at a strategic position on the meter tails, eg immediately upstream ( this can be at the main switch in the CU if that is easier than getting to the meter, providing you only have one CU ). I would agree that anything less than a couple of kWp would not be an economical investment, when considering time / labour / economy of scale.

Power over Ethernet ( PoE ) will do 100m. Can you run a Cat6 SWA? Can be surface mount if you don't want to dig.