Nickfromwales

Also note the additional shoulder of stacked vertical timbers taking the downward forces at the ends of the lintels . A very important detail. 3 a side in one of the pics. If it were my house, it would be steel without hesitation. That can sit atop the same shoulder of timber uprights, so only very minimal uplift in cost, but belt and 15 braces if flying over large sliders.

Additional mini CU in there for outbuilding and EV car charger point. No issues there whatsoever, fill your boots. That's a double-pole Henley block in that pic, and great for instances where every ounce of space is precious. They've been around for years, and I'm a fan of them as bunches of single pole ones take up lots of footprint / space. Look how neat that is with the double pole one Bingo bango.

They come with a group controller you address to all of the windows. That unit can, for one example, 'crack open' all of the windows if a certain set temperature is exceeded, eg for purging heat. That has buttons on it for group open / group close, as well as each window having its own dedicated controller. Any hint of rain, and they shut automatically. I'm unsure of the compatibility with an App etc as these are not wifi units, but a quick call to Velux tech gurus would clear all this up in an instant. I was very impressed by them tbh, and I thought the cost was extremely good value for money.

I think you're interpreting the drawings too literally. There may well be 4 rising SVP's, but nothing stopping each of those, or just 3 of those from being terminated inside the dwelling with AAV's. You can have a strategic SVP to form the stench pipe ( open to atmosphere ) outside the property rising from the foul network up the outside to ridge height on a gable or just above soffit height on the other elevations. If you are on a terrace of houses or a street where you can demonstrate the neighbouring properties already vent the sewer to atmosphere, you could even petition the BCO to do away with a stench pipe altogether. The term SVP means network 110mm pipe runs in general, so it doesn't automatically become a pipe rising to atmosphere through the fabric of the dwelling

That’s out of date info Modern panel manufacturers are on top of that, plus the in-roof trays allow for quite a bit of convection airflow. They’re open top and bottom / side to side. Very little to argue over there imho and that from being on roofs fitting them 1st hand.

Ask @Russell griffiths iirc he has a range of waterproof curling tongs and shower resistant buttock hair removal devices coming soon. He fitted a plug in his sink, a 13a plug no less.

Lay strips of 15mm / 18mm ply over, or change the depth of the vertical battens to bring them out past the cement board and render? Somethings got to give?

Fix a cement board to it and render over?

Yup. Thank FCUK ???

I looked at that one from Amazon. For £105 it’s nigh-on disposable, so if it lasts beyond one job it’s paid for itself 5 -10 fold in labour saving alone. I wanted to fit wood cutting blades into it for the 2 wood-crete ICF projects I’m doing atm, but I couldn’t find blades to match the bore and outside diameters of the cheap machines. Annoyingly the more expensive ‘recognised’ brands don’t do a stacked blade arrangement, just two parallel blades, so the search continues……..

Adding a multipoint such as the Ariston would cost a good few hundred quid. Stick with the combi, and relocate it as central to the hot water outlets as practicable.

Mine too, but the wife does nothing but pick holes in it ?

The last pic looks like when that naughty Gremlin jumped into the swimming baths.

If you turn the hot tap then you’re telling the boiler you want hot water ?!? Of course it’s going to fire up. It’s an instantaneous hot water heater so it’s doing exactly what it’s supposed to do. If that upsets you, open the cold tap There are negligible inefficiencies in that cycling as that’s what a combi is designed to do for its working life, eg supply hot water on demand, when there is demand, and for however long it’s demanded for. Changing to a cylinder will give you far greater losses as you’ll be heating a 210-250 L cylinder, at least twice a day, and the latent / standing losses of that will be much higher than the whiff of gas used when firing a combi sporadically for small / frequent pockets of hot water. The burner in the combi only lights ( consumes gas ) for the period of time that the tap is open. It runs on ( pump only) after that to rid the primary heat exchanger of the residual nuisance high grade heat that is left behind ( so the boiler doesn’t kettle ) and that only uses a tiny amount of electricity for a minute or so. Only change to a cylinder if you require more DHW, but for your situation you’d need a minimum of 210L of stored water, heated on demand. The boiler would fire sporadically to keep that topped up after an initial heat up cycle, for however long the timer is set to do so.

Approximately x number of pieces of string

If the quality is there on the workmanship then that sound fine to me. Self builders can be a dangerous bunch wrapping themselves up with day rates and “what could I get it done for” / “how much more discount can we push this for” etc and the honest answer at that stage is buyer beware. Paying a reasonable sum for a good job is value for money. Read some of the horror stories about poor installations and the cost of retrospective repairs and consider what you feel is important.

Birth defect, apparently.

For completeness, on a previous project, the above information was sense checked with Telford UK, which I then executed. Subsequently, I then employed one of Telford's appointed G3 representatives to inspect and commission for G3 sign off, which was instantly granted upon inspection and with flying colours.

Exacta-mundo, squire. Both PRedV's need to be the same bar value ( eg 3bar a piece / 3.5bar a piece etc ). That makes a retrospectively balanced UVC installation G3 compliant by preventing back-pressurisation of the cylinder in the event of the secondary PRedV ever failing. A lot of plumbers don't have much of a clue of these solutions and just read instruction books on the day. If it doesn't look like the instructions, then it's an automatic 'fail'.... There's always a solution, you just have to get off your arse and go look for it.

Sounds like a lame response without a solution To ‘balance’ the system retrospectively requires two things. 1) add a secondary pressure reducing valve at the cold mains stopcock. 2) fit a 22mm non return ( single check ) valve on the hot water outlet of the UVC. That’s what he should have said to you…….and then he could happily have fitted the chuffing EV to resolve all issues in one morning.

Builders feelings set aside, what is the level of the invert at the road to where you need to discharge from? You’re appliances can discharge up high, like 600mm off finished floor level. Can’t they then just meet a spur off the existing drains?

“Luke……I am your farter” ?